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Discussion Starter #1
I had a 2002 EDGE-X 800 that was EXTREMELY WELL dialed in for a "Stocker" 6400+ MILES RIDDEN, NEVER BURNED IT DOWN, NEVER BROKE.WALKED away from my (3) other buddy's 800's BIG TIME !!


BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

HOLTZMANN ATAAC FUEL COMPENSATOR, spot on jetting ALL the time $ 245.00 from www.holtzmannengineering.com mileage increased from 10.5 m.p.g. to approx 13 m.p.g. noticeably more responsive on bottom end and mid-range.

SLP HI-Comp heads, for use with 91 octane ($330) improved bottom end & mid-range GRUNT!!

STUDS: I ran (168) WOODY's Megabite square tip studs in the track, traction is where it's at, all the power/clutching in the world is useless if you're not coupled to the ground.



almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH
:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR
b) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's

4) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.



SECONDARY

Button Secondary


1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

2) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring with R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)

3) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each


Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90

3) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4


The old style button clutch was faster on top end



BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.

2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080


ENGINE LIMITERS

1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)

2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)

1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this! Look at the PRO-X section @ the top, there's a "sticky". All the info is there.

2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers

3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.




CHAIN-CASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION

1), Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"


EXHAUST VALVES

1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"

3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.

4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring, it's only enough parts for one cylinder



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.



COLD START TIP

On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



DEBATABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign

3) Boost bottles

4) 8" rear wheels

5) Anti-ratchet drive wheels


HAVE A GREAT SEASON!!!!!!!!!
 

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awesome! Thanks for the info. Printing it out now
 

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PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR
b) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's

4) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.[/b]
Great stuff Kraven. One Question tho. I am getting a new Primary this winter from a dealer. A brand new one. Do they come balanced? Or should I just get a rebuilt clutch and have someone balance it for me? I just had a new crank put in 500 miles ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great stuff Kraven. One Question tho. I am getting a new Primary this winter from a dealer. A brand new one. Do they come balanced? Or should I just get a rebuilt clutch and have someone balance it for me? I just had a new crank put in 500 miles ago.[/b]
The clutches are balanced from POLARIS, just like they are on the sleds.

Problem is they're not perfect.

Every "Factory balanced" POLARIS clutch that I've sent out has been re-balanced, with lightening holes drilled into it.

Contact Don (XCR 1250) here on H.C.S. and he'll take care of the clutch balancing for you
 

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i have read on here 7800 for 800's

what should my 02 800 run at
144in track 23/40 gearing stock motor

clutching ideas i want a low engagement
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i have read on here 7800 for 800's

what should my 02 800 run at
144in track 23/40 gearing stock motor

clutching ideas i want a low engagement[/b]
Ray,

7700-7800 R.P.M. is the max h.p. # on the dyno, as a general rule you want to run approx 200 r.p.m. higher in the real world, so 7900-8000 r.p.m is what I would target.

The spring (Almond/red) & weight combo that's posted at the top is a relatively lower trail friendly engagement.

I typically do hard trail riding, I need it to be reliable and trail friendly, and yeah, it's gotta be faster that my bud's with the identical sled.
 

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Quick question. How come if you think reeds are a waste of money why do all of your past sleds have them?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick question. How come if you think reeds are a waste of money why do all of your past sleds have them?[/b]

Guilty as charged,

In the never ending quest for a slight improvement and to still pass it off as stock.

As stated, there is a very slight improvement in response, just not worth the $258

If money is no object and you're willing to accept minimal gain for $258, go for it.

Note the title BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK AND FREE MODS
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #14
Would the clutching be the same too? Or whats the best set up for a 700 if it's not the same.[/b]
NO on the clutch weights, spring and helix

P.M. POCKETS for that
 

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I would like to mention that on the secondary clutch for replacement buttons is to get the brown Polaris buttons (not the black ones) I went through 3 sets of the black one's with in 600 miles.
 

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[another question i have a 02 800 but with the m10 and cant get it too hook 144 decent studs not new 1 or lil more lug do you think if i put a new deep lug track on and all studs be better i have been doing research non stop and most ppl say you might hook a lil better with that but still no weight transfer can anyone help with this issue iv done the work to the skid in trying and but always fail thanks
 

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SLP HI-Comp heads, for use with 91 octane ($330) improved bottom end & mid-range GRUNT!!

PRIMARY CLUTCH[/b]:
3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR

Button Secondary[/b]
2) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring with R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)
3) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each

I just would like to say just I had an EPI Agressive trail clutch kit in my 02 800 X-Edge with SLP HI-comp heads Jetted with 460 jets my sled performed well in it's class but not good enough for me it was leaving most other 800 twins in the dust in my area But my main problem was loosing rpms from take off to 40mph it would be around 8000rpms then drop down to 7700-7600 rpms.
So I tried KRAVEN'S Clutch set up ALMOND/RED stripe spring (Primary) I used 10-64 polaris weights, for the Primary, BLUE secondary spring with R49 Helix, Now my sled cranks 8000-8100 rpms and holds the rpms (VERY CONSISTANT) WITH THIS SET UP I GAINED APPROX 4+ MPH IN A 800FT RADAR RUN

(Best Bang For The Buck IMO) Polaris items where cheaper than other aftermarket Clutch Setup's

Thanks Kraven for the advice!!
jaiken,
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oil pump ratio & adjustment

how do you know what the oil pump calibration ratio is?
i know there are marks to line up at W.O.T.......
You have to check it out on the trail, after you align the marks as a STARTING POINT.

40:1 is 1 quart of oil to 10 gallons of fuel.

58:1 is 22 ounces of oil to 10 gallons of fuel
 
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