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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
pulled the clutches today on my 05 rmk 6.primary off cleaned up and spring change, all good.\

pulled secondary to do the same, and those dam brass screws that hold on the helix were on way hard and stripped every one of em.

any tricks to break these free or am i drilling all these bastards out now?lol

also, might just buy a used secondary,, of a 05 edge rmk 800.

helix on the 6 , 56-42-36 er

helix in the 8 , 58-42-36 er.

that extra 2 degrees on the start angle going to run ok or will it slow it down off the start much much?

thanks,

zr8
 

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2005 polaris 700 XC-SP F/O & 1980 Polaris TX-L
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Take a small chisel and hammer.make a nice groove in one spot of each bolt head.Then use a flat head screw driver, and hammer and tap them loose. Using a bit of heat on the bolt heads will help break the lock tite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Take a small chisel and hammer.make a nice groove in one spot of each bolt head.Then use a flat head screw driver, and hammer and tap them loose. Using a bit of heat on the bolt heads will help break the lock tite.
Take a small chisel and hammer.make a nice groove in one spot of each bolt head.Then use a flat head screw driver, and hammer and tap them loose. Using a bit of heat on the bolt heads will help break the lock tite.

thank you sir.im going to do just that.
 

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20 850 Assault and 21 Indy XC 650 137
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You need to heat them to loosen the loctite. Then they usually come out, but yours are stripped. So chisel it is!

As far as clutches go you could look for a TSS 04 with the straight bore and 1/4" key. Lots more helix options and much lighter clutch. Tooslow will tell you to get a tied clutch lol.

As far as angle the 58 will make the initial up shift a little more aggressive, but most of the helix is still the same 42 degrees.
 

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You need to heat them up the first time they break loose. I swear polaris has a blue loctite pipeline to the assembly line lol. Heat and an impact torx bit. Buy the screws from a newer sled. Yours are T-25, and the newer ones use a T-27. Same screw size, just bigger bit.

If your going for a different secondary use a TSS-04 keyed secondary. Any of the IQRs use a keyed tss04 secondary. You'll have to use a key from a iqr too. You'll have to cut the key from the iqr down a bit. No big deal.

You'll save one pound of rotating weight. You'll use the same helix angle, you'll get the same effect. So if you know of a good tss98 setup, use the same for the tss04, no tuning needed. And from venom racing you can usually get a non custom helix angle for 99 bucks instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
productive afternoon. cluthes were black.clutch area on the sled black .couldnt tell there was metal in there.

i dont get how people can own these things for years and just neglect everything like that.

fresh polaris black / red/ and delrin under and inside the cup for the secondary , fresh team almond 165/327 for the primary and 10-64s. .

so i got the gears done 21/42 74 pitch. mains 400. carbontech reeds in. fuel screws in 1/8th from stock to account for the reeds. ves completely rebuilt. tachometer getting calibrated. gonna set tps next, then its cut the 2 inch paddle down to 1.4 , do the bearings in the skid, driveshaft bearings , hyfax , grease the bitch up then wait on my rematch with my buddy who got my old 05' xc 600. lol . he took this new to my pooch 2 out of 3 last winter. its a matter of pride now.my first rmk 05' 600 used to eat that same xc alive everytime, and it hasnt been touched since i sold it,still set up the way i had it. trying to get this thing to perform more like that then the 83 mph pooch it was last year when i picked it up.

love a little friendly competition. I think if i get this right i should be able to turn the tide.she was loading up abit last year but i think i got that solved.
 

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pulled the clutches today on my 05 rmk 6.primary off cleaned up and spring change, all good.\

pulled secondary to do the same, and those dam brass screws that hold on the helix were on way hard and stripped every one of em.

any tricks to break these free or am i drilling all these bastards out now?lol

also, might just buy a used secondary,, of a 05 edge rmk 800.

helix on the 6 , 56-42-36 er

helix in the 8 , 58-42-36 er.

that extra 2 degrees on the start angle going to run ok or will it slow it down off the start much much?

thanks,

zr8
They are steel, just look like brass. Try a magnet to verify.
 

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pulled the clutches today on my 05 rmk 6.primary off cleaned up and spring change, all good.\

pulled secondary to do the same, and those dam brass screws that hold on the helix were on way hard and stripped every one of em.

any tricks to break these free or am i drilling all these bastards out now?lol

also, might just buy a used secondary,, of a 05 edge rmk 800.

helix on the 6 , 56-42-36 er

helix in the 8 , 58-42-36 er.

that extra 2 degrees on the start angle going to run ok or will it slow it down off the start much much?

thanks,

zr8
Get a good hot air gun or a propane torch and apply some heat to each bolt. They will come right out. If really stubborn usually an impact torx driver will do the job for sure. 58/42 .36 is what the 600 50th runs. Should be no issue to run this unless your already experiencing a lot of spinning when you launch your sled.
 

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productive afternoon. cluthes were black.clutch area on the sled black .couldnt tell there was metal in there.

i dont get how people can own these things for years and just neglect everything like that.

fresh polaris black / red/ and delrin under and inside the cup for the secondary , fresh team almond 165/327 for the primary and 10-64s. .

so i got the gears done 21/42 74 pitch. mains 400. carbontech reeds in. fuel screws in 1/8th from stock to account for the reeds. ves completely rebuilt. tachometer getting calibrated. gonna set tps next, then its cut the 2 inch paddle down to 1.4 , do the bearings in the skid, driveshaft bearings , hyfax , grease the bitch up then wait on my rematch with my buddy who got my old 05' xc 600. lol . he took his new to my pooch 2 out of 3 last winter. its a matter of pride now.my first rmk 05' 600 used to eat that same xc alive everytime, and it hasnt been touched since i sold it,still set up the way i had it. trying to get this thing to perform more like that then the 83 mph pooch it was last year when i picked it up.

love a little friendly competition. I think if i get this right i should be able to turn the tide.she was loading up abit last year but i think i got that solved.
Kind of hard to expect any 2 stroke sled thats got high mileage to be as sharp as one with under 5k miles....at least not without lot of work.
 

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You need to heat them up the first time they break loose. I swear polaris has a blue loctite pipeline to the assembly line lol. Heat and an impact torx bit. Buy the screws from a newer sled. Yours are T-25, and the newer ones use a T-27. Same screw size, just bigger bit.

If your going for a different secondary use a TSS-04 keyed secondary. Any of the IQRs use a keyed tss04 secondary. You'll have to use a key from a iqr too. You'll have to cut the key from the iqr down a bit. No big deal.

You'll save one pound of rotating weight. You'll use the same helix angle, you'll get the same effect. So if you know of a good tss98 setup, use the same for the tss04, no tuning needed. And from venom racing you can usually get a non custom helix angle for 99 bucks instead.
A tied is an even better secondary. It gets rid of all the issues these rollers inherently have. I run one on my 600 50th. Its roughly 3 sleds faster in a 1000' compared to the tss-98 stocker. Rmk 600 likely will need some variation of the clutch setup i use in mine. Once you dial it in, this clutch will make you smile. Sled needs to be studded though, so when you make a change its easier to tell where you need to go. This clutch does not act the same way as any of those other rollers when tuning.
 

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A tied is an even better secondary. It gets rid of all the issues these rollers inherently have. I run one on my 600 50th. Its roughly 3 sleds faster in a 1000' compared to the tss-98 stocker. Rmk 600 likely will need some variation of the clutch setup i use in mine. Once you dial it in, this clutch will make you smile. Sled needs to be studded though, so when you make a change its easier to tell where you need to go. This clutch does not act the same way as any of those other rollers when tuning.
Once its dialed in is the key word. You need multiple helixes and springs to dial it in. Not everyone has time or want to spend the money to do that. I know its a better clutch. But if someone has a good setup but their 98 is toasted. The 04 is an easier swap. If a guy has time to dial it in. I agree a tied is a better clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Kind of hard to expect any 2 stroke sled thats got high mileage to be as sharp as one with under 5k miles....at least not without lot of work.
my rmk was near this one in mileage. she was ovefueled abit and clutchs were rotten so im hoping with the frshen up itll come to life.reeds weren't closing all the way on one side, tps may or may not be off abit , and who knows what kinda state the skid bearings are in. that and .6 of an inch off the height definitely should allow for a few more mph.a 2 inch lug 144 long is alot of track for a tired 600. i got a feeling im taking him come next season.

i got a video of the races last year to compare to.these will also be recorded..his sled will be the same , untouched. hes a noobie to sleds. id have him and then on the end hed walk by on 660 maybe 100 feet from the end if that. he had the better lane to to be fair.mine had a few yes maims' at the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You need to heat them to loosen the loctite. Then they usually come out, but yours are stripped. So chisel it is!

As far as clutches go you could look for a TSS 04 with the straight bore and 1/4" key. Lots more helix options and much lighter clutch. Tooslow will tell you to get a tied clutch lol.

As far as angle the 58 will make the initial up shift a little more aggressive, but most of the helix is still the same 42 degrees.
got em out after. 6 were able to get out and are still useable.2 are toast. this is why i like to do this stuff now in the summer. no rush for parts. had to order a new fuel filter for the d7 anyway , so 2 birds stoned at once.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You need to heat them up the first time they break loose. I swear polaris has a blue loctite pipeline to the assembly line lol. Heat and an impact torx bit. Buy the screws from a newer sled. Yours are T-25, and the newer ones use a T-27. Same screw size, just bigger bit.

If your going for a different secondary use a TSS-04 keyed secondary. Any of the IQRs use a keyed tss04 secondary. You'll have to use a key from a iqr too. You'll have to cut the key from the iqr down a bit. No big deal.

You'll save one pound of rotating weight. You'll use the same helix angle, you'll get the same effect. So if you know of a good tss98 setup, use the same for the tss04, no tuning needed. And from venom racing you can usually get a non custom helix angle for 99 bucks instead.
yep, the tss04 is whats on my d7.4 bolt helix vs the 8 on the 98' on my rmk. it is a noticeably lighter clutch. but eh, i got the 98 back together with fresh innards so ill run her this season anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They are steel, just look like brass. Try a magnet to verify.
they seem solt.i just assumed there brass based on that. either way, they suck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I told you tooslow will recommend the tied clutch lol 😂
im familar with the legendary tails of the too slow tied. lol.

i wouldnt mind getting one , just dont want the hassle trying to set it up correctly for what im trying to do.

and what im trying to do , is avenge a friendly drag race next winter with my buddys xc lol
 
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