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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When i was putting the skid back on my sled a week ago, i noticed that where the front axel bolts into the tunnel, there are actually 6 holes to chose from... they all have the steel backing plate, but small, black plugs covering the holes. The rear axels dont have another adjustment hole that i am aware of, but is it possible to drill a hole lower on the tunnel to get extra height on the back half of the sled??? I am a skilled welder and i can weld aluminum, just curious to see if this idea will work. If not, is there any way to fab up a "lift kit" so to speak? I'll take pics tomarrow when my camera is charged for better clarification.

Thanks!
:beerchug:
 

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as long as the front and rear mounting points stay the same distance apart as stock, yes you can move them. if you just want a little added height at the rear bumper, drill the rear mounts 1" lower. that should bring it up at least 2" at the bumper.
 

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The lower you put your front mounts the higher the approach angle the track has. Might want to be careful how high you go with this. I dont think anything is ever gained by making the anlge more intense. Im pretty sure you would lose track speed, and also trench easier in deep snow. Not sure, but im pretty sure
 

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There was a company MLM that used to sell a ''long legs kit''to convert the 8'' fastrack skid to( 13.5? or something like that) give you more sus. travel They used to advertise in all the sled mags not sure if they still do :dunno: Maybe someone on here knows more about it
 

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Some of the Polaris Indy's used to come with a bracket that extended below the bottom of the tunnel and foot rail with a hole in it that you could bolt your suspension to. I could just never think of any good reason to do it (positive gain) for me. The book said it was for deep snow riding only to help get the foot rails out of the snow.

You won't gain any suspension travel or ride improvement simply by raising the back-end.
 

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I rode an Indy 500 last winter that had the rear cross shaft in the lower hole that is below the tunnel. The result was; excellent steering with plenty of darting, lots of track spin, and a nice rear end "kick" over bumps. I moved the cross shaft back up to the stock position and all of it's bad habits went away. The point is that it only takes a little change in suspension geometry to make a difference. What exactly are you trying to change about your sled? Just get the ass high "look", with no regard for performance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some of the Polaris Indy's used to come with a bracket that extended below the bottom of the tunnel and foot rail with a hole in it that you could bolt your suspension to. I could just never think of any good reason to do it (positive gain) for me. The book said it was for deep snow riding only to help get the foot rails out of the snow.

You won't gain any suspension travel or ride improvement simply by raising the back-end.[/b]
Im not looking to gain anything, but my sled sits almost TOO low. I just wanted to know if it would give me a little extra clearance. :beerchug:

What exactly are you trying to change about your sled? Just get the ass high "look", with no regard for performance?[/b]
Absolutely not :banghead: I just want a little extra clearance, thats all.
 

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we count on people to have a trail groomer here and there it helps smooth things out till the real groomer gets there.lol. i herd it make know diff. but you would need some kind of sold bracket to bolt into. i was going to try the same thing with a old sled i had. i just got a new one instead. but it's worth a try.
 

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I did this to my machine about 2 weeks ago. It does handle completely different, not necessarily bad though. It seems to go through more snow, but also feels a little more top heavy in the turns. It's a compromise. I'm still playing around with suspension, so I'm not done yet. But on my ZL, there is a drop bracket below the running boards already. Drill out the holes in the front and drop the skid, it takes like 10 min. Change it back if you don't like it. I think mine will stay dropped, but we do alot more deep powder, off trail riding than we do groomed trails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did this to my machine about 2 weeks ago. It does handle completely different, not necessarily bad though. It seems to go through more snow, but also feels a little more top heavy in the turns. It's a compromise. I'm still playing around with suspension, so I'm not done yet. But on my ZL, there is a drop bracket below the running boards already. Drill out the holes in the front and drop the skid, it takes like 10 min. Change it back if you don't like it. I think mine will stay dropped, but we do alot more deep powder, off trail riding than we do groomed trails.[/b]
Thanks for the input, ill se what mother nature brings us for snow before i change anything though :beerchug:

hey MLM, why do you want the clearance - are you putting on a deeper lug track, or studs getting too close for comfort?
:beer2:[/b]
Already have a deeper lug track on it, and its a little close. Mainly i wanted it for a little extra clearance for the deep powder, but i wont mess with it now. :beerchug:
 

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Try it and learn something :beer2: I put an sc10 on my old doo and had issues with inside ski lift but the ride was excellent. If I could have gotten more travel out of the front suspension all would have been fine. Then I got a different set of mounting point measurements and redrilled the rear mounts so that the rear of the sled was now raised up. Now I have beter steering, no inside ski lift, but it does have darting issues and much less clearance in the front.

Good luck MLM
 
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