[rob]

well it was such a nice day I just had to pull the F7 off the trailer and check it out.. Everything looks good after the trip last week.. One hint I should point out.... Check tension on the front suspension mounting bolts..The ones right by your feet. These bolts are a little short and don't seem to want to stay tight. They just barely catch the nylock nuts. A word to the wise here.. Check these before your next ride! Same goes for the little bolts that hold the slide rod ends on. Same deal, but once you tighten them they seem to stay tight.

OK, so I put the coupling blocks to #3 (highest setting), and also I pulled up the limiter straps one hole (to the middle hole on the strap). Then I took it for a ride. Differences? Well it really made a big change. Cuts the ski lift down to a minimum. Almost too much. I was just getting used to the mega transfer, and this cuts it down considerably. I'm not positive that I will leave it this way, but I will for a while at least to get used to it and give it a chance. But for anyone that hates the transfer and ski lift on the firecat as it comes from the factory, this is a setup to try. One thing for sure...this sled sure is sensitive to adjustments. A little goes a long way. There is a lot you can do to tune this suspension to your own tastes.. so don't just leave it as it was delivered to you... make a few changes and see how you like it. One thing about stuff like this, it's fun and it don't cost a cent!

Here's a picture I just took.. I think it sits a little lower now.. what do you think?

 

[gatsledder61]

Rob - I think you posted your picture just to make us midwesterners jealous. Look at that snow!
Question, what do you think made the most significant difference on the ski lift, the coupling block or the straps. I would guess the straps would not have much effect on ski lift, but that's just a guess.
Having ridden Polaris my whole carrer, and pushing through corners while my cat buddies cut inside on the sharp twisties, I'd really like to enjoy the benifits of the A arm and coupled rear suspension. Perhaps I'm using too much "Polaris think" setting up my F5 with standard suspension. I adjusted the the front shock spring to a minimun setting, front shock spring the same (which really lowered the sled) and pulled the limiter straps down about 2". Top end speed not as important to me as handling.
What do you think?
By the way, this is the most involved I've ever been in sled set up, and it's all due to your excellant forum. Thanks for all the help.
Garry

 

[rob]

to tell the truth, I broke my own rule of just making one adjustment at a time.. I'm not sure which one made the bigger difference. But the sled is certainly more "Polaris-like" setup like this. (not sure though if that's a good thing) I'll be curious to hear other's opinions once they try it.

 

[team arctic]

Originally posted by rob@Dec 18 2002, 03:33 PM
to tell the truth, I broke my own rule of just making one adjustment at a time.. I'm not sure which one made the bigger difference. But the sled is certainly more "Polaris-like" setup like this. (not sure though if that's a good thing) I'll be curious to hear other's opinions once they try it.

Easy enough...go change those blocks and go for another ride. I know it's a sacrifice

 

[es414]

ride a sled?-what is that-i have almost forgotten how-your set up is very similar the the way that i have mine-std. suspension-i might have my ski springs a little tighter as i have not really changed them from stock-i have my limiter straps in the top hole-they came in the middle-rear setting on the softest-nice ride and does not seem to bottom much-really have not ridden much trail yet but i do not think that there will be a problem with a push-hope to get to tug hill or old forge in a week or so

 

[gatsledder61]

Rob - I have also adjusted the coupling blocks to 2, and now I'm wondering what do the block spring adjusters monted on the rear arm assembley do? They have 3 different settings, and as near as I can see, no refrence numbers like the coupling blocks.
Thanks,
Garry

 

[messickzr]

Garry

Those "blocks" ie the spring blocks adjust the tension on the rear springs. They do not have reference #'s on them, but you can tell just by their position if you have increased the preload or decreased the preload on the rear springs.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by gatsledder61@Dec 18 2002, 04:03 PM
Rob - I have also adjusted the coupling blocks to 2, and now I'm wondering what do the block spring adjusters monted on the rear arm assembley do? They have 3 different settings, and as near as I can see, no refrence numbers like the coupling blocks.
Thanks,
Garry

the spring blocks for the rear torsion springs are strickly for your weight and the trails you ride.. I have mine set to the softest and I've only bottomed a couple of times in 610 miles, but i only weight 185 and don't jump often. The book gives suggestions for those.

 

[Morby]

I second that Rob. The right mounting bolt fell out on mine! My buddy found the bushing laying beside my sled and asked if it was mine. I found the bolt on the running board. Get out the wrenches and give the bolts a twist fellers.

 

[old cat man]

Ok, how luck is Rob an the other guys that live by the snow and have ajob that he can take all of that time off. Did I read that right 610 MILES? That is great. And can you post a picture of the bolts that we need to check?
Thank You

 

[rob]

The bolt is right by your foot on the tunnel.. If I get a chance later today I'll get a pic.

 

[team arctic]

Loctite them

 

[mike929]

Guys there is on more thing you can try instead of shortening the limiter straps. On the front shock of the rear suspension at the point where the bottom of the shock mounts there are 3 holes. Two right behind where the shock came mounted from the factory. you can pull the long bolt out and move the bottom of the shock back a hole or two. A A/C pro snocross racer told me about this. I didn't ask him if it cut down on ski lift but I would assume it would have the same effect as shortening the limiter stap only easier. The racers ore doing this to get better steering responce. I haven't tried this yet but I am going to after I stud my sled and put the 8" carbides on. If anyone tries this let us know how it works.

 

[messickzr]

Interesting point on the mounting of the front shock. So many things to test to improve the handling and so little snow :angry:

 

[rob]

Originally posted by Mike929@Dec 19 2002, 09:18 AM
Guys there is on more thing you can try instead of shortening the limiter straps. On the front shock of the rear suspension at the point where the bottom of the shock mounts there are 3 holes. Two right behind where the shock came mounted from the factory. you can pull the long bolt out and move the bottom of the shock back a hole or two. A A/C pro snocross racer told me about this. I didn't ask him if it cut down on ski lift but I would assume it would have the same effect as shortening the limiter stap only easier. The racers ore doing this to get better steering responce. I haven't tried this yet but I am going to after I stud my sled and put the 8" carbides on. If anyone tries this let us know how it works.

I may be looking in the wrong place, but I only see one hole at the bottom of the ft tunnel shock? Maybe something only on snopros?

 

[SnoProG]

There is only one hole at the top where the shock mounts the fromt arm shock; and the bottom of that shock mounts to the skid rail cross-shaft. You may be speaking about the rear shock where it mounts at the top. My perf manual for 2000 says those holes are model specific and can cause part damage or worse if used incorrectly.

 

[vince]

I softened the front arm spring on mine to the point it just has light tension on it this is basicly setup 101, don't know why cat had it wound so tight any how this made a huge improvement on keeping the ski's down. I put 200 miles on the sled on 12/7 and havent ridden it since, hoping to after christmas but it looks like we are really getting hosed here in the midwest snow wise.

Go Skulls or go Home

 

[coomers]

To date I have 400 miles on my F7 standard with the 1.375 track and no studs. I weigh 175 lbs and ride mostly groomed trails. X Poo guy and am interested in having the sled handle like it is on rails, I have set up my sled as follows. The rear springs are on their lightest setting, the coupler blocks are on #3, and the front shock is as loose as it will go, and the limiter strap is in the middle position. I like having the front springs with about 25 turns on them, the softer they are the flatter the sled handles, but when conditions get loose I have to crank them up about 10 turns to get the handling back. I should also mention that I have added a 1/8th" of steel to the bottom of my skies between the ski and the carbide, this in it self increased steering by about 20% because it increased my keel depth by 1/8" and the carbide by 1/4" (stock carbides are recessed into the ski).

On hard pack trails the sled handles great there is no push and is a blast to ride, although, I still have to be careful how I bring on the power in the corners because the sled will tend to push. A buddy of mine has the same setup but has a pair of C&A's with 8" of carbide, unbelievable difference with his set up you can be very aggressive in the corners with the throttle and the sled just sticks and goes, keep in mind you have to have a soft front suspension to keep the high siding to a minimum.

I should also mention on Monday I was riding with 5 of my buddies, all f7, s all x Poo guys and first time cat guys, non of us have had any problems other than the updates that have been mentioned on this site, this sled is EXCELLENT.

Thanks to Rob for this site and to all that have participated.

Have fun.

 

[NHF7]

Originally posted by rob@Dec 18 2002, 03:06 PM
well it was such a nice day I just had to pull the F7 off the trailer and check it out.. Everything looks good after the trip last week.. One hint I should point out....  Check tension on the front suspension mounting bolts..The ones right by your feet.  These bolts are a little short and don't seem to want to stay tight.  They just barely catch the nylock nuts.  A word to the wise here.. Check these before your next ride!  Same goes for the little bolts that hold the slide rod ends on.  Same deal, but once you tighten them they seem to stay tight.

OK, so I put the coupling blocks to #3 (highest setting), and also I pulled up the limiter straps one hole (to the middle hole on the strap).  Then I took it for a ride.  Differences?  Well it really made a big change.  Cuts the ski lift down to a minimum.  Almost too much.  I was just getting used to the mega transfer, and this cuts it down considerably.  I'm not positive that I will leave it this way, but I will for a while at least to get used to it and give it a chance.  But for anyone that hates the transfer and ski lift on the firecat as it comes from the factory, this is a setup to try.  One thing for sure...this sled sure is sensitive to adjustments.  A little goes a long way.  There is a lot you can do to tune this suspension to your own tastes.. so don't just leave it as it was delivered to you... make a few changes and see how you like it.  One thing about stuff like this, it's fun and it don't cost a cent!  

Here's a picture I just took.. I think it sits a little lower now.. what do you think?

Hi rob, thanks so much for your feed back on the F7 handling. I am going to try your set up to help with the ski lift. My question is that you said you moved your limiter straps to the middle hole. I thought these straps were not adjustable . Did you drill new holes or did you get other straps to work on your sled ? thanks any info would be helpful.My Webpage

 

[rob]

Originally posted by NHF7@Dec 20 2002, 05:18 PM
[Hi rob, thanks so much for your feed back on the F7 handling. I am going to try your set up to help with the ski lift. My question is that you said you moved your limiter straps to the middle hole. I thought these straps were not adjustable . Did you drill new holes or did you get other straps to work on your sled ? thanks any info would be helpful.My Webpage

The limiter straps ARE adjustable.. at least in the SnoPro suspension. That has been reported right along.