I am trying a 128 total on my SP track, my own pattern, but it is just a 2-3-2, staggerd, little shifts to make as many scratch lines as possible, I'll try this, see if I like it and if it is enough not to start damaging studs & track. I just want decent acceleration, braking, more for safety than any thing else.
I did 128 on my std using my own 3-2-3 pattern. Granted I used 1.075" studs, I dont like the way that the rear feels. I studded this sled for trail not wanting an ice racer, but the rear comes around quite easily while cornering on ice. I would recommend either having more than 1/4" penetration or going with more studs.
Green Team F7 - what runner length do you have? just curious, as to you balance on the sled. I also have buddies that are running the 1" track with the 1.175 with a 153 count and some of them have complained about not good enough hook up, what are your thoughts?
I have the SP track with 1.430 Roetin Hornets, my first time tying these particular studs, but visually they do look like they should penetrate well, if not I will try something different.
I believe the reason that your back end still comes around on ice is not because of lack of studs, but instead because of body roll. Since there are no studs on the outside belts when the weight shifts to the outside of the track when cornering it slips. Mine does the same thing. I think you could put all the studs in there you want and still have the same result. If you had less aggressive skis / carbides and your skis pushed a bit more instead of really biting the surface your track would probably stay flatter. Hope this helps.
I have 144 1.075" studs using the above posted woody's pattern on my F7 standard with the stock 4" carbides and my sleds back end broke loose on a number of occasions when riding through the icy corners. I felt mine was induced by throttle application. I would recommend using 1.175" stud for a 1" track.
I am running woodys 6" up front. I do have my limiter straps sucked up in hopes to keep the ski's down. I ride with CHILL quite often.....he put his sled on 3 race car scales before the snow flew, and noticed that there was something like 40# of weight transfer to the rear skid to the front skis when you moved from the rear of the seat to the gas tank. I gotta imagine that with my straps sucked up and sitting on the tank while cornering is probably not keeping much weight on the rear. I will try backing the straps into the middle position next time it snows.
The rear slide is fun, dont get me wrong....But I am beginning to notice some carbides in the studs getting pulled at 300 miles. Usually get 3000 miles before this happens.
How do those Roetins work for you? Heard that they make good products.
As far as the Roetin Hornets go, I do not have any miles on them, I just finished studding it, had to wait until my buddy got his race sponsership from Roetin, so I could order on racer discount. Scheduled to go to the UP next weekend, so I should have more info at that time, might go to a lake this weekend where they are to be running some outlaw races, we'll see how it goes.
Back end movement was pretty bad with no studs.
Installed 144 1450 Megabites in Woodys Pattern. Awsome hookup now, no back end slip. The track still spins a bit on packed trails, but is very controllable. 430 Miles on sled, all studs in good shape. I am running the 8 inch Woodys Carbides up front and it rails real nice.
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