Hardcore Sledder banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Make sure to be very careful when studding Firecats, this example had holes cut through the oil tank and fuel tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Looks to me like it was "studded" down the middle and on the sides- where ALMOST everyone KNOWS you're NOT supposed to stud. All it takes is 1 quick peek under the tunnel and you'll see the raised ribs...in the middle and sides...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
theres a 2003 performance manual available for the f5 f7 and snopro using this chassis. it tells you exactly where to put traction enhancement devices. just putting them where you will will result in you eating a tunnel at your expense. :wacko:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Originally posted by racetechus@Jan 13 2003, 02:03 PM
theres a 2003 performance manual available for the f5 f7 and snopro using this chassis. it tells you exactly where to put traction enhancement devices. just putting them where you will will result in you eating a tunnel at your expense. :wacko:
I just looked in the Performance manual and nowhere does it say anything about where to place studs. Please give page # and section in manual if it exists as it could have been left out of my manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Originally posted by masterofnone@Jan 14 2003, 01:08 PM
I having problems with the studs (stud boy 1.5)hitting the rear cooler just behind the protector.

RED F7 snow pro

Is your track tightened to specs? How bad is it hitting? The reason I'm asking is I'm thinking about studding my F5 SP and I really don't want to run into any of the same issues and I was thinking about using 1.50 inch Stud Boy's , 96 of them in the double digger pattern.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
What is the correct spec. for track tension. I looked in the manual doesn't really give a demension. I also just picked it up from the dealer. They had to replace the drive axle bent!!! . The studs just barly scratch the cooler fins. The point of contact is just behind the wear strip. I just order another wear strip from cat and will install behind factory wear strip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
nice tunnel why does everyone use stud-boy 1.5 stud is to long use a woodys 1.45 on a 102 pattern for sno-pro because the track expanses @high
speeds 1.075 on stanard fcats go to local dealer to get proper pattern
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
I realize every little bit counts but you are talking about .050". :eek: .050" is not going to prevent what happened to this guy. The tunnel is made of aluminum that is thicker than .050. The lug studs I have seen must stick up another 3/16 - 1/4" ! :eek: That is the problem. I don't think there would have been a problem with properly placed traditional studs and proper track tension.
Man - I have to believe you'd feel that kind of destruction! Ouch :wacko:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Originally posted by teamgreen02@Jan 14 2003, 11:10 PM
For the sno pro track that is 1 3/8" use 1.45" studs. I wouldn't go with 1.5"
I believe Woody's 1.450 studs measure the same length as StudBoy's 1.500.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,976 Posts
I have an 02 sno pro with the 1.45 MEG and they have hit the rear of the tunnel. Just a bit of scratching. Nothing major. I think that is part of the deal with the 1.375 track.
Cat S.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
tried the track lug studs had them in for 110 miles.
didn't give me any hookup at all. took them out and found out that the tips of the scerws started to poke through the lug on two of the lugs. I have the 1.375 track
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Originally posted by cmscat50@Jan 20 2003, 10:39 AM
I have an 02 sno pro with the 1.45 MEG and they have hit the rear of the tunnel. Just a bit of scratching. Nothing major. I think that is part of the deal with the 1.375 track.
Cat S.
The track has nothing to do with studs hitting the tunnel. The studs don't mount on the end of the lugs.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top