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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do I need to add any protectors to my Saber 6 or just add studs & go??
Any place in particular I should or shouldn't add studs? except none on the outside belts! Thanks guys

How about carbides? what hot & what's not? although I must admit the factory duals do seem to do a reasonable job on my machine with-out studs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well after 16km on a Yam with absolutly no problems it was hard to switch brands. But I love this Saber, it would be nice to be welcomed over on the "dark side" :augen41:

At least on a Yam site guys were willing to help with advise :div20:

What's up here? Question to tough :dunno:
 

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The SaberCat has the 1 inch track correct?

Depends on what kind of riding you do?

Best bet would be to down load the arctic cat "Cat-alog" from their web site, it goes by horsepower and riding style, and also tells you what size to run.

The dealers sell the pattern's for the Fire / Saber cats too, just basically mark it on the track, drill the holes and put the studs in.

I think they are around 10 bucks for the pattern...
 

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on the 600 go with 136 studs min. don't stud the middle ...have a look at the tunnel you will see what I mean. You can stud the closed windows on the outside of the track. If the 1 inch track I think Cat recommends 1075 length studs but I think you can go to 1175 with out hurting anything (no protectors).
 

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Originally posted by jeffh62@Sep 21 2005, 10:25 AM
You can stud the closed windows on the outside of the track.  If the 1 inch track I think Cat recommends 1075 length studs but I think you can go to 1175 with out hurting anything (no protectors).
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seen a few with ''outside windows'' studded and unless the track is under constant scrutiny, it CAN lead to tunnel damage, not in all cases, but i have seen it before,, JMHO,,

agreed on the 1.175 stud length :div20:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks boys
So everyones happy with those staggered duals carbides? Or should I go to a quality single carbide?
 

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Ok, I thought I would ask another studding question here since I'm having a hard time useing the search feature.

I'm going to change my 1" track for the sno pro 1.375", how many and how long of studs should I use?

On my 1" I used 153 1.175" and they worked great for 4000 miles. Fast Trac!
 

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Senior - the f-chassis seems to like the shaper bar the best on stock ski's.

old cat man - woody's megabites 1.450, 144-153, get the long nuts if possible.
 

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Originally posted by Senior@Sep 22 2005, 06:59 AM
Thanks boys
So everyones happy with those staggered duals carbides? Or should I go to a quality single carbide?
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Personally, I thought the factory AC 4" wanna-be-duals sucked a big one. Mine were dead after only 4 days of riding in Eagle River last February. Given, the conditions weren't optimal, lots of bare road/bridge crossings and snirt, but they should have fared better than they did IMO.

This season I plan to stud my F6 with 136 and throw on some 7.5" shaper bars (singles). Should make for a whole new sled compaered to last year, which was my first with this sled.
 

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I have 150 Woodys gold diggers, 1.075" I used a woodys template. The stock dual runners the sled came with did not work well. I like the 7.5" carbide Shaper bars. I pulled the limiter straps one hole tighter and put the coupler blocks on the tightest setting(I think that is #1) adjust the preload on the shocks and you can make it rail around corners! BTW the woodys template I used in 2004 used 144 studs and left 3 blank rows on a 121" track. I added 2 more studs in each blank row for 150 total. Plenty of traction and control.

JCTB
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
General concensis seems to be go with shaper single bars.

Who makes them??
Will the Saber have some dartiness going to a single bar?

Thanks :div20:
 

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153 studs using closed windows in a 1" track. :beerchug:
 

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Originally posted by ten_39@Sep 22 2005, 05:13 PM
Personally, I thought the factory AC 4" wanna-be-duals sucked a big one.  Mine were dead after only 4 days of riding in Eagle River last February.  Given, the conditions weren't optimal, lots of bare road/bridge crossings and snirt, but they should have fared better than they did IMO.

This season I plan to stud my F6 with 136 and throw on some 7.5" shaper bars (singles).  Should make for a whole new sled compaered to last year, which was my first with this sled.
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Took the words right out of my mouth. :beerchug:
The stock carbides are junk and should be one of the first things changed on these machines.

I have the 1.175's and not a scratch on the tunnel and I studded the closed windows. :div20:
 

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Originally posted by C-NOTEPLUSf503@Sep 21 2005, 10:30 AM
seen a few with ''outside windows'' studded and unless the track is under constant scrutiny, it CAN lead to tunnel damage, not in all cases, but i have seen it before,, JMHO,,

agreed on the 1.175 stud length :div20:
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ya I meant the closed windows not realy the outside of the track as the tunnel does come down closer at this point, agreed.
 
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