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Spindle removal.

9.5K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  higshemi  
#1 ·
Anyone remove the spindle from the a tables? If so, was it have and do you need special tools to seperate. Any advice. :dunno:
 
#2 ·
Its a bitch. we put a bottle jack in between the a arms and pop the top one out, make sure to use some cloth as to not srcatch them. then we used blockes under the lower a arm and used a heavy rubber mall and hit top of spindle to break it free.
 
#3 ·
If you are using an impulse force to remove them it helps a slight amount to remove the skis.

Otherwise I just used a flathead screwdriver to pry between the spindle and the whatever it is there. Put a cloth on the spindle to save the paint.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I placed a 1/2 to 3/8 socket adapter underneath the lower ball joint bolt and wedged against the bottom of the spindle. Used a rachet wrench to loosen the nut against the adapter. Tighten it down good and snug, but don't try to press it all the way out. Couple good whacks on the bottom of the a-arm with the dead blow hammer and it popped right out.
 
#7 ·
I put several layers of Duck tape on the inside where the tapered ball joint stud goes through the spindle and use a larger than smaller hammer and it will pop off,have done several this way and the key is a bigger than normal hammer and a solid wack to that area.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks f7, I'm trying to picture what your doiing but the larger/smaller hammer is confusing me. Are you striking down on top of the spindle or from the bottom and hitting the bolt upwards?
After re-reading I think I know what your trying to say. Just missed a word or two. All I have are small 16oz hammers lying around. I'm goin to grab a 5lb'r and giv'r
 
#11 ·
Image



is the tool you want
 
#14 ·
Image



is the tool you want
Krom,

have you actually used this exact ball joint remover on the Procross's or older race chassis and does it fit into the spindle ?

The reason I ask is this is not the tool for the snowmobiles and is for the A/C ATV's part # 0444-200 and the correct part # for the snowmobiles is 0644-098 and is the tuning fork style.
 

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#13 ·
Yes!!!!! Does it have a name? I tried explaining it to every parts depot I went to. Either they didn't know what I was explaining or they did and didn't have anything in stock and couldn't tell me a
name.
Amazon.com: OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator: Automotive

OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator


they are probabally cheaper on ebay or from harbor freight, but you can get one from your arctic cat dealer too. part number 0444-200 msrp $32.95
 
#15 ·
I heat the bolt a bit, then use a dead blow hammer and they have always come apart, higher milage may need a soak in penetrating oil.


Sent from Snowmobile.com App
 
#19 ·
So, I ended up grabbing a ratchet strap and pressing the left side in. Went in like butter and bolted up beautifully. The right side however, I can't get the ratchet tight enough. Got the top tapered bolt in and tightened up. But the bottom is bein stubborn. Just went seat properly and the nut just spins the bolt.
 
#20 ·
Did your powder coater blast the spindles ? if so you need to clean up the inside of the spindle where the ball joint stud seats into.The problem is the surface is not a smooth anymore for the ball joint stud to seat into thus the stud just spins.Get some 180 gritt sand paper and use you finger to clean up the inside.You can also use a dead blow hammer or rubber and pound on the ball joint or bottom of spindle to help seat the stud,I had the same issue.One last method if you have some sort of air or electric drummel too and a sand paper barrel for the end is peel about 1" of sand paper off of the sand paper drum and then stick it into the tapered hole and clean it up that way,that's how I do them.