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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I was out riding and was about 40 miles into a 120 mile ride when I heard I whine/squeal... I let off the throttle and looked down at my gauges in time to to see the speedometer stop working at the same instant the whine stopped... I seem to remember hearing that this is typical of a PTO drive shaft bearing... How can I check the bearing? How hard is it to replace? Is it safe to ride as it is now? My sled is a 99 XC 700 SP
 

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Today I was out riding and was about 40 miles into a 120 mile ride when I heard I whine/squeal... I let off the throttle and looked down at my gauges in time to to see the speedometer stop working at the same instant the whine stopped... I seem to remember hearing that this is typical of a PTO drive shaft bearing... How can I check the bearing? How hard is it to replace? Is it safe to ride as it is now? My sled is a 99 XC 700 SP[/b]
Do not ride it till you know for sure, that is unless you wish to replace the whole tunnel. Bearing is pressed on.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
...Bearing is pressed on.

Don[/b]
I do not have a hydraulic press... I do have a shop manual on the way. I am an ASE certified auto mechanic, so I am not new to wrenching, but I am a noob when it comes to sleds. What kind of press do I need to R&R the bearing?
 

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I do not have a hydraulic press... I do have a shop manual on the way. I am an ASE certified auto mechanic, so I am not new to wrenching, but I am a noob when it comes to sleds. What kind of press do I need to R&R the bearing?[/b]
Just a regular press like you would use for auto axle bearings, I have a 20 ton air/hydraulic press which works fine, you could pull it off with a gear puller.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
one thing after another [Disappointed]... Any way to install it without a press? I no longer have (easy) access to a press because the Army has moved me... I am 5 hours from my shop/major tools...
 

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I just got back from up north riding and i didnt get to ride at all becuase i found out the my bearing is completly gone. Once we found mine we looked at my friend sled his bearing is pretty torn up.
 

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I just got back from up north riding and i didnt get to ride at all becuase i found out the my bearing is completly gone. Once we found mine we looked at my friend sled his bearing is pretty torn up.[/b]
If you do all your own maintainence yourself, you must grease that zerk fitting behind the secondary every year at least. Pulling the secondary takes 2 minutes- you have to grease both the bearing behind the secondary and the bearing where the speedometer cable goes into the jackshaft.

I have replaced both those bearings with nothing more than a hammer and a piece of lead pipe to use as a drift- I don;t condone this method, but it works in a pinch.
 

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I didnt know until a couple days ago that the grease fitting was even their. Were is a good place to order the parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didnt know until a couple days ago that the grease fitting was even their. Were is a good place to order the parts?[/b]
I am going to order from Babbit's (www.babbittsonline.com) as they have some of th best prices I have seen and I am going to be ordering a fair amount of parts so shipping shouldn't be too bad... If someone has a better place to get the parts by all means share it!!

If you are just after the bearing I would get it from a local dealer...

I do not have a shop manual (will also be ordering it), can someone give me a step-by-step rundown of what I need to do to replace the bearing?
 

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I have done several bearings on the poos. No press or hammer is needed. You will have to drop the track and open up the chain case and remove the bottom gear. Then push the drive shaft all the way over to one side or the other untill you can just drop it out. It really is not very hard to do. Just pay attention to any spacers and seals on the chain case side.There is a bushing pressed into the end of the saft (#34) for the square speedo drive. Buy one off those along with the bearing and speedo key(#32). It is easier to pry that out of the end then trying to get the broken speedo key out.
Here is a link to the assembly.
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...=294390&hl=

Good luck
 

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You will need to pop of the secondary and un bolt the speedo drive assembly. When i say drop the track, you will need to loosen the rear wheels and slide them all the way forward. then drop the rear skid out to give you the room you need to get under it. I had a buddy "say" he did his with out droping the track. I say screw that. Just drop it it is only a 15 minute job to drop it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The more I think about it the more I think the bearing might be fine... I had to pull the engine last weekend to replace a coolant hose, and when I was putting it back in I was having trouble routing the speedometer cable so it cleared the clutch... If I pull the speedometer housing cover will any damage to the bearing be obvious? Is there somewhere that I can find the correct routing for the speedo cable?
 

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Yes you should be able to see if it is bad. If the drive key is broken more then likely the bearing is bad. Or you can try reaching up and under grab the shaft and pull/push to see if it moves. Be carefull, I reached in there and the bearing was bad and sliced my finger pretty good. It is held in there by a stamped steel peice(sp) that will get like a knife if it is to bad.
As for the routing try looking at another sled.

I just noticed the link was wrong try this one.

http://216.37.204.206/actionsports/Polaris...;A=319&B=10
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I pulled the speedometer drive... and the bearing is absolutely without a doubt shot... I am also concerned that the tunnel and/or drive shaft may be damaged as well... I will have to further disassemble it to be sure though... Since I have not received my shop manual yet... can someone please confirm that this is the correct procedure for my 99 XC? http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...t&p=1730082
 

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Yes that is it. That is a very good post. Your tunnel and shaft more then likely are going to be fine. The thing they call a "flagette" may be damaged a little but even that should not be a problem. Did you click on this? http://216.37.204.206/actionsports/Polaris...;A=319&B=10 This will help you out also
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
... Did you click on this? http://216.37.204.206/actionsports/Polaris...;A=319&B=10 This will help you out also[/b]

yes, I was looking at the diagrams at www.babbittsonline.com... from what I saw in my quick inspection I will need parts 30 through 35... The bearing is totally destroyed, the end of the shaft is riding on the flangette... I am hoping that the shaft being "cockeyed" has not damaged the gears/chain... although I am certain they did not help the seals/bearing in the chain case at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The saga continues and the parts list grows...

I started disassembly and ran into a few "hiccups"... For starters I have no torsion springs... The only springs I have in the skid are yellow ones on the shocks...

Also my skid has 6 bolts holding it in (136"), the four front bolts are standard hex head and came out with ease... But the two rear ones are 5/16" Allen head bolts... and I can't get them out... I put a 5/16" wrench on the Allen wrench with no luck. I added a cheater bar to the wrench on the Allen wrench and now my SK 5/16" wrench "smiles", and the bolts are still firmly in place.


So I move to the front and start up there while I think about how to get my skid out... Secondary and exhaust comes off as it should, and I move on to the chain case... I pull the cover and it is dry, I had checked it prior to starting my trip and it was fine. The chain iss so stretched that I was able to remove it while the gears were still in place... I had changed the fluid and checked/tensioned the chain less than 150 miles prior to this "incident", now the lower gear is blued, the chain is stretched so bad it takes nearly the entire length of the tensioner screw to get proper tension, and the tensioner is "scarred" by the chain. It got so hot in there that the dipstick has "bubbled" and warped. I still haven't gotten the upper gear off as I do not have any wrenches larger than 7/8" here (dummy me)... And then of course I live in a little town that shuts down at 4pm so here I sit with a partially disassembled sled (that is more damaged than I initially thought) and no tools to finish what I started


Thoughts, theories, suggestions?
 

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My thoughts are that you have a M 10 suspension and do not require torsion springs. The fasteners on it are metric, could be why your struggling. The front has nuts on the inside, and the rear is a pivot shaft. The nut on the top gear is not supposed to be super tight, so crescent or channel locks may get it off. Order seals and a new gasket for your cover while you are at it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok I said fucl< it and made the 25 minute drive to the nearest open hardware store... I got the chain case off... The only thing holding this b1tch together is the 2 bolts in the skid... any suggestions on how to remove them?
 
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