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My Speedo/tach sometimes just stops working.....no power, then later just starts working again... all connections are tight and hooked up... any ideas?????????
 

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Are you sure all the connections are OK? I had the same problem with my tach. It didn't matter what mode it was in. The speedo always worked but the tach would come off and on in both digital and analog mode. It was a bad connection where the wire went into the connector block on the bottom of the gauge cluster. I fixed it myself and it has been OK since.
 

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Mine did that twice on the weekend at a idle. Dealer doesn,t make enough power at low idle. It hasn't done it since, now after 1500 miles the tach is jumping all over the place. Yes I have turned the coil. Any ideas?
 

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on the F5 model if the idle is low there will not be enough power to run the gauge. It does not seem to be an issue on the 7 as the efi electrical system has more power and it idles more consistent. I thing there is an advisory on this. It is normal operation at low rpm.
Steve
 

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You need to tape the connector going to the speedo on the rt side of the airbox where it meets the hood. The connectors get wet and the speedo reads erratic. My dealer recommended this, but I haven't given a full test yet. :eek:
 

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2021 VR1 850, 18 Tiger 8000, 17 RS 6000, 16 ZR 6000, 12 F1100T, 11 EXT 800, 09 Z1 Turbo, 05 ZR 900
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Hey did anybody notice if there head lights went out when the tach and speedo went out?
 

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Originally posted by F7 SkullCat@Feb 2 2003, 09:39 PM
Hey did anybody notice if there head lights went out when the tach and speedo went out?
If all those conditions are happening, I would lean towards the stator being bad.....
-John
 

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The regulator/speed pickup has a number of coils in it. Lights, Fuel pump, Inj. !, and Inj 2. My dash would quit after a high speed run down the lake and only return when the engine came to an idle. Next the headlights went out the the tail light. It blew the bulbs (overvoltage) When the dealer checked the headlight voltage it was low. Needed both regulator and stator. 850 miles later running good!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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My headlights would not go out completely, but the would drop down to a low amber. Clicking the high beam off and on would do nothing. If I shut the sled down and restart it, everything would work fine for a period of time. I also noticed that the lights would drop down when I would hit the trottle for a short period of time. It is at the dealer as we speak and he is addressing this concern. I was also wondering if what I am experiencing could also be causing my poor top end performance.
 

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Finally got to take the F7 for a cruise today and the damn speedo/tach would shut itself off. If I shut the engine down, and restarted it would come back on for a few seconds and then when i started to move off it went. Kind of concerns me due the fact that without the display working I am sure none of the indicator lights would come on. Any suggestions?
 

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If you measure voltage at an accessory pigtail it will read 13.4/13.6 at idle as the motor revs the voltage actually drops to 13\12.9 kinda weird
 

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YOUR HEATED SHEILD ON YOUR HELMET NEEDS TO BE CHECKED IT IS SHORTING OUT,,,,DONT LAUGH,,,IT MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM FOR SOME OF YOU!
 

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I beleive mine is related to a failure of the voltage regulator. All four headlights are blown out. Didn't remember to check the taillight.
 

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2021 VR1 850, 18 Tiger 8000, 17 RS 6000, 16 ZR 6000, 12 F1100T, 11 EXT 800, 09 Z1 Turbo, 05 ZR 900
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Well guys I had a new magnet and voltage regulator put in last week went riding this weekend and my lights and speedo would go out after a pull to 70 or 80 mph and then would flash back on when I hit the brake. Also at this time and this may be worth noting here my tail light was out when all the lights, brake light and speedo were working, so now I'm assuming the VR puked out the tail light, so when I get home I pull the sled out of the trailer and in to the barn, and the damn tail light is working WTF, so I pull the seat, and the connector for the rear tail light harness near the gas tank is covered in ice and now I'm thinking maybe this is causing a short and then for some reason when I hit the brakes it some how clears the short. Is this because maybe when I'm accelerating on a long pull the ice I found may be water when the sled is running and floods the connector and when I hit the brakes the water rolls foward away from the connector? I'm looking for some insight I mean this sucks I can't ride at night and then I can only test ride on trips as there is no snow in Illinois.
 
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