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Discussion Starter #1
So I need some help with the speedo, and no, I'm not talking about a swim suit. The drive side end of my speedo cable unscrewed and now I can't get the darn thing to engage again when I hitched it back it.

It appears that the that the keys are lined up but she doesn't turn at the speedo head. I tested the cable and it's fine. The fiche doesn't really show anything funky that I can see. Oh yea, the port was greased regularly as well and the speedo was working. It stopped working early on a night ride so I didn't check it out until after the ride.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike Rowell
Bedford, MA
 

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Remove the drive adapter (#12) by removing the nuts (#14) and check the cable adapter (#11). It is probably broke.
 

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Tiger usually the part #11 pin breaks off. It is a sign that moisture got in there froze, and snapped off. If there is moisture CHECK THE BEARING!! It is usually gone too.
 

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Or the driveshaft bearing is on it's way out and the mis-alignment has seared off the cable adapter (#11). Losing the speedo is the first sign when it's about to blow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gotcha. So is the bearing press/drive-shaft contact pretty easy to pull (aka not a press fit)? Looks like you can get the whole assembly including the bearing, lock collar and grease port and the inner and outer flanges.

Not sure what kind of a nightmare that might be to change though. Probably the best bet is to pull the belly pan?

-Couch
 

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Couch you don't need to pull the belly pan. Just remove your drive belt and it's pretty easy to get to.
You should be able to remove the cable by have and then the adapter sould be sticking out. It's about 1 inch long. make sure you get both ends. put in the new one with a bit of grease and hand tighten.

if the cable is really tough, you can remove your secondary clutch and then it's a snap!
 

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Put as much slack in the track as you can and take the secondary clutch out. The bearing should be accessable. Check to see if there is a set screw on the race- you may need to heat it with a mini torch to loosen.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After blowing the speedo last weekend I posted a question about it here last week. Among the response were some suggesting the non-drive side drive-sprocket shaft bearing might have been the reason. Armed with this info, I finally got a chance to check it out Friday night once I got up north and sure enough, the bearing was gone, literally.

Saturday AM started with a speedy trip to the dealing to find that he couldn't help (imagine that, on a Saturday in prime sled season) but had the new bearing mount. He printed the fische and I went back home to have at it. I've rebuilt and restored some old/vintage sleds but this is the first work I did on a modern machine. A little intimidating 1st time out, given the work involved pulling the pipe, silencer, splitting the chain case, pulling the gears/chain, loosening the track, dropping the drive sprocket shaft, pulling the old inner bearing race, installing the new bearing and then putting it all back together. Funny how as modern as they are, some things never change ;)

Really, the hardest parts were pulling the old race (fortunately I had a three arm puller which worked perfectly) and then getting the darn bearing mount into the tunnel with the drive sprocket shaft attached. It took three men and a boy by hand. A simple spreader tool that you crank open would have fixed this with ease, but I didn't have a chance to build one. Next time, I will. I'd guess that dropping the rear bolts out of the slid frame would have given enough slack in the track to make the easier also.

Anyhow, thanks for the help, and we got the job done in just over 3 hours, almost an hour of which was messing with getting the new bearing bolted in ( and searching for a lost nut ;)

Thanks for the help!

-Couch
 

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Tell us you replaced the AC (junk) bearing with an aftermarket (quality) unit which will stand a chance of lasting a few seasons. :huh:
 
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