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hey...not a fix....nor proven to work...but I have done this to mine and should work. better than letting it screw us all....

take off the smart valve filter and ring. (pry it off) then take a tiny drill bit...and after those parts are off...drill a hole at an angle into the center section ..basically letting the valve have a bleeder hole. I did this, pulled the valve up out of fuel...It still ran and pulled the valve closed...but released it and started/ran fine. All this is NOT TESTED.....just did because we have a sled that keeps dying because of the valve.
 

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i have over 200 miles on the f7 is the smart valve only a problem with low fuel levels or can this act up at anytime?
 

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I have 140 on my personall one...no prob. buddy has 300...no prob. another 319 ..and 2 mag side pistons and cylinders...I believe the valve on this one is the culprit, died 2 or 3 times, then finally started, then finally fried..all full tank of fuel...
 

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darn thought i was in the clear on this. looks like ill be talking to my dealer thursday. B)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
dan thanks i guess i'll try that unless someone has something better. i lead in our group and the guys expect me to get on the gas. if this thing dies at the wrong time i'll be run over. by the way its happend on both our sleds black team and patriot sno-pro's
 

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Rod posted earlier that if you reverse the wires comming out of the tank with a short piece of wire and pull the sled 3 of 4 times then reconnect it should run good. My dealer got a box of smart valves in today so the fix is not that far away.

Outdoorshop........is that why you think my sled went down.....I saw you replyed on AM Snow to my post
 

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good. should have mine thurs. then.
Yes it just pushes the fuel into the tank to pop the valve open....but hey that won't help stop it from running in the first place.
 

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I know that Cat was very interested in my engine......They asked me a whole bunch of questions about what I did and the conditions. When my dealer brought up the smart valve question they kinda hummed and hawed and sounded like they knew something but didnt want to tell........I hate that
 

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I really only care...whatever fixes all of the dying and if it had anything to do with motors...who cares. fix it..be done...go ride :)
 

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Dan, is it possible to remove the screen and then take the whole valve assembly out? I was going to try that and just leave it so it still acts as a filter. I just haven't had time to try it.
 

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there is a rubber seal that is what lets it seal tight against the valve to stop flow. Now if that was gone.. then everything will be there, but will never get sucked to shut off.????
 

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Stopped in at my dealer today and he has all the parts in for all three of the most recent service bulletins. Saturday I take mine in I hope for the last time. .7 miles on the sled and 180 miles on the trailer hauling it to the dealer for fixes.... Better to get it fixed now than have it puke on the trail ...
 

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Mines got the new and improved smart valves, unlike the dumbass vavles that most got. I ran mine out of gas and it started up fine, first pull :D I guess it pays to wait. My f7 was built on 11/2. last one to roll off?
 

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what does this valve do ? does it keep the fuel from running back in to the tank so the pump does not run dry ? does anyone have a pic of it apart or better then the one on the fuel pump assy picture?is it like a one way valve
 

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i just thought of another one ! why is the pump in the tank ? it's mounted higher then the fuel level that's why i think you need the valve to keep the pump primed ? in a car the pump is in the bottom of the tank ! so do you think if they mounted the pump out of the tank lower then the fuel level in the tank you chould go with just a pickup in the tank insted of this valve? like a carb sled
 
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