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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just installed an SLP ceramic single to my sled. I also have the SLP air box conversion. I'm at sea level and would like advise on the recommended SLP carb settings. For my riding, they suggest 500 @ 3.5. I ride to -15f and no higher than 1300 feet. Thanks for all advice....
 

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we run at sea level,started at 500s when you nail the throttle you could see black smoke out the exhaust(looked like a diesel) ended up with 470s still a touch rich,but on -10 to 0 on cold drive away the det would come on occasionally,top end seems the same,we had needles 3 position with a .020 shim thats 3.5 ,position4 seemed rich and position 3 would have a flutter at 5000-5300 rpms the .020 took care of that ,this is on a 04 800 with slp single ,v force, cheater head with a/c 70.5 weights and black/green primary,cant remember the secondary set up ,turning the engine 7900 rpms :div20:
 

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take the shim out and run 430 just no wide open for 1 mile will be fine to -20 get it clitched and add 2 flo rites I see you don't have the head either well my opinoin is get 1
 

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keep a eye on your plugs and wash start around where slp says. In the end you will be around stock jets and stock needle settings ( 460 , in the middle clip) My 700 with a few more mods runs nice with 440's and I can do a WOT runs for more then 1000'. I havent seen the EGT over 1150*f on any WOT runs so I should be able to run 430's in my 700 so figure 2 sizes or 3 sizes larger then 440.
 

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With the jetting chart from slp they use the air box kit and gutted with flowrites. If you use there set up the jets will be close to start with. My 700 with the suggested set up was really close to there jetting charts! With 470 at 30 degs the plugges were white an the det light was on! You can call slp for more info, they helped me alot on the jetting side! But! There clutch set up sucked big!!
 

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i found SLP's jetting to be way off. I did all the slp conversions also and i am currently running 450 mains and i know i could run 440's. I am keeping the 450's because i am planning on contacting Indyhead and having him to his head mod. i say start at 450's. you will be plenty safe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. I will start at 490 @3.5 and move from there. I thought SLP may be a little rich on their specs.....
 

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on my 700 with the slp stuff,with a tempa flow im at 440s,stock main, trying 430 this year ,1000ft elevation
 

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they are more than a little rich. when people told me to start at 460's i thought they were crazy. but trust the guys who know it all on here like xc special, nickles, pockets etc. theres alot of them. start at 460's if you must. you will be down at 450-440's. guarentee it
 

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fwiw - with a single pipe, reeds, and RKT head i'm using a 450 main with ATACC installed... i've ran this down to -25 with no issues... if you are starting at 490's you are gonna be PIG RICH... SLP's jetting and clutching reccomendations are always WAY off... when my 700 was stock with only a pipe i was running 420's down to -25, you should be able to run 440's easliy if the pipe is your only mod...
 

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Rouki, is that your RXL in your avi? got any bigger pics you can post?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bonz; My only other modification is the SLP airbox mod. Last winter in some of the conditions I ride in, my plugs were ash-white with 450 @3.0. I stayed with 470 @3.0 most of the winter and down to 450 in early spring.

Our trail system let's me ride 70-80 mph for five or ten miles at a time. Well groomed, little traffic, very little altitude change (0-1300 feet). I rarely ride in temperatures higher than -5f, the colder the better. Problem we often get is high humidity. Sometimes, snowdust can linger in a trail for quite a long time. Third sled in a group usually stays back 1/4 to 1/2 mile. Not being an expert, I can only assume the humidity makes the intake charge leaner.
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rouki
I found the slp set up to go lean on long wot runs, be safe and start rich. I check plugges and piston wash out on the lake where I can run wot for 1 to 2 miles! A short run setup can be leaner but you will need to let off on long runs which sucks! Every sled will be some what differant so do your own testing. Brass is cheap! There are several good people on this site with good info and they are right most of the time. Good luck!

prox700man, how can you guarentee a set up? Last year you did not even know what piston wash was! Now you are an expert? You are still wet behind the ears!
 

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Last year I ran this setup:

SLP single
Indyhead cylinder head
Flow rites
SLP airbox mod
Tempa flow
Needles in stock location
460 main jets

I ran it all year but always new it was very rich , dark brown on the plug. Probably way down on power.

This year I plan on running 440 mains and putting a 0.10" shim under the needle to slightly fatten it up. I like to ride a lot of WOT trails so I don't want the risk of a burn down.
 

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i knew what piston wash was but i didnt know how much i should have. now after all of last year i picked up a ton on tuning and all of this summer i did some racing and mods to my four-wheeler and i learned a ton. this fall im planning on shaving the head on the sled and installing some EGT's. You would be surprised how much i have picked up and how much i enjoy playing with things.
 

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03 PROX7 running @ sea level down to around -20F
SLP single/Vforce reeds and SLP airbox with no flowrites.
I had good wash and light brown plugs running 430 mains and the middle ( 3rd) needle position.

I would not hold it clamped for more than a couple of thousand yds without letting off and or burping a bit.
Awesome response and power for trail riding and on/off operation.


The SLP specs are not nec "off".
They are a starting point for one. More importantly SLP is primarily a mountain and elevation company and they spec their pipes to be used in that application.
Climbing/deep snow/mountain riding means........Lot's of heavy load WOT operation which is a lot like clamping WOT for a mile or more of lake running.
You can't expect your sled to survive miles of WOT use running on the edge crisp jetting. If you want or need jetting that will survive this then you will have to compromise.

If you had ash white plugs at any time you ran the gauntlet and were lucky.
Something in your setup is too lean and or your riding style demands richer jetting than the norm.
Do yourself a favour and put the needle back to the middle ( 3rd ) hole.
Regardless of your main jetting that setup doesn't need or want a leaner needle setting.

Such is the life of carbureted sleds. If you want it all you need to go to a computer controlled EFI multi probe techno wonder.........and pay the $$ up front.

Personally I'll stick with a carbureted naturally aspirated "simple" motor that I can afford and enjoy tweaking......prolly coming to an end I know.
 

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Meat head, sounds like you have a serious lean problem with your 700 that is not normal. If you had 470 mains in your sled on a 30 degree day and your plugs were white, thats an abnormal problem. I have a 800 with 440 mains that runs pig rich. I went down to 420 mains at the end of the year and they actually looked good after a 1/4 run. They were tan. With the 440's I could run WOT for quite a long time without a burndown or DET coming on, but in my opinion, anybody who runs 2 miles at WOT is asking to grenade their motor. Your 700 is not the norm. Something is causing a serious lean condition, whether it is an air leak or carb problem. I see you live in MI which is not a high altitude state, so I'm stumped. That sled must like to suck the fuel!!

:beer:
 
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