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Discussion Starter #1
I had to replace the slides on my F5 at 410 miles. They were wore to nothing in front where they curve. Snow was ample and track was plenty loose. I checked all wheels etc. and everything looked fine. Put 160 on this weekend on new slides and they show wear already. Any suggestions? 600 miles and sled has been flawless otherwise.
 

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Noticed mine looks about 50% at only 240 miles. I'll have another set with me this weekend. Track clips look like they have 1000 or so miles. I know the snow was dirty, but I have ridden in worse and seen less wear in previous sleds. No doubt lack of the extra wheels may have something to do with it.
 

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F5 has 710miles on it, track tension as perfect as possible. Hyfax will
need replacing also. Have only rode in good to excellent conditions.
My '98 ZR600 had 1980miles on them before I had to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Contacted GLS on pay side of AMSNOW. Said didnt seem to be a problem with slides on F5s. He said to check wheels skid frame etc. I check my sled after every ride and every thing is as should be. He said only problem should come from poor lube, but I always rode in good snow.
 

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:eek: Same problem Dunbar, mine looked like new except for the curved area. Try this, tighten your limiter strap up one more hole and back the front skid frame shock off till the spring is rattling loose ,then tighten up one or two turns. this takes the load off the front skid frame. You will have a lot more ski pressure this way which I found to be great for trail riding anyhow. Now to replacing the sliders. I tried pulling mine out through the track window and you likely could but I was getting frustrated so I pulled the suspension right out. Had to loosen the track adjusters off to get it back in and when I was finished I decided to leave the track really loose also ( about 2 inches of free droop with no load on track and rear of sled elevated.) I am not sure if this is too loose as no snow at home to try it . Run the track as loose as possible without it racheting on the drivers. Rob has a good tutorial on track adjustment in the firecat tips section . Good luck :p
 

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My dealer told me the same thing, said he hasn't heard of any issues.
My only response, why didn't my other sled burn off the slidders after
1800miles, this one at about 700. Believe me, the snow is as good if not better than it has been around here.
On the regular F5 it does not appear that there is any adj to the limiter strap, seems you have to cut your own holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No adjustment on my limiter straps. Only possibilty is to drill new holes. I have front shock on skid frame just a few turns tighter then rattling, and about 2 inches of sag in my track with no weight on it. Seem to have everything optimal.
 

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:mellow: HMM. I didn't think I had any adjustment in my straps either,until I removed the woodys backer from the top strap mounting, and then the three holes were visible. If you don't have them they seem to be about a 1/2" apart , maybe try 1 " shorter? To be honest I really don't know if this is the fix either but I did these changes and the slider wear did seem to settle down. Since then i have changed the sliders but no miles yet. Leaving tommorrow morning to ride for a week , will know more if this is effective by next weekend!! 2500 miles now and hoping for another 1000 by next week :p
 

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Well if your like me and ride in norther WI or MI, you have been riding on rocks, sand, and gravel for 700 miles! Combined with about 50 miles of glare ice racing. Mine are about ready to be changed.
 

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Installed new hyfax after burning my first set in 495 miles. Changed my straps to the middle hole and set track tension at 1 1/2" with 20 lbs of pressure. Set front spring tension to just tight. Then rode 140 miles to discover I rat fucked my track and idler wheels up. :angry:
Problem was I ride hard and the trails were beat bad, I mean bad, for about forty miles. I didn't slow down and the track must have move over and caught on the hyfax. Taking major hakes out of the hyfax and ripping track clips right off of the track. Clips must have hit idler wheels also because some are in need of replacement.
Put strap back to longest setting and keep track tight 1 1/4" at 20lbs, unless you want to replace your track, hyfax, and wheels!! Or only ride on smooth trails.
 

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Originally posted by cajun86@Feb 10 2003, 01:09 PM
Installed new hyfax after burning my first set in 495 miles. Changed my straps to the middle hole and set track tension at 1 1/2" with 20 lbs of pressure. Set front spring tension to just tight. Then rode 140 miles to discover I rat fucked my track and idler wheels up. :angry:
Problem was I ride hard and the trails were beat bad, I mean bad, for about forty miles. I didn't slow down and the track must have move over and caught on the hyfax. Taking major hakes out of the hyfax and ripping track clips right off of the track. Clips must have hit idler wheels also because some are in need of replacement.
Put strap back to longest setting and keep track tight 1 1/4" at 20lbs, unless you want to replace your track, hyfax, and wheels!! Or only ride on smooth trails.
Cajun, I think your problem was alignment. When the clips hit, it means the track alignment is way out.

I have my straps in the middle hole and run the track tension very loose. I've got 4350 miles on my F7 now, and the original hyfax look like new. I'm not kidding. But I align my track very carefully, and I ride on snow most of the time :lol: :p B)
 

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Cajun, I think your problem was alignment. When the clips hit, it means the track alignment is way out.[/b]
I have my straps in the middle hole and run the track tension very loose. I've got 4350 miles on my F7 now, and the original hyfax look like new. I'm not kidding. But I align my track very carefully, and I ride on snow most of the time[/b][/quote]
Rob --this is my fourth A.C. and my buddy has had three Cats also. Which I work on all of them, the track was not out of alignment it was on dead nuts. With the track rails up higher in the suspension there is a gap in between the hyfax and the track itself because of the size of the ten tooth driver. So when airborne right before coming down the track could move around before contact with the track again. In my case it came down on the track clips because of the rail height and track tension set at 1 1/2". There was 3-4' whoops beating down on this setup at roughly 70 mph so that could have been the problem also.
Here in Michigan the trails tend to get a little sandy, impossible to get that mileage out of hyfax here with an F7 SnoPro. I should never say never, likely at 5 mph pace. I'm sure the trails you ride on would be considered ideal conditions, lots of new snow. Most riders from Michigan would love that, but the wait is over. Thanks for all your time on this site. :) :) Just think if this site wasn't here you be around 6000 miles. :angry: :) :eek:
 

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I also suffered from premature ejaculation. Oops wrong forum. Premature hifax wear on my standard F7. 675 miles and the front radius nearly worn through. Brought in and showed my dealer. He immediately called AC while I listened. AC told dealer I should loosen my limiter strap and tighten the front skid spring. This is exactly the opposite of what I have been doing. I have had limiter in tightest hole and spring as loose as possible. Does the AC recommendation make sense? I'm a little confused. Enlighten me, please! Rob?????
 

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This makes sense for AC because the drivers are two large and if your straps are shorten there is a chance of repeating my problem. If enough people shorten their straps who knows maybe another recall. This years 440 snopro has nine tooth drivers, himmmm
The front spring I run tighter than I'm use too, just because I was bottoming out too much.




Hey Rob do you have your coupling bks in?
That may be a difference in some of the hyfax wear, no blks= less pressure on the front skid maybe I try none for a while.
 

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Originally posted by fiver@Feb 10 2003, 09:53 PM
AC told dealer I should loosen my limiter strap and tighten the front skid spring. This is exactly the opposite of what I have been doing. I have had limiter in tightest hole and spring as loose as possible. Does the AC recommendation make sense? I'm a little confused. Enlighten me, please! Rob?????
wow, that doesn't make any sense to me at all!
But what the heck do I know :blink:

But I still would say that track tension and good snow are the most important things.
 

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Originally posted by cajun86@Feb 10 2003, 10:34 PM
Hey Rob do you have your coupling bks in?
That may be a difference in some of the hyfax wear, no blks= less pressure on the front skid maybe I try none for a while.
No, I took my blocks out a while back, but I don't think that would affect hyfax wear either.. Blocks don't even touch most of the time.
 

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Originally posted by cajun86@Feb 10 2003, 01:09 PM
...to discover I rat fucked my track and idler wheels up. :angry:
Problem was I ride hard and the trails were beat bad, I mean bad, for about forty miles. I didn't slow down and the track must have move over and caught on the hyfax. Taking major hakes out of the hyfax and ripping track clips right off of the track. Clips must have hit idler wheels also because some are in need of replacement.
Wow dude... I guess maybe that's one argument to not run a track TOO loose?!

Remember guys, hyfax are wear items -- they are SUPPOSED to wear! And yes, MANY of us were out riding in very poor conditions earlier this season that were certainly prone to eating up hyfax, studs, and carbides -- but damnit, it was worth it, right?!?!?!?!

Also, just because you're riding in what SEEMS to be good snow conditions, doesn't necessarily mean you're getting good hyfax lubrication, ESPECIALLY on a newer set of hyfax. I've seen a sled (Kawasaki Drifter) freeze/melt the track up solid on what looked to be a perfectly fine snowy trail. And even after I had several hundred miles on my F7, my first trip to the U.P. this year, my hyfax were sticking, smelling, and squealing something fierce the first five miles or so on our first day. The trail was snow covered and LOOKED fine, but it must've just been cold enough and the snow dry enough that it wasn't melting and providing the needed lubrication. Twice so far this season I've had to scrape melted hyfax off of the track clips.

After 2000 miles, I suppose I should consider replacing my hyfax at this point, as they ARE starting to look a little thin and wavy in a few spots and did anyone else catch this from GLS on Amsnow a while ago: "...you wouldn't believe how some small things effect top speed. Are your slides worn or slightly wavy towards the rear? I've seen 5-6 lengths difference between new slides and wavy ones." I must say, THAT caught my attention, and it's always said that same thing in EVERY owners manual for every sled I've owned. Hmmmmmmm! -- Roy
 
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