I would probably go with sheets of plywood. Not sure how you would fasten plywood to the ramp.

I use the SLP covers on my skis but you can't back up with them.

Carbides would tear up the nice floor.

 

The rubber cow mats at Tractor Supply Co. are heavy enough to just lay in place without fastening. The sleds will probably stick to them well also during transit. You could keep an extra mat that you drag out onto the ramp when loading/unloading.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/cms/life-out-here/the-barn/horse/horse-stall-mat-uses

 

I’ve been thinking of something like this or rubber coin flooring, just curious if the carbides will pull/drag it up?

 

I have basically the same trailer except I went with the sport package, basically just a wooden floor and ski guides on the ramps for snowmobiles. That aluminum floor can get kinda slippery with snow on it. I considered an aluminum floor and my plan was to get 1/2” plywood and cut it to fit and be tight enough so it wouldn’t move when loading and unloading and install ski guides on each section so your carbides don’t tear up your plywood, I believe with the design of the trailer you could do this and use the rear uprights (in the corner) as the locking point of the plywood forcing it forward to lock it in, hopefully that makes sense!
In regards to the ramp, the ski guides Aluma installed on my trailer seem to work good and are not so tall that you trip on them and provide good traction when wet or snow covered. I can’t remember the brand, I think it’s X Caliber..... We use our trailer for hauling motorcycles too and the ski guides on the ramps do not seem to be an issue. I think you might be forced to go with the guides on the ramp or try to use the “Ski Boots” FunCat11 mentioned. The other thing you’ll find if you load your sleds right after riding that the snow will melt off of the heat exchangers and puddle and freeze and get really slippery, (maybe you already know this) I usually let mine drip off for 15-20 minutes before loading, I would imagine that the aluminum floor would make it hard to see the ice, just sayin!
At any rate that was my plan for my trailer before I decided to go with the wood floor!
I’m pretty happy with my Aluma trailer, going into my 3rd winter with close to 15’xxx miles on it!

Oh crap, I hate that, sideways picture crap!

 

I just purchased a used Aluma trailer with the aluminum flooring. I just installed 3/4" horse mats on the inside of the trailer and put the 1/2" horse mats on the trailer ramp doors. The mats add a decent amount of weight which may be an issue for some (~500lbs total). I used stainless screws to secure the mats to the doors and the 3/4" mats are so heavy they don't move so didn't even screw them down. Sled doesn't move once it's in the trailer. If you are not pushing the trailer around by hand then these mats are the way to go. I got them at Fleet Farm, cost me about $300 to outfit the entire trailer. Sleds don't even leave a mark in the mats and you can steer on them really well. With the added weight to the back door you will need to adjust the tension springs so the door doesn't feel heavy when closing it.

If weight is an issue take a look at Skinz ski boots. They strap on and work in reverse. You probably won't be able to steer on the trailer deck with these though. Weight for my trailer is sort of an issue given I have to push it by hand into it's resting place when I get back to the house, so I am considering going the ski boot route but probably run it with the mats this season and assess whether or not to make any changes. If weight is not an issue I definitely recommend the rubber mats.

 

I have the TSC horse mats in my trailer and the carbides dont tear them up at all, just little marks if anything. They are definitely not light though, so I wouldnt want to be moving them around every time I had to use it.

 

OMG, you aren't kidding, I have a small one in the back of my truck, maybe 3x5 or something and I hate moving it! It's so heavy.

 

Just curious what the dimensions are of these mats you guys are using?


Thanks

 

The mats are 4' x 6' for the 3/4" ones and the 1/2" ones I have are 3' x 4', although I think you can get them in 4' x 6' sheets.

 

I'm pretty familiar with horse mats. I've hauled and moved a ton of those things. I can't argue with the protection that they offer. I was leery about trying them for sleds because I thought the carbides would stick too easily. Have any of you noticed that has been a problem?

 

Does anyone have any pictures of the horse mats laid out? I am thinking I will need to get 6 of them and cut them down to 3.5’ wide (to make 7’ wide) and lay them the long way.

 

Alright, I settled on what I’m going to do for the winter. I bit the bullet and bought Advantech flooring with tongue and groove and am going to cut to fit the panels to drop in and hoping the tongue and groove keeps everything flush and doesn’t curl up on me. Tiny bit lighter than the horse mats and cheaper. I went with 3/4” since that’s all Lowe’s had in stock. I got Caliber lowpro grip glides to do just the ramp for now. Will keep updated.

 

This weekend I cut to fit the pieces of Advantech flooring. The d-rings were fun to align but it was worth it to make it sit flush with the aluminum floor. Also added a couple aluminum shelves and mocked up the ski guides. Picking up self tappers for them tonight. I’m only doing the ramp with ski guides for now.

 

I did the caliber low pro grip glides on the trailer ramp last night. I think it turned out well, I spaced them different than Aluma does in their snow trailers. This weekend we will see how it all works out!

 

I like that setup.
I also put wood over the floor and grips on the door/ramps. Used to have ski guides on the floor in earlier trailers. I decided to forgo those in the latest trailer. It seems like I was always moving sleds around to fit better inside the narrower inline trailer. The guides were fine on the ramps, but ended up being a hassle on the floor. The floor in my trailer also spends half the winter covered in ice. The guides didn't do much after being covered in ice.

 

Thanks! I think it turned out good, worked good as well. I used a “peel n seal” caulk to seal the d rings, and trimmed the edges with 3/4” aluminum angle to hopefully minimize any water from getting between the floor and wood. The Advantech osb was the way to go, the tongue and groove make it a seemless looking design.


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