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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys, since I know this is where all the worlds problems are solved, I would like to throw a question out for the "experts" to analyze and advise on:

2003 F7 Standard Suspension, this is what I have done:

Shocks have been rebuilt by an AC dealer
Have revalved all shocks to be closer to sno-pro specs
Have added heavy duty springs all the way around

Problem: Usually after a ride of about 30 miles or so, I can easily lift and push the back of the sled up and down 6-8". Then after a stop for lunch or something of that nature, the suspension is tight, kinda like it is supposed to be. Then after about another 1/2 hour or so, the sag is back in the suspension.

Any clues?

Thanks.
 

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What you are descibing sounds like the oil in the shock is getting hot which thins the oil out. Only cure is a heavier oil, even then it will still heat up.

When you say springs is just the shock springs or did you also do the large skid springs. With the skid springs make sure the piece that mounts to the rail is not worn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What you are descibing sounds like the oil in the shock is getting hot which thins the oil out. Only cure is a heavier oil, even then it will still heat up.

When you say springs is just the shock springs or did you also do the large skid springs. With the skid springs make sure the piece that mounts to the rail is not worn.[/b]
I should have been more specific about the springs, I did indeed install skid springs along with shock springs. The piece on the skid that the skid springs slides through was also replaced. Perhaps the answer is heavier oil, but then again, that doesn't sound like it will fix my issue, just a temporary band aid.
 

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What setting do you have the blocks set at. Since you shocks were revalved it is likely you should be able to run them in the least pressure setting. Also could try putting in the original springs, which may start less tight but will hold longer.
 

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I have two questions for you, which Ac dealer rebuilt your shocks,(northstar or cedarville marina) and are you sure you got heavier spring? other then that someone once told me that even though you had the rear shocks rebuilt to sno pro specs they lack the oil volume and will heat up faster then the 2 in bodied ones, therefore causing the suspension to feel spongy(soft)....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What setting do you have the blocks set at. Since you shocks were revalved it is likely you should be able to run them in the least pressure setting. Also could try putting in the original springs, which may start less tight but will hold longer.[/b]
Right now the blocks are set at the mid level. I have the original springs, so maybe I might try installing them and see if there is a difference-in my mind I can't see it helping, but anything is worth a shot.

I have two questions for you, which Ac dealer rebuilt your shocks,(northstar or cedarville marina) and are you sure you got heavier spring? other then that someone once told me that even though you had the rear shocks rebuilt to sno pro specs they lack the oil volume and will heat up faster then the 2 in bodied ones, therefore causing the suspension to feel spongy(soft)....[/b]
Cedarville Marine did the revalving. I know that I have the heavier springs. The oil heating up is something that I didn't think about-I wonder if there is an alternative oil that I could use which wouldn't heat up as fast. Crazy thing about this is that I should have just installed a set of sno pro shocks and be done with it. I will not buy another sled with standard springs if there is a choice for sno pro again.
 

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The oil heating up is something that I didn't think about-I wonder if there is an alternative oil that I could use which wouldn't heat up as fast. Crazy thing about this is that I should have just installed a set of sno pro shocks and be done with it. I will not buy another sled with standard springs if there is a choice for sno pro again.[/b]
You want to use a good synthetic oil, 7wt is heavy is you want to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You want to use a good synthetic oil, 7wt is heavy is you want to go.[/b]
I'll have to check into this. Thanks.
 

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Also check the measurement on the skid springs (torsion springs) if they really put the heavier springs in they should measure .4 something. I've had mine in 2 seasons starting the third season now and it is still stiff and no problems with sag or softness. The standard springs that came with the sled are junk they lasted about 3 rides and were shot.
 

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Problem: Usually after a ride of about 30 miles or so, I can easily lift and push the back of the sled up and down 6-8". Then after a stop for lunch or something of that nature, the suspension is tight, kinda like it is supposed to be. Then after about another 1/2 hour or so, the sag is back in the suspension.

Any clues?

Thanks.

So glad you posted this. I have an 06 F7 STD with 1300 miles. I too have the same post ride sag. My sled has Fox Zero Pro's which I think are gas filled and the same problem exists. I have my spring blocks on the highest setting and it still has a fair amount of sag when I sit on it.( I am 200 pounds) It can also be pushed down way to easily for my liking. I will be looking at rebuilding the shocks this week and maybe replacing the left and right suspension springs. Not sure how to test them to see if they have lost tension. Other then that, I am at a loss. What are others looking at for ride height to the foot rail when sitting on it?

Good luck with your fix. I will post results from my attempts to correct this problem.

Cheers!
 

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Is there any suspension experts out there. My F5 standard rear shock is doing the same thing I only have 1300 miles on mine please help, I hate to have to try to pull the rear shock - best snowmobiling its been in 3 years. I also noticed that I bottomed out on some big bumps and kick off the seat on some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ttt
 

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I was talking to a suspension expert and he recommend which I am going to do this week end is replace my standars springs with heavy standard springs same as sno pro and he will revavle and rebuild my shock. Springs are $35.00 a peice should have done it when I bought the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was talking to a suspension expert and he recommend which I am going to do this week end is replace my standars springs with heavy standard springs same as sno pro and he will revavle and rebuild my shock. Springs are $35.00 a peice should have done it when I bought the sled.[/b]
I did the same thing, but the sled is still doing the same sag afer a little while. I hope your results are better than mine. I was really hoping to get more info on this, but it seems as though I will just have to do by trial and error. Hopefully I can report something good in the next couple of weeks. Right now we have absolutely zero snow on the ground.
 

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hey Steve I talked to a few mechanic friends of mine about the suspension problem, they said it is normal to have a settle in amount of sag in your sled, something called riders sag, they told me that the springs are supposed to hold the sled up at the very top of the shocks because it puts pressure on the top part of the shock when rebounding, they said it should settle a 1-2 and hold your weight there but when noone is one the sled it will rise to the top of the shocks, they explained it to me as your springs and shocks are supporting you like your on water always moving up and down in the cushion zone, not at the very top or very bottom but in the upper 3/4... now I don' know if this is true or not but I hope it is somewhat
 

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hey Steve I talked to a few mechanic friends of mine about the suspension problem, they said it is normal to have a settle in amount of sag in your sled, something called riders sag, they told me that the springs are supposed to hold the sled up at the very top of the shocks because it puts pressure on the top part of the shock when rebounding, they said it should settle a 1-2 and hold your weight there but when noone is one the sled it will rise to the top of the shocks, they explained it to me as your springs and shocks are supporting you like your on water always moving up and down in the cushion zone, not at the very top or very bottom but in the upper 3/4... now I don' know if this is true or not but I hope it is somewhat[/b]

Some sag is normal. Hes right, with the rider on you want the suspension to sit somewhere around 2/3-3/4 of top height so you have travel both up and down.

But having said that the linkage setup is terrible on the 03's and 04's. Theres almost no shock rate at the upper part of the travel. Thats what makes it seem like your shock is gone when you stop. If your serious about it pick up an 05 rear arm and linkages. Or fabricate some longer shock links and mount them in one of the lower holes. I posted a pic of some links i made for mine years ago, do a search and you might find it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, guys. I'll have to do some investigating.
 

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I just had all my shocks rebuilt and just picked up a set of heavier springs 0704-968/969. Wire diameter .437, Angle 90, Number of Coils 6.75, Coil width 3.75 etc. I am hoping that this will solve my issue of being able to nearly bottom out the suspension by pushing down with 1 arm and almost no effort. I am also hoping that I can set my torsion blocks on the lowest setting and still have room to move up for some hard ditch banging if needed. Will post results when we get our snow back.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just had all my shocks rebuilt and just picked up a set of heavier springs 0704-968/969. Wire diameter .437, Angle 90, Number of Coils 6.75, Coil width 3.75 etc. I am hoping that this will solve my issue of being able to nearly bottom out the suspension by pushing down with 1 arm and almost no effort. I am also hoping that I can set my torsion blocks on the lowest setting and still have room to move up for some hard ditch banging if needed. Will post results when we get our snow back.

Cheers[/b]
This is exactly what I have been experiencing, too.
 
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