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I thought that a post listing different suspension setups would help eveyone. Lets face it, the season is short and everyone wants our CF to be the best riding sleds on the trails and in th backcounty.

Front shocks = Snopro 75lbs
Rear shock = 3 inch sag
Track = stock (but studded)
Limiter Strap = stock
Studded = yes 162 Megabits 1.325 double and singles
Carbides = Woody's 8" single Exec.
Engine = stock
Ski Stance = widest
Rider = 220lbs in riding gear
Style = Trail and very off trail
Ski Lift on hard accel = about 8" off the tail
Comments = Darts too much at slower speeds on groomed trails. Inside ski lifts on sharper turns. I am planning on lowering the front ski pressure first, maybe back down to 65lbs.
 

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Comments = Darts too much at slower speeds on groomed trails. Inside ski lifts on sharper turns. I am planning on lowering the front ski pressure first, maybe back down to 65lbs.

Check your toe out on your front skis - Set it for at least 1/8" toe out - This will eliminate all your darting - Darting is one thing - Pushing in the corners is another
What skis you running ??? What carbides ???



Your center shock in the rear suspension (Adjusting the shock spring tighter will put less ski pressure down - Loosening the spring will put more pressure on the skis)

Coupler blocks in the rear - What setting are you using ??? This helps with ski lift in the corners and handling under acceleration

ADJUSTING REAR ARM COUPLER
(Groove Style)
��NOTE: The couplers are installed in the 2-groove
position at production.
The rear arm coupler provides advantages over the
standard suspension.
First, with the coupler system, ski lift under acceleration
is greatly reduced which provides improved handling.
Second, when riding through rough terrain, the
rear suspension arm receives some needed assistance
from the front arm shock and spring. This happens as
the rear arm is fully collapsed and locked up by the
coupler blocks. The front arm then starts to collapse the
shocks and spring which assist the rear springs. The
result is a smoother ride for the operator.
Each of the coupler blocks has four positions (notched
grooves on the outside surface of the block). When
changing the block position, change both to the same
groove number. To make coupler adjustment, follow
the procedure below.


If you want a more coupled rear suspension - Set your rear blocks to a higher number of grooves - Will help reduce ski lift in the corners , but traction out of the hole will suffer
 

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can somebody help me then? i have problems whit the back of the sled bounsing from side to side when hitting multiple big whops.
i didn´t do it last seson and i have exchanged the front skid shock since then. (stock shock sno pro cf7)
rear shock has fearly new oil. (about 500 km)

does somebody know what can cause this behavior? my gues is on one of the skid shock. but is one of them broken or can the front shock have a different setting then my old one.
 
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