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Attempting to pull the secondary off the 92 340 and it's rusted seized on the driveshaft. Tried a few good whacks with rubber hammer but to no avail. Any suggestions or experience with getting one of these off a splined shaft?
What model is it? Lite, Starlight, etc.??
 

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I have the same sled. There are no threads in the secondary clutch for a puller. Lexuslover clutch is just stuck on there from rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The 90’s should still have a keyed shaft. Before putting a lot of effort getting it off, look to see if the key is present. If it’s not present the clutch is fused to the shaft.
according to the parts fiche there is a key for it for around $4 or so. there is a slot that i can see in the driven for the key. i can't tell if there is a key in the shaft so i'll see if i can get my phone in there to video the hole. Damn i want this thing off so i can pull it apart and do some maintenance on it. Guaranteed both drive and driven have never been off this sled from the looks of it
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have the same sled. There are no threads in the secondary clutch for a puller. Lexuslover clutch is just stuck on there from rust.
damn, thx Kev. i'll just have to let the PB do it's work and hope for the best. this is super shitty though
 

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Discussion Starter #27
if i can some how get that key out....i have some acetone and synthetic ATF in the shop i think. if the PB blaster level hasn't gone down in the next day or so i may try that
Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 8.00.37 AM.png
 

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Tilt the sled up on side so penatrant will fill area like a cup and keep the cup full. Put a rubber mallet by it and whenever you walk by give it a few wraps with the mallet to make vibrations to loosen things up. I would strike it perpendicular to the shaft where you can get a good hit on it and the front face... trying to get it broke loose at this point. It didn’t rust on over night and it’s not going to come off over night. It is still worth to try and see if the key is in there.
 

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It’s not about getting the key out. If it’s not in there the clutch is fused to the shaft. No key in place, hit the throttle and the clutch will just spin on the shaft until it gets so hot it fuses itself to the shaft. Maybe slide a drill bit down the key way to see how far it goes in past the end of the shaft.
 

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It’s not about getting the key out. If it’s not in there the clutch is fused to the shaft. No key in place, hit the throttle and the clutch will just spin on the shaft until it gets so hot it fuses itself to the shaft. Maybe slide a drill bit down the key way to see how far it goes in past the end of the shaft.
Seriously? In 40 years of working on sleds, I've never seen a key missing on a jackshaft. If it was, the sled probably wouldn't even move.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
the sled is on it's side and i did fill it up with PB. I just checked it and it looks to have gone down slightly from how it was last night. Maybe just under 3/32 to 1/8" down. So that's good as long as it's not evaporation. I'll leave on it's side till the fuel lines and fuel pump come in this week. then put those on and see if i can get it started. while on the stand i'll check and see if the belt can open the clutches
 

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Seriously? In 40 years of working on sleds, I've never seen a key missing on a jackshaft. If it was, the sled probably wouldn't even move.
I would think the same to, but i guess if someone slapped the driven on an old rusty shaft that was dry, and void of any lubricant it would happen. Stupid people do stupid stuff all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
well, key must be in there as the PB blaster is dropping in every area except the shaft for the key. will check again in the AM
 

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How? The bolt and large washer holds it in place.
Not only that but so does the small washers and spacer. Then, if key was never installed, I'd like to see anyone rotate the inner sheave as they try to open it to install the drivebelt. Furthermore, if the secondary is lined up with the keyway as viewed from outside with bolt and washers removed, then it likely would have the key in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
after 3 days of pb blaster soaking, i took the rubber mallet to it and it didn't budge, took a 5lb mini sledge to it, and it didn't budge. Didn't want to destroy the secondary, so i stopped. Have new fuel lines coming in today and will put it all on and see if it starts. Have a clutch puller for the primary coming in and will pop that off hopefully without any issues.
Going to get it running first, then will flip it on it's side and try 50/50 ATF and acetone and let that soak for a week
 

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after 3 days of pb blaster soaking, i took the rubber mallet to it and it didn't budge, took a 5lb mini sledge to it, and it didn't budge. Didn't want to destroy the secondary, so i stopped. Have new fuel lines coming in today and will put it all on and see if it starts. Have a clutch puller for the primary coming in and will pop that off hopefully without any issues.
Going to get it running first, then will flip it on it's side and try 50/50 ATF and acetone and let that soak for a week
Plan on replacing the jackshaft bearing(s) also. They are damaged by the hammering by now.
 

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Plan on replacing the jackshaft bearing(s) also. They are damaged by the hammering by now.
As a skilled trades Millwright, I've removed many stubborn pulleys. The best option is to rent a very large two piece puller and a hydraulic device called a portapower. It has a two piece knife-edged plate that clamps behind the pulley/bearing with threaded rods that screw into it and attach to a hydraulic cylinder that pushes against the jackshaft. You then apply hydraulic pressure gradually via the attached pump. The plate would go behind the helix.
No pressure is applied to the sheaves.
 
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