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08 F1000 LXR and 06 xfire 700
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I rebuilt my secondary on 06 xfire 700 but it does not seem to close up all the way and a couple of the rollers are really tight. This doesn’t seem right and looking for advice. Should the two sheaves close up all the way with no spacer in?
 

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If you grab the sheaves and twist, with force, do they close back up? It’s not uncommon for them to stick like that, when not on the sled. As long as you know you put it together correctly, and the inner/rear bushing isn’t worn/damaged:hanging up, then it’s likely fine
 

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Ooops. Just realized it’s On the sled. Can you twist it by hand and work the belt back to the top? If you run it in a stand and let it free wheel to a stop,does it close up then? It should. If not, remove helix and see what’s wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It closed up. I thought the secondary rebuild would have cured my 6000 rpm limit but it did not. Would a weak spring in the primary cause this? i did just change to a red new spring and will try another test run. I did inspect the primary and it looked fine no wear rollers were okay and weights looked fine. Cleaned it out good. If this doesn’t do it I might just bring it in.
 

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A significant problem with either clutch could definitely cause that, but if you are saying both clutches are good, then you need to look at your power valves, sounds like one or two of them may be stuck closed. Remove the valves, also remove the cables from the servo motor and pull them by hand make sure they work freely and are adjusted properly.clean valves. If that’s not it, you need to look at your compression, looking at the pistons when you have the power valves out, make sure they look OK, and then if that all looks good….a big loss in rpm could be from a stator going bad. Stators are not cheap. Checking valve function and compression is free
 

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08 F1000 LXR and 06 xfire 700
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked and cleaned power valves. Checked servo cable play and length. The power valves manually moved when I pulled the cables. Compression 128 each cylinder. I might have to just tear into the drive clutch or buy a new one to eliminate that all together. Thanks for the help.
 

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2000 rpm drop, a clutch part would have to be visible worn out to do that. You’re sure the spring is correct? Do you have a heavier spring that you could put in it, or perhaps a lighter set of weights? See if that affects rpm. That is how we used to look for a bad stator. Machine drops RPMs, I would lighten the weight or stiffen the springs and if the RPMs did not change, then the clutch is not the problem
 

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Running the machine on a stand, can you see the exhaust valves open/servo turn and stay there until you let off on the throttle?
2022 foot note- Don’t do this test if you don’t have a safe way to hold the machine up
 

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08 F1000 LXR and 06 xfire 700
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I do have a heavier spring and a stand. I will check if the servo motor is functioning. Does it have to be wide open or should I see the servo more it take up slack?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh and how much water do I need to throw on the hygac when running on stand
 

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Water on the track? I’ve never done that. Your running it for 10-30 seconds tops. It needs to be virtually full throttle before the apv motor will pull the valves. It only pulls to full twist. Then let’s go, back to resting position. There is no in between. If it’s not holding the valves open until you let off the throttle, that’s your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay I did full throttle and that servo motor never moved.
 

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the servo could be bad itself, the wires too it could be damaged, or the ecu could be bad, and not telling the servo to turn. Most all servo motors were the same, do you have a sled you could swap one off of to try?
 

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The clutch probably would’ve closed up with the old spring on it as well, you never checked for RPMs at full throttle while running on the stand before right? On the stand it has enough power to make RPMs even with the valves closed, but when you put it on the ground in the Sled has to do it’s job, and it is down 20 hp with those valves stuck closed, (if not more) then it does not have enough power to shift the clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay well now my dash and headlights went out after that full throttle run so something electrical
Is going on. I have never ran it on stand full throttle before.
 

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Possible that there is a wire just grounding out somewhere. Unfortunately that could be difficult to find, but with the headlights and dash lights going out I dare to say that’s what it is. Start looking wires over down behind the servo motor, between the engine and the gas tank, along the steering column, Unfortunately, I have replaced entire wiring harnesses before because of problems like that. Hopefully you’ll just find something and be able to repair it. Will probably end up pulling the seat and the fuel tank off so that you can see the wires down behind the oil tank. You’re a dealer would have to do the same thing, and he’s going to charge you by the hour to do it
 

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But it could be the ecu, or the servo. So if you had a machine to swap parts off of, That would be easier than digging too deep into those wires right off the bat. Any fire cat ECU that has the same style plug on it, will work good enough for this test. Plug it in, see if the servo comes to life. Same thing with swapping the servo motor itself
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay thanks I see a lot of threads about the wires around the gas tank. I also had a pinched heater grip wire That could of shorted. Saw that on another post. At least we diagnosed it!!!
 
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