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Discussion Starter #1
just sevicing my secondary clutch.. Belt looks ok but I had way too much deflection.

I find 4 shims..two thick ones and two thin ones. How many are you guys leaving in?
 

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It depends on if you have a new belt or a worn one, If you remove to many your belt will drag and squeel. I remove enough so that the top of the belt sits about a 1-16" higher than flush with the secondary.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks, I'll try removing one thick one as a compromise ^_^ the belt measures out fine at the top, but I know there is some wear after 2288 miles.
 

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had 4 on mine pulled the thin one. belt now sits 1/16th above secondary. i was thinking about putting the thin back in and taking out the thick one let us know how it works.
 

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I set mine so with the rear of the sled on the stand , the track just barely turns with the engine at the proper idle setting.

To accomplish this, I removed one thick shim when the belt was new. Illiminated the slight bog at the hit of the throttle.
 

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I removed one thick shim with a belt that had 350 miles on it. Switched to a new belt and now the track spins when in the air. On flat ground sled will stay put. From what I can remember i have maybe a 1/8" of the belt showing above the clutch. Was thinking about putting back in the thick and removing a thin. P.S. track has about 1 inch gap from slides when in the air. Track moves very freely. Can push it around like it is on wheels. May tighten the track up a little.
 

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TOOK OUT ON THICK ONE AT 200 MILES AND MUCH IMPROVEMENT, BUT NOW AT 700 MILES THERE IS MOREE DEFLECTION THEN I WANT TBE BELT MUST HAVE STRETCHED, MIGHT TAKE OUT A SMELL SHIM ALSO. i WAS UNDER THE IMPRESSION THAT BELT HEIGHT IS TO BE IGNORED AND BELT DEFLECTION IS WHAT IS IMPORTANT.
 

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Rob, remove enough shims so that the belt will still move backwards in the secondary clutch. Grab the belt and push it backwards through the rear clutch. It should slide through with a little resistance. If you take out too many shims, the belt won't move without the clutch trying to open slighty. There is no set number to remove because Cat's belts vary in length so much. 1 thick shim removed from yours might be too much for someone that has a slightly shorter belt. Black Magic's belts are all close tolerance belts. There are the same as a stock -020 Cat belt, but the lengths are very consistent. You will also notice when you take the secondary apart, the shims will start sinking into the aluminum casting as the mileage piles up. Nothing to worry about, but you may have to remove shims as the clutch wears. Always try to keep 1 thin shim in the clutch for adjustment purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by looneytune@Jan 15 2003, 04:15 PM
Rob, remove enough shims so that the belt will still move backwards in the secondary clutch. Grab the belt and push it backwards through the rear clutch. It should slide through with a little resistance. If you take out too many shims, the belt won't move without the clutch trying to open slighty. There is no set number to remove because Cat's belts vary in length so much. 1 thick shim removed from yours might be too much for someone that has a slightly shorter belt. Black Magic's belts are all close tolerance belts. There are the same as a stock -020 Cat belt, but the lengths are very consistent. You will also notice when you take the secondary apart, the shims will start sinking into the aluminum casting as the mileage piles up. Nothing to worry about, but you may have to remove shims as the clutch wears. Always try to keep 1 thin shim in the clutch for adjustment purposes.
Thanks, that explains it well. I took out 1 larger shim and the belt seems to have what I would say is the correct amount of tension. I didn't start the sled as I'm servicing other things and don't have it all back together. I don't have a garage and today was just a little nippy to be working outside....High of 5F. The old fingers get cold after awhile ;) ^_^
 

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After coming from Polaris, it was very easy to adjust belt tension on the secondary. Have any of you tried those Belt adjusters that they make? I have one on my F7 and it works just like the adjuster on the polaris secondary's, just takes an allen wrench instead of 7/16" wrench. $30 As the belt wears, you can keep it adjusted 1/16" -1/8" out, no need to take off the clutch.
 

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you may have to remove 2 after the belt wears to get proper deflection. All depends on the belt you are running too. The 020 belt the firecats take may require more deflection than a 021 or a 012 because it is a harder compound.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by md2020@Jan 15 2003, 05:05 PM
After coming from Polaris, it was very easy to adjust belt tension on the secondary. Have any of you tried those Belt adjusters that they make? I have one on my F7 and it works just like the adjuster on the polaris secondary's, just takes an allen wrench instead of 7/16" wrench. $30 As the belt wears, you can keep it adjusted 1/16" -1/8" out, no need to take off the clutch.
do you have a link for that? Sounds like a good idea.
 

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Originally posted by md2020@Jan 15 2003, 05:05 PM
After coming from Polaris, it was very easy to adjust belt tension on the secondary. Have any of you tried those Belt adjusters that they make? I have one on my F7 and it works just like the adjuster on the polaris secondary's, just takes an allen wrench instead of 7/16" wrench. $30 As the belt wears, you can keep it adjusted 1/16" -1/8" out, no need to take off the clutch.
Correct me if I'm wrong but since the F7 doesn’t have a floating clutch and a change in the number and thickness of washers has to be duplicated between the clutch and jack shaft to keep the clutches aligned.
 

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In a way its still a floating clutch-if you look close enough,there is a o-ring on both sides of the clutch.The o rings give a little to give some clearance.Just make sure you remember to put the correct number of washers on the bolt that came off when you pulled the clutch.You dont want to crush the o-rings,you will see what i mean when pulling the secondary-scott
 
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