It should have a O2 sensor

 

It has an 02.


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My engine is missing the exhaust, I have the downpipe with the flex pipe and the 4 bolt flange but nothing past that, I assume the o2 is usually right after the downpipe?

 

Yes, the sensor is right before the muffler. As for intake, you can run a straight pipe into it with a filter and you will be fine. I have tried various cold air intakes and the straight pipe into turbo outlet seems to work best.

 

Cooling for summer use might require a bigger radiator for a motor designed for winter use. Did the RZR require any coolant mods for the turbo add on for the first motor?

 

No additional cooling mods for the rzr turbo, but my turbo wasn't water cooled,

What is the normal operating temp range for the 1100 turbo motor 180-220?

Does the instrument cluster have coolant temp reading or just hi temp warning light?

 

I have a stock muffler if you need one.

 

If you need to see engine specs or info I uploaded the 2012 race manual on the site, just click my user name look at topics/threads I started and click the race manual link and you will have all your info... Keep us posted on your progress, will be a very fun ride!


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Thanks for the help guys, I have a 50% larger aluminum rad coming, just waiting for my rear diff to come back from being built by Jason hawk with the billet housing, once that is in everything will commence.

 

very cool project. Keep us posted as it develops.

 

Here is the build thread

Jon's Rzr 50" Z1 Swap build thread - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net

Anyone have install instructions or operating instructions for turbo dynamics anti lag ecu system with knock light? I recently got one but would like to know a little more about it.

 

So I've had this beast running for awhile and I have most of the kinks out, the motor was sitting for awhile and the water pump seal went, no big deal, it's nice that Suzuki makes them rebuildable.

Anyways I'm running the td 91 race tune, custom header and Dasa muffler with an air to water intercooler and at the intercooler my boost gauge is only showing 8lbs of boost. It hauls ass but seems low on boost, I'm pretty sure there is no leaks in the charge piping, any suggestions?

 

Is the wastegate wired/hosed corectly? The wastegate has a 8lb spring in it stock so either your w/g solenoid is stuck open/wired incorrectly or the hoses arn't installed corectly on the w/g. You think it hauls ass now, wait till you make some boost....

These engines make around 11psi stock so with 8psi your making around 145hp. So with the TD tune your loosing right around 100hp with the w/g issue.

 

I'm pretty sure there is a hose going from the turbo outlet (charge air) right to the wastegate, shouldn't it go to the solenoid then back to the wastegate? What about the bypass valve that recirculates charge air back into the intake air box?

 

Yes the small hose goes directly to the wasegate.The larger fitting that goes to the solenoid bleeds off the boost to the actuator.The ecu controls the wastgate solenoid ground side. The other side is system voltage.The solenoid is normally closed and will not vent so double check wiring to solenoid.
With that being said if you have any codes or the engine is cold the ecu will not raise boost pressure past 8ish#.
Do you have a good air intake system?
If you have good fuel and remove the hose off the wastegate or the large hose off the turbo fitting it should make about 24# boost. But be very carefull about fuel quality and only short bursts to verify first. If you use the lower settings on your tune with the wastegate unhooked it will overboost and then lay down.That is normal because it overshot the boost because it does not have control of boost.Not sure what settings you have but powertrail or max will get you either side of 20#

 

Thanks for all the info, I had a quick look and I have the small hose going right to the wastegate and another larger hose heading in the direction of the solenoids but I have to take the bed off to confirm that... Perhaps the wastegate and bypass valve solenoids got mixed up? Is the other side of the wastegate solenoid supposed to vent to the atmosphere?

 

Well they vent into the air filter side of the intake on the sleds but basicly yes they are just dumped to atmosphere

 

I just found this thread,

http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/534-turbo-tech-talk/642953-turbo-boost-2.html

It mentions a 0.020 restricter in the line going from the turbo outlet to the solenoid (I assume) which I still don't understand how would cause this issue, because if there is no restriction there will be more air going to the solenoid which leaves less air to open the wastegate, or is it the other way around?

 

That's on a aftermarket turbo, the dual outlet fitting in the stock turbo housing is the restrictor. Your thinking of how it works the corect way, with the engine turned off you should not be able to pass air through the solenoid valve, as soon as you start the engine the valve should open

 

Ok, my guess is the other side of the solenoid valve is plumbed into charge air, instead of turbo intake or atmosphere, that would be the same as the solenoid staying closed I think...

 

Definatly would be like the solenoid being closed, same amount of pressure on both sides of the s/v, no where for it to dump. Please post a vid of your rig in action once you have it fixed

 

Ok so I took the bed off tonight and I found 2 issues, the boost gauge was T-d into the line that goes from the intercooler to the bypass valve solenoid, but the solenoid end had blown off! so I guess the bypass valve wasnt working. even if the solenoid end was connected it wouldn't read accurate boost levels because it was being passed back to the diaphram. I installed a new hose barb in the intake manifold to feed the boost gauge, and I tested the gauge with my compressor - works ok. The wastegate plumbing is correct. I havent had a chance to take it for a rip yet, but that still doesnt explain why switching from the max91 map to the race map didnt make any difference in performance, unless perhaps the ecu monitors the bypass valve solenoid, and if it doesnt reduce the boost pressure it stops increasing power??? or my 91 octane fuel is lacking...

I pm'd smokinfour, who i got the TD ecu from to confirm what tunes were installed and what his experience with them were. he said this:

"Yes the hi / low switch will take it from Max91 map to Race map. If I recall the max91 map was around 19 to 21psi in race map you will reach around 30psi with the gate shimmed or locked shut. It will make more power without shimmed but not a ton since it is realy tuned for it being shimmed.

some things to think about is good fuel. Without good fuel you will not even boost to reach real Max91 the tune will start pulling boost and if you don't have good race fuel it will not boost all the way up. I ran 93 with some torco accelerator on the max91 map beacuse I never felt I got good 93 fuel on the trail and ran Q16 or C16 for race.

Also if you have any boost leaks they will stop from boosting also.

If I was to go back to running the stock turbo now I would get a OSP wastegate. Tell them you need the stock spring since that is what the tune is made for and it will make locking the gate way easy. All you have to do is switch a small hose or you can buy the kit and put it on a switch."

Like I said before maybe I dont have good fuel, but I never saw the knock LED come on at all.

 

Can we please see some pics? I'm very interested in this swap


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I'm impressed! Looks like a ton of work. How much power will it be making? And any idea about what the top speed will be? Good work by the way! Keep is posted.


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Ecu is loaded with max91 and race tunes from TD,

With the overdrive clutch it is supposed to do 90mph I haven't had a chance to calibrate the speedo yet.

 

Dyno tuning right now, both tunes max91 and race are pig rich!!! 10.5:1 flat line, we are trying to figure out why it's not making enough boost, only 19lbs in race...

 

So I'm thinking the TD tunes are looking for arctic air... Not 15*c coastal air, hence much lower boost pressure and rich AFR,

We clamped the bypass and wastegate shut and it made 28lbs but had knock (probably from only running 94 octane chevron fuel) I might try tighten the plug gap to 0.020 add studs, and maybe get an aftermarket wastegate and try race fuel and see what it does.

 

Did you get it fixed?

 

I just swapped the hose tonight and it really seemed to make a big difference ripping down my driveway! I also found I had the bolts on the primary clutch fan around the wrong way so it was limiting the clutch travel!

I might not be able to take the machine out until Sunday so I will report back then. Thanks for helping though!