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Discussion Starter #1
Found I had to test the "hype" with those roller thrust bearings. So ordered up 3 of them from an eastern supplier.
Decided to put one into my 600 first , as I never been thoroughly happy with its shifting / smoothness. Compared to my 850, it feels almost "jerky".
That was both with stock 160-240 spring and the soft blue/black 120-203 I tried. (No delrin washers)

During dismantling, twisting on the sheaves felt as smooth as pulling a roll of barb wire over a field of rocks, lol!
Some cleaning out , a delrin washer and a roller bearing and everything felt a whole lot smoother.

Had to take sled for a little spin as I was curious how it would work, especially with the soft spring - heard there was a risk of overshifting when using soft spring with the roller bearing.
The most noticeable thing was the enhanced smoothness at lower rpms/speeds. Much easier to ease into the throttle in loose snow, whereas before it would just hit hard and start digging down.

I think I'll do the 850 clutch tonight
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yup,
I put first a delrin washer, then the bearing under the cup.
 

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yup,
I put first a delrin washer, then the bearing under the cup.
The first time I put one in was with a customer standing there waiting for his clutch.When you let go of the spring and the spring and cup start to rotate on its own you just know its going to make a big difference.
Its no Team Tied but its pretty damn good.The only unknown at this point is how long they last.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Any pictures of the bearing and where did you purchase? Price?
There are more threads do be found on these in the indy and assault subfourums I think, just search roller bearing.
The preferred manuf. seems to be Koyo , but I couldnt find anyone in the US with reasonable shipping to Norway so I found some from Hong Kong instead. I guess we'll see how they hold up.
e.g.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KOYO-TORRINGTON-NEEDLE-ROLLER-BEARING-THRUST-BEARING-NTA-2840-L125-NEW/330889135961?hash=item4d0a878759:g:1fEAAMXQfFJRQLae

I was puzzled at of how rough the clutch felt (Maybe I can call it the Team TiRed?) , a good cleaning and some delrin washers probably would have made a noticeable difference too. 3K miles on the sled and I suspect the friction has been there almost since nee.

But - everytime I work on a team - I miss my good ole button clutches, lol! Last night I broke my screwdriver when trying to undo those pesky screws holding the helix :wall:
 

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Found I had to test the "hype" with those roller thrust bearings. So ordered up 3 of them from an eastern supplier.
Decided to put one into my 600 first , as I never been thoroughly happy with its shifting / smoothness. Compared to my 850, it feels almost "jerky".
That was both with stock 160-240 spring and the soft blue/black 120-203 I tried. (No delrin washers)

During dismantling, twisting on the sheaves felt as smooth as pulling a roll of barb wire over a field of rocks, lol!
Some cleaning out , a delrin washer and a roller bearing and everything felt a whole lot smoother.

Had to take sled for a little spin as I was curious how it would work, especially with the soft spring - heard there was a risk of overshifting when using soft spring with the roller bearing.
The most noticeable thing was the enhanced smoothness at lower rpms/speeds. Much easier to ease into the throttle in loose snow, whereas before it would just hit hard and start digging down.

I think I'll do the 850 clutch tonight
Been through all that with 6-800 sleds here. I guess any improvement it makes is probably equal to the coast of the mod.
On another note a good setup for the team tied is night and day better.
 

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Ivar, I did the needle bearing and steel washer on my 20 Indy 850 before it hit snow. I'll take it apart sometime by late spring for first lookover, after putting around 1,700 miles on it. I used the Delrins since around 04 but never thought about one instead of the steel washer with the needle bearing.
 

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What's the benefit of this over just greasing up the delrin washer?

How does the thickness of washer + bearing affect spring rates?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
in theory, less force needed to get sheaves starting to move should make everything work smoother and more responsive to smaller changes in throttle input / load
 

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As far as those helix screws on the team, they can be a bitch to loosen if you never grease the threads and heads on them before installing. Only easy way if never done to loosen those screws is with heat. I just use a heat gun concentrated around the sheave where each screw is buried.
 

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Some good tips given. Heat, they have blue loc-tight on them and tapping of the torx screw driver handle. Even tapping while trying to unloosen helps. Also, try to apply/hold a steady amount of unloosening force to get the screw broke loose vs just letting her have it and trying to snap it loose.
 

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I replace the screws with stainless allen head on every team clutch i touch. Can order a bunch for cheap online...Never a problem after that! That soft steel screw can also get corroded in the aluminum as well down the road after you beat the initial loctite war!!! I like to make my life easier if i can haha!
 

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Ivar, I did the needle bearing and steel washer on my 20 Indy 850 before it hit snow. I'll take it apart sometime by late spring for first lookover, after putting around 1,700 miles on it. I used the Delrins since around 04 but never thought about one instead of the steel washer with the needle bearing.
I would be interested in that report.
 

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Beginning of year I installed roller bearing only.I didn't notice a big difference mostly no clunking when going from reverse to forward and now and then going from stop.
Rpms seemed to drop a bit and were more consistent.
After about 3000 miles i noticed clunk coming back in secondary so decided to tear apart and see how things were going.I noticed gray dust in bearing and was a bit sticky.
Seemed like i had belt slipping now and then and clutch showed this since new.
In deep snow clutches would get hot.
I decided to install the two steel washers on each side of bearing hoping i would gain some spring tension and help with wear before last ride.
I was surprised how much better sled performed.Much better acceleration,quick backshifting.clunk in secondary gone.Did not get to check top end performance but quick to 100.Put good 600 miles on since so will take apart again and check wear.
Clutches also looked much better.Actually stayed pretty clean.
Also clutches stayed cooler.

I think the extra spring pressure was what i needed?
 

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The roller bearings are designed to be installed with the matching hardened washers on either side of the bearing. They serve as the bearing race. Installing just the roller bearing by itself is defeating the purpose. It would run against a rough aluminum surface of the sheave on one side and the bottom of the spring cup (Polaris calls it a thrust washer) on the other side.
No delrin washer is needed when using the roller bearing set.
In another thread, a point was made as to how thick the bearing set is. It is slightly thicker than three delrin washers, so the thickness shouldn't change spring height enough to make any difference.

One last thing, these bearings aren't designed to be run dry. They should be lightly packed with grease, just enough to lube them. Don't go overboard with the grease though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did give the rollers a light greasing before installing. And sure, a proper steel washer would be preferred. The sled is a backup/loaner so it wont see too many miles this season it seems
 
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