Looking at an 2016 AXYS 800 SW X and dealer is baffled that they can remove E/S (per my wishes) while leaving battery/solenoid intact and still have the IDD function properly. i believe this is true as my 2015 SW S was ordered without ES and with IDD and functions fine. (Then I replaced the 13-pound anchor with a 2-pound lithium--no issues).

Anything to add that I can tell the dealer in going ahead with this removal?

Thanks

Your reasoning for keeping the battery is to get the Display to illuminate when the key goes from Off to On, please confirm.
But to keep the battery for this reason only, is not clearly understood.
You would become accustomed to the Display illuminating after the recoil is pulled and the engine starts.
Saves a lot of weight
Now pull the solenoid, and sell the parts.
Your dealer would only follow the directions, "How to install ES", but in reverse.
Start from the bottom and work up!

 

Yes--Battery to keep display on is how my NON-ES SW came. SO I CAN run the IDD without ANY battery/solenoid--just need to wait until i start it? That is just fine with me! I can always use my phone app if I want to sit silently trailside. Will I lose some aspects of function or storage?

 

How much weight savings are we talking pulling the es. I though about doing it to..

 

I'd be interested in your starter.

 

Really though, how much weight are you saving? I cant imagine that its worth it to remove it. My guess is people wont even notice the difference. I've never heard anyone say "man my sled is heavy, I better remove that ES, that will make all the difference..." Unless you're building a full mod.

 

Switching out JUST the battery to lithium ALONE on my SW was 10-11-pounds. And now I learn I can get rid of the battery box (3-lbs) and the solenoid (maybe a pound with cables) and of course the starter--likely 7-8 pounds--so: 25 pounds. And not ONE trail will get closed because of it.

Plus--and NOT being a smart-ass here: I lift weights and coach people on this for a living. Since I do pull-ups with 60-pounds attached to my body--I can handle 6-10 more reps of right arm pulls per daily ride. I have owned 8 sleds--Never had E/S--and never will. Even my girlfriend has to "suck-it-up-buttercup" and pull start her (my) Indy 800 SP. I do the honore when cold. This will be my second sled where I removed it. No regrets.

Then I have my Bikeman pipe waiting (5-6 pounds) and trail-legal can (13 pounds) so THAT adds up to a LOT--ALL off the front. Wheelies for days.....

Note: If I can remove ALL of the E-start--I will sell it for about 40-50% off list ($350). And that is my PCV cost.

I do this weight-weenie stuff with everything: Mountain bikes; Motorcycles; Snowmobiles; And clients....

AS Colin Chapman of Lotus automobile racing fame said: "Making more power makes you faster in a straight line. Making a car (snowmobile) lighter makes you faster EVERYWHERE--acceleration; braking; cornering. ADD: Lightness".

 

and when its time to sell , its a big plus to have es . weight savings, lol , not much if you keep the battery, 7-8 lbs, maybe ..

 

Wait till it's -30 and you want to ride, your gonna wish you kept that ES

 

Everyone with ES I ride with are pulling the rope in the morning at -30

 

I can't understand the weight issue, Rotating weight is one thing. Take a good dump before you race your buddy. :flush:

 

Weight means a lot, if your 135lbs, 5'7" all muscle.
On the other hand, weight is nothing if you built like a fire plug, about 260lbs


Either way, your suggestion can not hurt, and certainly can help.

the #1 item in my W/S bag, is for #2.

I bought the sled w/o ES, I was happy then & happy now.

 

Take a good dump before you race your buddy.


:lol3: :roflmao::lol3: :roflmao::lol3:

 

keep the ES you would be crazy to remove it.

 

You won't even notice the weight savings.

 

Have at it, but just don't be surprised when people look at you funny when you tell them what you're doing. But, If you're in such great shape, that extra weight should be nothing for a guy like you....


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I'm on bored with this guy. Didn't ordered ES for the reasons stated but not knowing I wouldn't be able to keep the IDD gauge running with engine off. I'll keep posted to hear what must be done to utilize just a battery for gauge power

 

Not to mention that 5 lb ring of rotating steel on the clutch for the starter to engage. When my buds asked why I didn't get electric start, I told them I wasn't old enough.

 

Will never order another sled without ES. Just makes u look cheap when your pulling your balls off when its flooded. MO

 

Are any of the newer polaris sleds carbed still?

I know my cat 700 EFI will start 2 pulls anytime so I would never want the weight of ES for that reason. It be different if you have to sit there and pull and pull a finicky carb motor.

 

Youll have to wait for display to reboot when going fwd to rev or vs versa without a battery.

 

Youll have to wait for display to reboot when going fwd to rev or vs versa without a battery Will never order another sled without ES. Just makes u look cheap when your pulling your balls off when its flooded. MO .

While I agree to the re-boot, never noticed it to be a problem, never had a flood, never pulled over 4x. Never "hurt" myself, either, except my XLT, pulled for 20 minutes, and still did not get it started. Loved the sled, hated the starting. It was a Love/Hate deal.

I believe you have overstated to make a weak point.

 

I chose not to order ES with my 16 when I snowchecked it. Dealer said the whole ES setup is 25 pounds. These sled starts very easily even in the cold, I have no problem pulling a rope, actually kind of like it better.

 

I'm old enough to need electric start. A light weight sled also helps me out. So I installed a light muffler and battery. Total weight savings was 25.3 #. Brought the sled weight down to about 420#. My problem is the battery won't start the sled when the temp is below about 15 degrees. After the first start, it's fine for the rest of the day. The battery must warm up under the hood. The battery is for sale if anyone is interested. It's a wps featherweight lithium. Weight about 1#. Bought from BMP. Retail $195. Sell for $125. PM me if interested.

 

display

why on earth would anybody need/want the Display to work when the motor IS NOT running?

The best/valid answer is when you 1st get the sled. The Display is not easy to learn. It take the manual, patience, trial & errors.
To learn this Display, while the engine is running can be frustrating.

After learning, you are correct, the Display & Engine need to run as one, just like a car.
Car is different, you are comfortable, no engine noise.

 

why on earth would anybody need/want the Display to work when the motor IS NOT running?

The best/valid answer is when you 1st get the sled. The Display is not easy to learn. It take the manual, patience, trial & errors.
To learn this Display, while the engine is running can be frustrating.

After learning, you are correct, the Display & Engine need to run as one, just like a car.
Car is different, you are comfortable, no engine noise.

Ok..valid point for sure. I guess I didn't think aboout all that display stuff. To be honest, I don't know what all mine does, or the one before it (Etec), I just set it to RPM's and that's it. But I suppose they do all kinds of stuff worth learning. THEN...I'd pull the ES. :thumbsup::bc:

The IDD requires frequent updates to keep your trails up to date. The "Once a season" update can take up to 10 or 15 mins. The more frequent trails update take 5 to 8 mins.

I don't like to idle my sled for that long.

Mal

Good point...again, I forget there's more to the ES sometimes. :bc2:

To each their own.

If you work on sleds, the non ES's are much easer to work on.

Was at a pit stop last week, I was the only one without ES, a couple of older fella's (late 60's, early 70') were makin fun of all the ES sleds. The one guy says to his buddy, what a bunch of pussies! :lol:

My new Doo had the Estart for the first shitty season. They put it on as a "freebie" Nobody I rode with had E-start and when we started them next to other groups I acted like I was pulling a rope as I hit the cute little button. :roflmao: You know...gotta try to protect my "man card". :roflmao: :blink:

 

I understand the whole weight savings thing ok? I'm a former snocrosser and did everything you could imagine to make our sleds work better. Keep in mind this was back when they didn't have purpose built race sleds.
Also, this is the first sled I've ever had in my life with ES so I'm well versed on how easy they start in all conditions.
Now, to have your dealer remove the factory ES?
How much weight are you gonna add with storage bags, studs, 9.5" shaper bars? Are you going to then get a different exhaust like someone mentioned and get titanium springs, and shafts...remove all the wheels that you can, remove all the foam? Run less gas in the tank? If you're doing all that, then you are building a mod sled in my book and like I said, then it's ok. Fricken MX race bikes are coming with ES now!
Maybe it's like drinking and partying too much, some people grow out of it and others don't.


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My take on the electric start....Last year before I snow checked a couple of machines, I read up on the chat boards.....I was convinced to just get the pull start and save the weight.

One machine I bought only came with ES. Other one is pull start. Ran them all last season.

I would never buy a sled again without electric start. Man is that ever nice. Didn't feel it was needed, but once you have it....love it.

The weight savings sounds great.....but if it's that big of a concern, just put a couple gallons less gas in the tank, (or I could go on a diet. LOL) You'll never notice the extra weight of the electric start.

 

SO.. just like everything else. to each their own, right?
I went from 650 triple (notorious bad start and hard pull) to 600 adventure. Sure, it starts a lot easier with the pull cord than the 650 ever did. BUT I love the ES. Plus, it's worth the money just to make fun of your buddies pulling their sled over.
That, and I don't spend the entire winter season with a sore back.

 

To each their own.

If you work on sleds, the non ES's are much easer to work on.

Was at a pit stop last week, I was the only one without ES, a couple of older fella's (late 60's, early 70') were makin fun of all the ES sleds. The one guy says to his buddy, what a bunch of pussies! :lol:

 

If a lighter sled helps me miss ditch hazards...I am all in!!!!


who looks at there speedo to figure out when to brake?...no one ...get rid of it!

who needs 112 extra pounds of suspension?....PUSSIES...that's who!:lol3:

 

If a lighter sled helps me miss ditch hazards...I am all in!!!!


who looks at there speedo to figure out when to brake?...no one ...get rid of it!

who needs 112 extra pounds of suspension?....PUSSIES...that's who!

Hey Switchy......relax. Go make a sandwich or have a glass of milk or something. We're just poking fun. No reason to have a stroke and shit your panties about anything in here.





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same here just messin with the Sasquatch.

 

:bc:

Keep the parts. It absolutely helps with resale. Selling it all for $350, not worth it, you will sell it faster and for more with ES. I did the same on my 14 Pro-R, took it off when I had it, put it back on to sell it. Most people are pussies and won't buy without ES.

I suppose but I think once these hit a certain amount of miles, they start to become more affordable to the "youngsters", and they all want pull-start. I sold my e-start shit in one day and pocketed the $350 for upgrades.

So I think I'm going to go with the lithium battery and save MOST of the weight so I can update IDD on the sled.

Some great discussion--and we are just talking about losing FORTY POUNDS--all told with the Bikeman pipe/can--right? So that's 8% if the sleds weight--GONE. OFF THE FRONT. Wheelie nice!

I don't stud it either. Small storage bag only. BTW--Selling the big rack, pack and sidebags that came with it.

I'm not sure what exactly what you'd save with the Axys. My weight savings were on my Doo but they compare closely in weight. I think the exact was -40.6 lbs but that was with going with SPI trail can and pipe and of course losing the e-start. Did it make a difference? HA! Took me another 100-150 miles to recalibrate the ENTIRE suspension. -40 on the front end....HUGE!!!!

The big thing is the rotating mass.
What sense does it make to have a lightweight crankshaft then bolt a heavy estart clutch on it?You are back to the weight of a full circle crank.

This is why I always laugh at the cat guys that brag about their 800 power on the dyno.
They need 10 more hp to start with to get that big heavy cat clutch spinning.

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Agreed. That is one big hunk-o metal up there. Jeez!

 

Keep the parts. It absolutely helps with resale. Selling it all for $350, not worth it, you will sell it faster and for more with ES. I did the same on my 14 Pro-R, took it off when I had it, put it back on to sell it. Most people are pussies and won't buy without ES.