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I was down on the river on Saturday. Conditions were glare ice (no lubrication) - perfect for some drag racing! A local place where all the hot sleds go to do a little racin'.

I got down there and lined up a couple of times. Pinned the throttle and just sat there and spun! (I have about 153 give or take - based on the 144 pattern, but filled in the empty lugs - 1.175 Woody's Mega-Bites down the center).

Jumped on my ZR8 with 192 1.175's and it did the same thing - sat and spun.

My dad has an '03ZL8 with 144 1.175's down the center and it hooks up!

So, looked at the setup a little closer. The only difference between the ZL and ZR was the ZR and F7 have coupling blocks. So, off they came! It really helped.

The F7 still doesn't hook up like the ZR or ZL (I attribute this to the narrow track and fewer scratch lines), but still hooks up better without the coupling blocks. Also, it improved my top-speed by about 3mph (may have been a better tail wind, too). I saw 115mph on the GPS.

Yesterday, I went out and did some trail riding. I didn't have the time to put the blocks back in - so I said "What the heck".

Boy, does this thing ever turn now! I have the blocks out, the front shock all the way loose, and the rear blocks on the medium setting (I weigh 160lbs).
The sleds really carves around the turns now!

Question - any theories as to why this setup works for me? I prefer this sled without the coupling! And I didn't seem to notice any drawbacks. Although, I wasn't in any real junk...

Thanks!!

Chris

BTW - I beat a REV800, ZR8 Carb(my other sled), ZL8 EFI(Dad), and beat a Bender piped SRX700. Although, the SRX has the same top-end as me. (My GPS read 115mph!)
 

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I also tried taking the block out this past weekend. I rode about 10 miles and put them back in! <_< I noticed a more compliant (read softer) ride, but also noticed more ski lift.

My settings are as follows: Sno Pro suspension.

#1 setting on the spring blocks
lossened front skid shock as much as possible
lossened front shock (3 1/4" of thread)
1/4" toe out
Limiters all the way out

Here's my take on the coupler block thing. I think that for the lighter riders, the couplers provide too stiff of a ride. For me, being heavier, I need the coupling in order to get the ride that I want without constantly bottoming. I also think it depends on the type of riding that you do, if you are on groomed trails all of the time and nearly never hit any bumps, then leaving the blocks out will give you more of a cushy ride. If you ride any amount of bumps, then leave the blocks in. IMO.
 

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I too found out too, Also being heavier (205) the couple blocks works real well for me on the #1 setting. I tried it without them and all I did was wheelie every time I hit the throttle. With the blocks in ski lift was about 10 -12 inches. Which works the best for me.
 

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I didn't think I would like them out but I think it is much more "cat like" and haven't put them back.
 

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Originally posted by cat716@Jan 27 2003, 01:14 PM
I didn't think I would like them out but I think it is much more "cat like" and haven't put them back.
Exactly what does that mean?
 

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I did try it with them out but with my 255 lbs it did bottom out (only have the spring blocks on #2 each side) when hitting the bumpy trails. The sled does handle better in the corners with them out for me but for now going to leave the coupling blocks on #1 to handle the bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did notice a bit more ski lift - but it sure wasn't bad. It is now 'Cat like'.

Does anybody remember reading an article (I don't remember who / what / when / where) where an AC Engineer said they added the blocks because the public wanted them - not because they thought they were needed? Or, was that just my drunken dream? ;)

Yes, I did notice the ride to be a little more cushy. But I also like the weight transfer now.

I'll carry the blocks and an allen wrench with me for the next time I'm in some junk....

Chris
 

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Took mine out, like it, ski lift wasn't as much, ride is softer though.. but I will deal with that
 
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