Hardcore Sledder banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Super Advanced Lummox
Joined
·
17,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after himming and hawing on wether to use JB weld or use a plate to fix my egged out hole on the rails I got really :cn: :fluffy: :help:

And decided to move everything back one hole on the rear shock/scissor

I moved the rear scissor back a hole

Then I moved the front scissor/Idler back a hole(from the one with the slight egged out hole ) :cn:

holy it is hard to put the springs into place :smashpc:

Finally got them in after trying 3 diferent ways and 2 hrs to figure out how too

Aka 5 minute job if I had someone to help need that 3rd hand you know

Slap the sled on it side,put the suspension back in

Bolt the front was easy :beer:

Now for the rear mount

Well because I moved the reahock assembly back one hole there was no way in hell of getting the suspension to bolt into the original hole

I then note the lower hole,but no go neither :doh:

So since Cat provided about 4 extra holes locations(only one is drill right through),and seem to line up darn close,I took out the 3/8 drill bit and drill the 2nd hole all the way through

10minutes later the suspension is now on :banana:

Idoubt this will be that bad,my Indy 500s had 2 mounting positions also and I always bolt them on the lower one,so it should be the basic same for the Cat

here are some pics of the mounting location

Still have to tighten track and but middle idlers back in,was getting too dark

PS it sucks doing this outside when leaves are falling,got no garage this time of year :help:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
861 Posts
I hope it doesn't screw up the geometry of the skid, maybe you'll get lucky and get a better angle of attack on the track+ More traction. I just drilled a 3/16ths inch peice of aluminum to fitt over three of the hole's (the one in the center being the egged out one) and bolted it on the outside of the rail, the only other thing I changed was the aluminum bushing that holds the bottom of the springs to the rail, I ground off 3/16" to match the spring location.I rode it 2700 miles before I added 04 900 rails last year. It took like 20 minutes start to finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,538 Posts
if you cut the top part off the plastic spring holder they are a hell of alot easier to get on. also you can just get a brass(or bronze, i forget) bushing and drill out the hole and put it in there. look through my threads and you will find it, i dont got time at the moment, sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,372 Posts
I dropped that mounting plate and moved it back 5" when I extended mine to 136". Didn't feel any more tippiness with mine, but yours is still a shorttrack, so you might.
 

·
Super Advanced Lummox
Joined
·
17,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Because I moved the rail mounting back a hole front and back I had to relocate the mounting on the tunnel to ensure proper fit and nothing to do with the track

I just bought a coupling kit yesterday so we will see what going to happen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Freeze... I may hear read it wrong, but did you flip your rear springs on before you installed the rear bolts?? Just asking. If so, that's where the hard install is coming from!
My front shock hole also ovaled out. I moved mine forward one hole, didn't make any difference that I can tell.
We made up a spring tool for the rears as well... looks like a long T handle the 2 fingers on the end. Has to be hardened steel, or it will just twist. But much easier to re and re the skid now. Ask a Cat Master... thats where we stole the idea.
I can install my skid, bolt it up and flipe the springs and adjust the track in 10 to 15 minutes. MAX

And no, it's not tippy mounted under the rail. Just more ski pressure.
 

·
Super Advanced Lummox
Joined
·
17,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ya the springs were all set before installation

I have always done that with my Sc10,My SRV and my Indies

So you are say I should wait to set the springs till after I bolt the skid :cn:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,228 Posts
freeze leave the springs off the front keepers then install the rear mount bolts......way easier. You will need 3 hands or a bar to snap the springs and bolt them to the keepers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Oh I bet the air was blue around Sudbury!!
Yah, much easier installing with the springs off, that back arm can be move all over the place, but once those spring are flip on... solid!
You can also slide the skid into the track easier becasue it colapes down. Still find it easier to roll the sled on it's side to install the rearend.
I'm considering cutting my slide blocks for easier installation as one of the guys mentioned.
I will take a pic of the slick little tool we use! :tease:

Suggestion for you... bump the springs off... unbolt the rear and move your bolt ahead one hole on the top mount. I had mine in the second hole for a bit... didn't like it there!! Was too steep of an angle on the rear arm and it rode soft!.
:banana:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
had same problem on my 98. Since I already had the skid out took off everything and had my rails welded for $75 ( beefed up also at that point) and just redrilled the holes . Worked Sweet.
 

·
Super Advanced Lummox
Joined
·
17,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am installing the AC coupler kit :) and spring guides I bought friday or sometime next week

So I will try your method

But like I mentioned I also moved the front hole back 1 so that is why I thought I had to mount the skid further back in the tunnel see pic #2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
431 Posts
This is just a guess but now that you moved it all back and put the rear sissor arm closer to the rear axle, when the sus is loaded and wieght transfers, wont that put the rear sissor arm into the rear wheels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
Their is a bunch of different ways to put the skid back in, I think I've tried most of them. It turns into a finger pinching, cuss-fest normaly. Defianatly cut slots in the front spring retainers (props to A G, arcticchat for this one). That way you can bolt everything up tight and leave the springs free. Bolt up the tunnel bolts and snap the spings in place, works awesome. :div20:

On the egged out rail deal, I used some 1.00" x .5" aluminum stock, drilled a hole for the bolt, then tapped two holes on both sides for 3/8-16 bolts. Than I made a bushing out of aluminum that was .5" shorter and larger in diameter so the spring retainer would fit on there with a lot less slop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
390 Posts
Originally posted by badcat@Nov 9 2005, 07:26 PM
had same problem on my 98. Since I already had the skid out took off everything and had my rails welded for $75 ( beefed up also at that point) and just redrilled the holes . Worked Sweet.
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=994033
[/quote]

This would have been my choice as well. I'm getting the tunnel welded now on my sled cause the hole was enlarged where the rear of the skid bolts up to the tunnel.
 

·
Registered
2021 VR1 850, 18 Tiger 8000, 17 RS 6000, 16 ZR 6000, 12 F1100T, 11 EXT 800, 09 Z1 Turbo, 05 ZR 900
Joined
·
10,328 Posts
Originally posted by FreezerBurnt@Nov 9 2005, 01:29 PM
So you are say I should wait to set the springs till after I bolt the skid :cn:
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=993627
[/quote]

Yep, dude you just changed the whole geometry of your rear suspension by moving those rear bolts out of the tunnel, I'd move them back up.

Moving the rear arm back one hole will stiffen the rear suspension and decrease transfer.
Moving the rear arm foward one hole will soften the rear suspension an increase transfer.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top