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Discussion Starter #1
i was running around a little track, and when i hit some big bumps, it feels like i have basically no rear suspension. i had to slow down, because i would otherwise hit them way to hard. and there was this kid on a pro-x, and he was flying around like nothing. how should the suspension be set for hitting the bumps? do you guys think i should try different springs?
 

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Before you go & spend any $$ play with your suspention. Crank up the rear springs. You have triangle adjuster blocks in the back. Your spark plug wrench will fit & turn them to stiffen or soften the springs.

Safety Note: When adjusting go from; low - med - high - high - med - low. Never adjust from high directly to low or vice versa - injury & damage may occur. **taken from Cat service manual**
 

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If the adjusters just can't give you enough spring then AC has a multitude of optional springs. See your dealer for help there. Installation by the dealer wouldn't take any more than an hour tops. Likely closer to 1/2 hour with the specialty tools they have.
 

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You can move the rear arm back in the skid too.Play with it before you spend any money it.There's lot's of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you guys are saying there is lots adjustments, and i am wondering how to do them ;) . i know how to turn the front spring/shock to stiffen it up, but i never played with the rear. all the limiter straps, and adjuster blocks, springs and shocks. if i stiffen up the rear suspension, will i notice it in other terrain?
 

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Originally posted by lou@Feb 4 2003, 08:25 AM
You can move the rear arm back in the skid too.Play with it before you spend any money it.There's lot's of adjustment.
I'm wondering what the scoop is on moving the rear arm around and what effect it has to move it one way or another. Please advise.

Thanks,

-Couch
 

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Discussion Starter #9
you think i should recharge my shocks? they`ve got about 1500 mi., and i`m planning on selling it soon....how much is it usually to rebuild the shocks?

i have my adjuster blocks on the highest setting, it`s a little better, but it still didn`t do it. what happens if i tighten/loosen the limiter straps?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i got my rear shock rebuilt, and it doesn`t bottom out as hard/ or as often as it did before. but i still need it way stiffer. i`ve got my adjuster blocks on the highest setting. any one know much about moving the rear arm around? what should i expect to pay for new stiffer rear springs?
 

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Move your Scissors it is the best way to stiffen your rear suspension without re-valving shocks. Move it back one hole. The differnce will be very noticeable. You may be able to back off your springs too.
 

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When I moved my rear arm back I didn't like how it felt. I lost some travel, and because it was fully coupled almost instantly, it handled very differently. I had a lot less ski lift, but it seemed like the sled didn't handle as well. After I tried that, I bought bigger springs, and when I installed them I moved the arm back to the stock hole. I still bottom out constantly, but at least the dynamics of my sled are back how I like them. Now it's time to get shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i like snocross, and my sled just dosn`t have a clue. my brother has a 97 cougar, and that handles the bumps so much better then my 01 zr 600. my suspension seems to find every tiny bump, and make me eat it to. there`s gotta be a way to make it not so sensative. i moved my rear arm back, and it helped a bit, but it still bottoms out and hits other bumps way to hard.
 

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Spend the US$40.00-60.00 and get some new springs. If you're handy at all you can install them yourself.
You might first want to try the Black Magic billet aluminum spring adjuster cams. They offer a 30% greater rise which will stiffen your ride. And you can keep them for your next Cat when you trade up later.
 

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Go out and buy the heavy duty springs and have your shocks revalved it you wanna run a snocross set up. Springs are cheap, $40 something like that. Its a job putting them in, did it on my 99 ZR600 and it stiffened it up big time. Possibly too much, but it can handle big bumps now.
 

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Well green it comes down to how much you want to spend. The other question is how big are you? I go 6'-3 and at about 260. I have a 98 ZRT and I did quite a bit of work to keep it from bottoming out so bad. First thing I agree with Jim, you can move rear scissors back but I too didn't like the loss in travel so I returned them ot their original position. I installed a larger coil over sping on the center shock and had the center shock rebuilt. I installed a new Kimpex Gold rear shock since the original AC shock had never been rebuilt or replaced. I installed new larger AC big boy springs and new aluminum spring tensioner blocks that are larger and provide greater pre-load. Is it stiffer, you bet. Does it still bottom out? Yes, but not as hard and not as often. Is the suspension built for guys like me--no. When talking with AC dealers and here on the forum the suspension is designed for a 180-185 lbs rider. Anything over that and now you are trying to fit 10lbs of doodoo in a 5lbs bag. The other thing is you can't just sit on the seat, you have to ride the whoops out on the trail and if you have to take a more aggresive riding style. Other option-- buy a new F7. Rode my buddy's and WOW-- what a difference. Good luck! B)
 

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Ok, Since noone would answer my questing in my post I'll come over here. On the rear adjuster blocks there is a indented space on them, should that indented space be on the top of the block for the stiffest setting you can acheive with the blocks? If not what possition would make it the stiffest?
 

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03 zr.. the adj blocks are a triangle with 3 diff thicknesses. the thickest being the stiffest setting... again. adjust from low to med to high, and high to med. to low
 
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