[ronski]

Got a question,

Just installed an AC coupler kit on my 02 ZL6 and wonder what the settings actually do for performance. I have been told to adjust them so the rear arm contact them sooner but don't fully understand why?

Any thoughts from you folks

Thanks and this and AS have been the two best boards if you ride a cat!

Ronski

 

[team arctic]

ronski, adjusting the blocks so the arms hit sooner will give you less weight transfer and better handling because you are keeping more pressure on the skis. The downside is that you will loose traction and get more track spin. The amount of adjustment you have is subtle, but I think you will love the coupled suspension...Marc

 

[jay]

Ronski,

Check this post out

http://www.firecat.info/index.php?act=ST&f=7&t=149

BTW: Is this the same Ronski that post on IP.com??

 

[ronski]

Thanks Marc and Jay,

Good information and baised on what was said, I will start with the highest number for early coupling. I put around 900 miles on the machine last year and had only 3 complaints

1) The machine just loved to drink oil. I got less than 300 miles on first gallon of injection oil. I have turned the pump back around 1/8" and now am close to 50:1...running Klotz (been using on cats since 1989)

2) The exhaust is still louder than I would like but that is life

3) The rear suspension...plenty of travel but way to much kick back for me. I hope that the coupling kit helps that. The machine liked to push into the corners and again I think the coupling should help.

Ronski.....not the one who posts on IP. I only post here and on AS

 

[yo momma]

Just coupled my suspension on 00 ZL500 two days ago (Sled Pro system). Tried it out (220lbs.) Would recommend as an awesome addition to an already excellent sled. Inside ski did not lift during sharp turning at speed. More secure ride. Woody's Dooley's 6" work well with 120 studs. Traction is consistent and secure throughout the speed range. Noticeable difference from previous AC single carbide. Just added overload spring blocks (Hi Performance) yesterday and will try out today and report back. If anyone has info on actual field use of a Tour Buddy let me know.

Mark

 

[SPUDAC]

I set my zl 800 up with the AC coupler kit last year but I had to remake the arm in the kit to fit the ZL. I have used the Boivin kit in the past but I didn't like to lose the couple of inches of travel that you lose with the Boivin. Is AC making the kit to fit ZL's this year? I set my sled up with a Tour Buddy tank and wouldn't sled without it. No problems and the extra range is great on the long, wild stretches up in NB and Quebec that we ride. Helps avoid some of those dollar a liter gas stops. When is AC going to wake up and put the coupler on the ZL's from the factory. I can't figure those guys out sometimes.

 

[mr-zr]

Hmm

You lose 1-2 inches of travel using the Kit from CAT!!!! ALSO!!

they make you move your REAR Arm to the 2nd Hole when it should be in the 3rd for the most ride Height!.

I had one installed on my 800 (01) and had to move the arms.
lost travel!

I used a set of limiter straps on my 98 (600) and for the $20 compared to $190.00 to stop the Weight transfer and it allowed me to keep the Rear arm in the Correct Hole!

the straps work better has they have more range of adjustents !!!

 

[jay]

You don't lose travel by using a coupling kit! The travel of the suspension is based on the stroke of the shock, so unless you changed your shock, your travel didn't change.

 

[SPUDAC]

The AC kit that I put on is the same as the standard issue on 02 and newer ZR's and did not require moving the rear scissor. There was no impact on sled height when installed and no impact on suspension travel. The scissor position IS changed with the Boivin kit, which is often sold at AC dealers, and when it is installed it does lower the rear of the sled and limit travel. I am not knocking the Boivin kit because in my opinion it does greatly improve the ride and handling of the uncoupled AC sleds. I have had both and prefer the AC blocks to the Boivin system. The problem I had last year is that AC did not make their kit applicable to the ZL. The hole for the shock to mount on the scissor had to be moved out which required some welding and a new hole be drilled. Otherwise the shock shaft would hit.

 

[mr-zr]

"jay"

You should check the rear arm on your machine and then check the Performance manual YOU DO LOSE TREVEL by moving the arm thus creating either more or less weight transfer .


Wnat to try it move the arm to the closed bolt Hmm scissors move inwards greating less travel as the scissors have less distance to move !

move the bolt to the 3rd or 4th hole and you have more travel in the scissors.

this does effect the right height.

I

 

[mr-zr]

Actaully sorry it doesnt effect the ride height but does effect the travel -- less or more distance .

all 2002 and 2003 machine with coupler kits come from the factory in the 2nd bolt hole



go to your dealers and look at the sleds...

 

[arctic rider]

im not coupling mine, seeing that it gives less traction in deeper powder and wieghing only 128 pound i need to have as much traction as possible anywhere, also i found that to keep the skis down in turns i just keep turnings and give it more... but next year on the f7 i will wiegh more hopefully haha, am i the only one trying to gain weight?

 

[jay]

Once again, travel is dictated by the stroke of the shock!!!!!!! Just because the factories try to convince people that they have the most amount of travel, they come up with whatever crazy way to measure travel that they can justify. Just think about it for a minute. I have moved my arm, changed to a coupled rear suspension, blah blah blah... The stroke of the shock never changed!!!! The travel of the scissor may change, but not the travel of the shock. Maybe you should go to your dealer and look??

 

[msmith]

I just received my skid frame coupling block kit. (p/n 2639-231) i am installing it on my new 2002 ZRT 600.
The Idler Arm that comes with the kit (0704-729) looks the same as the existing Idler Arm (0704-633)
Do have to change it out, can't find anything different, :wacko: it would save a lot of work?
I have the Boivin kit, on my wife's 1998 ZL 500, works great.

 

[mr-zr]

Jay Jay JAy , Must I do it all .

ok go to the 2001 or 2002 or even the new 2003 performance manual
made by ARCTIC CAT FOR ARCTIC CATS . on page 6-7 under suspension I QUOTE

" The Drawbacks of moving the rear arm forward are that the suspension may bottom out quicker and some travel is lost"


man YOu have lost this argument ... PERIOD . ARCTIC SAYS SO. THEY HAVE DESIGNED THAT SUSPENSION!!

 

[jay]

Originally posted by mr-zr@Dec 10 2002, 12:06 AM
man YOu have lost this argument ...

I don't give up that easy!!! LOL!!

The problem is that when Arctic Cat measures travel, they measure from the rear bumper, they do not measure from the slide rail to the upper shaft, which is the true travel. So, I'm sorry, but Cat is refering to "ride height" and not travel. I think that Cat has been proven wrong before, so jsut cause its "says so in the manual" doesn't necessarily mean its 100% correct.

Please just realize that the travel (true travel) is limited by the stroke of the shock, and what Arctic Cat tells you and me is travel, is really ride height. Do you really think that your ZR has 13.5" of suspension travel??? The shock would have to be over 27" long for that to happen!!!! Think about it!!! In actuality the ZR's have about 8.5"-9.0" of true travel.

Whew! Make any sense??

 

[jay]

Mr-Zr,

I'm waiting........................... LOL!!!

 

[mr-zr]

WOW !!


Lol No I know that my AC does not have 13.5 of true travel but just for kicks .

I have a couple of shocks that are 23 inches long (shock rod) and I CAN GUARENTEE that if I put one in the travel will not change .
Why jay why!! because the arm is limited to the length .
I agree with what your saying about the shock but I still say that if the arm is moved forwards or backwards you will either go to stock travel or you will lose some travel >

now Im talking about moving those scissors forwards will give you faster transfer but agian less travel as teh arm is bent less collapse. bring it back more travel go out side and try it . I dont give a rats ass where you mesaure there will be a difference go try it ... GO GO GO GO! I have tried it and I all ready know the results ..

 

[SPUDAC]

Originally posted by msmith@Dec 9 2002, 10:35 PM
I just received my skid frame coupling block kit. (p/n 2639-231) i am installing it on my new 2002 ZRT 600.
The Idler Arm that comes with the kit (0704-729) looks the same as the existing Idler Arm (0704-633)
Do have to change it out, can't find anything different,  :wacko: it would save a lot of work?
I have the Boivin kit, on my wife's 1998 ZL 500, works great.

The arm that is sent in the kit is heavier to take the pounding of the coupling against the arm. I asked the same question last year and the tech weighed the two parts as he could see no difference either. The new idler arm was heavier. Based on that I went ahead and changed it out as I didn't want to end up in Tinbucktoo with a broken idler. AC stated the tubing is stronger.

 

[jay]

Originally posted by mr-zr@Dec 10 2002, 01:07 AM
I dont give a rats ass where you mesaure there will be a difference go try it ... GO GO GO GO! I have tried it and I all ready know the results ..

Leave the poor rats alone!!! LMAO!!!

I still disagree, but will gladly humor you and the next chance I get I will check.