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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a leftover '04 F7 in August. I was just wondering if it is common that all of the updates should have already been done. I am concerned about the oil light sensor update and maybe any other important ones. Is there anyone on here that can run my VIN to see if it has been updated appropriately. Thanks, D :beerchug:
 

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I can... but it doesn't mean they actually did them, only it says it.. PM me your vin.. also. the only "real" important one, is the coolant hose .. to cut out an inch of it.
 

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i agree with dan ^^ i even talked to arctic cat about my 04 and it said all updates were done - the re-jet was done, but the clutch shim, and oil sensor wasn't.
 

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the only "real" important one, is the coolant hose .. to cut out an inch of it.
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I definitely agree with the coolant hose one. My buddy had his wear through and mine was paper thin and about to. Really would've hated for it to completely wear through on the trail.
 

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whats the deal with the coolant hose? me and my brother both have 04 f7's we both recieved the new oil sensor but this is the 1st i heard of the coolant hose
 

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lay sled on left side over cardboard, pull all torx screws securing bellypan and remove, look at coolant hose going from front exchanger (lower right corner as sitting on sled) to engine(underneath), there should be at least 3/16'' to 5/16'' minimum clearance between lower bulkhead panel(aluminum) and hose, if not, clamp off hose as close to engine end as possible, clamp off hose that runs to left rail exchanger also(saves tons of coolant), remove clamp on hose at aforementioned lower right exchanger connection, pull hose, slice 1'' off end of hose, re-attach, re-assemble bellypan/torx screws, upright machine, remove clamp from left rail hose, re-top coolant bottle to account for small loss of some coolant, run on stand to warm up coolant/open thermostat, watch carefully for any larger air bubbles in bottles lower passage(light aimed at aluminum behind bottle that reflects through tube works awesome), let cool down, re-check level, if slightly low (1/4'' or less) refill, cap it and enjoy, if more than 5/16'', repeat top off/ bleed one more time (hardly ever necessary unless complete system drained) :div20:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That kinda stinks. You'd hope that when you pay 6k+ for a machine , that all of these kinks would be taken care of by the dealer. I hate not knowing if they were done or not. How would I know if the shim was done on the clutch or the oil sensor? :dunno:
 

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Originally posted by ill_caper@Oct 7 2005, 05:03 PM
That kinda stinks. You'd hope that when you pay 6k+ for a machine , that all of these kinks would be taken care of by the dealer. I hate not knowing if they were done or not. How would I know if the shim was done on the clutch or the oil sensor?  :dunno:
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oh you'll know if the sensor wasn't done,,,,the light will come on at an alarmingly early time after filling oil tank( approx 40-70 miles later depending on where your oil pumps adjustment rod is adjusted and how thin the oil itself is), the updated comes on closer to 140-170 miles after filling,,,,, the belt will ''suck'' down into secondary upon harsh engagement creating noticeable ''bog'' for short time
 

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Originally posted by zr7cat@Oct 8 2005, 06:38 AM
Would this be the same for the 04 F6 Rusty?
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oil sensor, yes, shim, depending on vin #s(some yes/some no) your dads would've been more than noticeable, so more than likely no :banana: , these are taken care of at setup time, so far the only update not installed by cat is the 05 m sleds dd long bolt through the drive axle(still haven't recieved kits yet) :beerchug: i'll get that brochure over today, thanks shawn :div20:
 

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i removed my belly pan and unhooked the hose from the tunnel and the bottom was a little warn not bad at all though, then i felt the top of the hose where it was rubbing on the bottom of the engine and it is really thin, but my question is whats the best way to get the hose off of the motor it has a locking clamp on it! in going to get a new hose and sleve it with the old hose where it rubs, that depends on if there is a easy way to get the old hose off the bottom of the motor, any suggestions are greatly appreciated! buy the way it doesnt look like its going to be easy to get another clamp on the hose connecting to the bottom of the motor
 

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Originally posted by GreenFuelBoyz@Oct 8 2005, 07:12 PM
i removed my belly pan and unhooked the hose from the tunnel and the bottom was a little warn not bad at all though, then i felt the top of the hose where it was rubbing on the bottom of the engine and it is really thin, but my question is whats the best way to get the hose off of the motor it has a locking clamp on it! in going to get a new hose and sleve it with the old hose where it rubs, that depends on if there is a easy way to get the old hose off the bottom of the motor, any suggestions are greatly appreciated! buy the way it doesnt look like its going to be easy to get another clamp on the hose connecting to the bottom of the motor
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sounds like update may have been already done after a little riding(possible ''demo'' sled :dunno: ) was the gap at the hose to bulkhead lowest plate around 1/4'' or was it larger?(creating ''rub'' on top of hose from cases?)

get a good long set of side cutters, cut off that clamp, replace it with a worm gear style clamp(gonna' take some work without specialty tools) :div20:
 

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Can't you take those clamps off with a flat screwdriver? I was able to do that on the 03 I rebuilt.
 

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Originally posted by bluebear@Oct 9 2005, 12:19 AM
Can't you take those clamps off with a flat screwdriver?  I was able to do that on the 03 I rebuilt.
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you talkin' the ''crimped'' solid ones??, easier to cut then just replace
 

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I took mine off with a screwdriver. You can put it back on with some pliers, but it may take a few tries. A word of advice if you reuse the clamp, try it before you put it on. I bent mine a little bit and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get it on. Then I tried it off the sled and found out I bent it a bit. A worm clamp will make sure its in place and stays, but a little tedious since its in such a tight spot.
 

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the hose was rubbing on the bottom there was no gap, but it was also rubbing on the top which was the thinest spot, getting the clamp off isnt my biggest worry its getting a new clamp on in that tight spot, how much psi does the coolant system have would a squez clamp work?
 

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Originally posted by GreenFuelBoyz@Oct 9 2005, 10:03 AM
the hose was rubbing on the bottom there was no gap, but it was also rubbing on the top which was the thinest spot, getting the clamp off isnt my biggest worry its getting a new clamp on in that tight spot, how much psi does the coolant system have would a squez clamp work?
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13-15 lbs max,,,,, hose musta' been installed''twisted'' to cause top contact and bottom also, after cutting better than 90 last year, can't recall any hitting on cases before or after procedure :dunno:
 

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Does the hoes issue affect any year F5's?
 
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