Im having the same problem Redteam. Though I don't think I can fix it until we get out riding on the trails. It's cool to pull wheelies for a bit, then it gets old. Being able to turn is much better option. I'm going to screw with the front preload and the center shock. Maybe turn my cam back to one. Like I said though, I'll have to wait for the trails to be sure. Although at 30, standing and cracking the throttle is a good feeling when you blow by your buddy only on your track. It's good mental horsepower!!
PUSH!
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My sled pushes awful, so i cranked the front springs all the way and put the rear spring block at 3 (overload blocks too), and that did make a difference, but i want to get bigger coupling bnlocks since the weight transfer is too much. When I hammer it, the front end lifts and i can't steer except with my ass and the track. No good.
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3,023 Posts
Guys, some suggestions.
First of all, make sure that the COUPLING blocks are on 3, while the spring blocks higher will also help, the coupling blocks will make more of an impact.
Second, I would not touch the front ski springs yet, try to loosen the front track spring.
Lastly, if you still are experiencing problems, tighten the limiter straps.
Just my opinion, for what its worth.
First of all, make sure that the COUPLING blocks are on 3, while the spring blocks higher will also help, the coupling blocks will make more of an impact.
Second, I would not touch the front ski springs yet, try to loosen the front track spring.
Lastly, if you still are experiencing problems, tighten the limiter straps.
Just my opinion, for what its worth.
G
Guest
·I have heard of guys drilling new holes in there limiter strap, from my understanding talking to my mechanic at the dealer he said that the old 84's and older sleds they had to do the same thing too, he said it worked out great for him, let me know if you have heard of this as well I am planning on this to work for me although I only weigh 170 lbs alot easier for me than some guys.
I bet AD Boivin will come out with some sort of a kit to couple the rear
tighter than the stock setup. It probably wouldn't be hard to make
a set of thicker coupling blocks. I would rather have flatter cornering
than excessive transfer.
tighter than the stock setup. It probably wouldn't be hard to make
a set of thicker coupling blocks. I would rather have flatter cornering
than excessive transfer.
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3,928 Posts
WILL ADJUSTING THE WEIGHT TRANSFER BLOCKS IN THE REAR EFFECT THE RIDE QUALITY??, I NEED THE FRONT END TO STAY ON THE GROUND ALSO
I'd say to leave the limiter straps alone for now.. We need to get more seat time first. I still think aftermarket skis may be a good idea, and I'm working on getting the forum a few pairs of skis for a test. I'll need volunteers to help test them, of course 
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3,023 Posts
oooohhhh, oooooohhhh , ooooohhhh. Am I the first to raise my hand?? LOL!!!!Originally posted by rob@Dec 6 2002, 01:43 PM
, and I'm working on getting the forum a few pairs of skis for a test. I'll need volunteers to help test them, of course
Once I get some more seat time, I will post a review of the C&A's that I am running.
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295 Posts
I have C&A's , but I haven't put them on yet. My couplers are already at 3 and that 1.5" transfer is still too much. My doo was very small at ~.5". If I am racing guys corner to corner, I need to steer not wheelie!. I wanted to see how the stockers hold up[ after my adjustments. I would be interested in trying some ski's for the good of the forum though
I don't have a ton of seat time on my sled yet (25 miles), I never ran it with stocker skis b/c I put C & A Pro skis (race version) on from the start, and the snow conditions I have run on are limited. That being said, I did not notice any significant or noticeable push. Maybe this will change after I get more seat time, but I can't say for certain. With C & As on my other sled, push has not been an issue. The deep keel is a significant factor, I think. Granted, I am partial to C & A as much as I am to Cat, but I have had great luck with these skis. Dan is working on special pricing for HCS members, so don't run out an buy a set over the weekend.
I HAVE PUT 160 MILES ON MY FIRECAT-IT SIEZED A RING IN THE FIRST 2 MILES, PULLED THE PLUGS AND ADDED SOME AMSOIL-WIGGLED CLUTCH UNTIL IT LOOSEND AND REINSTALLED PLUGS-RUNS GOOD BUT ITS IN THE DEALER NOW-BUT I DID HAVE A VERY HARD TIME KEEPING THE FRONT END DOWN-I DID ADJUST FRONT SHOCKS BUT THATS NOT THE PROBLEM WHEN SKIS ARE OFF THE GROUND-WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS A CURE YET?
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71 Posts
Rob, I would like to try the slp powder skis if it is possible...
Let me know u have my email. oh and by the way thanks again for this site...
Let me know u have my email. oh and by the way thanks again for this site...
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364 Posts
These girls do push!!!! the best fix that we have found is to put the coupler blocks on 3 , loosen the front skid spring, so you have one turn of preload, tighten the front springs up and tap the brake in the corners to set your skis! C&A's help also.
IT'S NEVER GOING TO CORNER LIKE A ZR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IT'S NEVER GOING TO CORNER LIKE A ZR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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728 Posts
ill be tester rob..just make sure u get orange skis to test ! haha ill throw em on my orange beast h34r:
h34r:
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609 Posts
Want to keep the front skis down? My sled is still has the dealer set up, and I am not having a a big problem.
The little trail riding we do, we just stayed forward and lean inside. was taking some of the corners pretty fast with only little ski lift.
The little trail riding we do, we just stayed forward and lean inside. was taking some of the corners pretty fast with only little ski lift.
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