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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have a 04 ProXR 800 that I bought 2 years ago. We had almost no snow here and I only put 200 miles on last year. I am working on making my usual improvements to the sled now that I can ride it this year, but have a few questions. Currently, the sled is completely stock, I am planning the following mods;

-Two SLP Flow-rites
-SLP High Flow Air horn
-Boysen Reeds
-Stiffer Primary spring (currently engages at 3500...shooting for 4500)

What would be a good starting point for jetting at low elevations (0-2000 ft) with the slp flow products installed?

Also, I have found that when I grap a fistful of throttle, the engine revs immediately to 7G, and then climbs slowly to 7800 or so, but seldom hits 8G. It was pretty warm (-10 to -15 C) this weekend ; could this be a result of jetting only, or is something hanging up in my secondary? Would heavier weights on the primary and a stiffer spring on the secondary help out with this?

Also, I am currently topping out around 95 mph on hardpack; I know this sled is geared for the X-track, but can I get some higher speeds with clutching alone or am I going to need to go to gearing? CLearly I don't have much experience with the Team roller clutches as I have been riding sleds with the slider clutches for years.

Also, does anyone know why the 800 doesn't require a boost bottle (no holes in the carb boots for it and I was told by a dealer I didn't require it with no explanation).

Thanks all...
 

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Jet to 430 mains, stock needle, fuel screws in 1/4 turn from stock settings, and air screws to stock. (confirm the settings with your owner's manual supplement, they usually are not set properly stock). Also tighten the throttle cable freeplay, and adjust the throttle stop screw to let the carbs go full throttle. The 800XR's I have looked at had the slides hanging in the bores by 1/8", not full throttle. You want to have about .030" gap the the lever to throttle block, at full throttle the carb rack should hit the throttle stop in between the carbs. Once that is set, adjust the oil pump, so that the line on the pump arm and pump body line up when the slack is taken out of the throttle, but before the carb slides start to move.

If you haven't done so, replace the ves with stainless, and change the ves springs to green/yellow for 0-1000ft, orange/white for 1-2000ft. I would not bother with reeds, and it does not need a boost bottle because the flatslides can be tuned well with the fuel and air screws.

The slow to rev is from rich jetting, and the poor stock clutching. The stock gearing is plenty high enough for top end, at 25/40. Check the clutch alignment, and adjust the engine torque stop tight, no gap. For clutching, it depends on if you want to buy a helix or not. The stock one can work ok, but going to a different one can give better low end and midrange. Either way, go to an almond/red or erlandson yellow primary spring. If the stock helix, run 10-70 weights or dalton 70, and change the secondary spring to a newer reverse wound red/dk. blue. Also put one of the plastic washers in the spring pocket. If you want to change the helix, then keep the same primary spring, but go to 10-68 weights, put a new black secondary spring in, and either a 70/46-.46 or team 420720 helix on the steep angle. Be careful of changing the secondary spring, you need to make a tool to do it. For rpm you want 7700 or so off the line, then pull up to 7900 on a long run.
 

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I currently have a 04 ProXR 800 that I bought 2 years ago. We had almost no snow here and I only put 200 miles on last year. I am working on making my usual improvements to the sled now that I can ride it this year, but have a few questions. Currently, the sled is completely stock, I am planning the following mods;

-Two SLP Flow-rites
-SLP High Flow Air horn
-Boysen Reeds
-Stiffer Primary spring (currently engages at 3500...shooting for 4500)

What would be a good starting point for jetting at low elevations (0-2000 ft) with the slp flow products installed?

Also, I have found that when I grap a fistful of throttle, the engine revs immediately to 7G, and then climbs slowly to 7800 or so, but seldom hits 8G. It was pretty warm (-10 to -15 C) this weekend ; could this be a result of jetting only, or is something hanging up in my secondary? Would heavier weights on the primary and a stiffer spring on the secondary help out with this?

Also, I am currently topping out around 95 mph on hardpack; I know this sled is geared for the X-track, but can I get some higher speeds with clutching alone or am I going to need to go to gearing? CLearly I don't have much experience with the Team roller clutches as I have been riding sleds with the slider clutches for years.

Also, does anyone know why the 800 doesn't require a boost bottle (no holes in the carb boots for it and I was told by a dealer I didn't require it with no explanation).

Thanks all...[/b]
No boost bottle they are junk and will destroy your carb boots, get a Torquearm from either N2iroc or slp so your engine mounts wount break , do what pockets said and you will be a happy camper, i use almost the same combo of weights springs as he suggested.. try to search in the search engine and you will find tons of info... :beerchug:
 

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Turn your stator all the way to advance your timing(about 2 degrees).This will definetly help.[/b]
Brock is this something you have performed on your sled? how is this performed? do you have to lift engine out of the chassie? :beerchug:
 

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Brock is this something you have performed on your sled? how is this performed? do you have to lift engine out of the chassie? :beerchug:[/b]

you dont have to take the motor out but you do have to lift it up about 6". the cooling system does not have to drained , its about the same job as replacing your pull start cord with 3 extra steps. so get a new cord and water pump belt and go for it !
 
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Brock is this something you have performed on your sled? how is this performed? do you have to lift engine out of the chassie? :beerchug:[/b]
Yes this is what I've done with my 800 Pro XR when I first got it,total immprovement.Do everything that was suggested above by pockets and advance the timing a full 2 degrees and you'll be pleased with the outcome.As xcmark said you don't have to take the engine out.
 

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Would this be safe to do to a 2003 Pro-X 800 with Hot Seat single pipe, MBRP race can, SLP airbox, 2 SLP flowrites in dash, V-Force 3 reeds? Jetting is 460 mains, needle clip in #3, fuel screws 1.75 turns out. Pockets gave me the jetting setup last year. I've been hearing people of dropping to 450, or even 440-420? I've been checking my plugs and I think I'm a little scared to go any leaner. I'm going to try and get some pictures up and let you guys see if you think I can go leaner yet? But anyways, am I safe to advance the timing with my specs? What about if I drop the main jet size to 450's or leaner?
 

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Unless your a pro at tuning, advancing the timing from stock can get in you in trouble. Its going to be a lot more sensitive to shiity gas the closer you get to TDC. I'm no expert just my 2-cents.
 

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shortstop20, because of your hot seat single with MBRP can combo, I cannot say for sure on the jetting needs. But with 95% certainty, richer than stock is too rich. Drop one size to 450 and see what it does, for rpm change and pull. Ride it first, then jet it, and ride it right after, so that you are in the same conditions, same day. Timing advance I would be more cautious of, especially if you cannot run known good 91-93 octane fuel all the time. If you can, I would do it.
 

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Thanks for the info Pockets. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. :) I've put about 180 miles on so far this year and I have noticed that my jetting is leaner with the MBRP race can than it was last year with the stock silencer and same jetting. I realize that I would be better off with the stock can, but I just love the sound and weight loss of the MBRP. I cannot be sure that I will always have access to good 91 octane fuel at all times, so I probably should leave the timing as is for now. If I do advance the timing 2 degrees, is that 2 degrees throughout the entire RPM range? What about the regular/premium switch? I assume the regular and premium settings will both be bumped up 2 degrees? How much more advanced is the timing on premium than on regular?
 

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Yes this is what I've done with my 800 Pro XR when I first got it,total immprovement.Do everything that was suggested above by pockets and advance the timing a full 2 degrees and you'll be pleased with the outcome.As xcmark said you don't have to take the engine out.[/b]
i always get good gas (95okt), a setup by step by step procedure would be great how to advance the timing :beerchug: , do you turn the stator clockwise or counterclockwise to advance, sorry for the stupid question, but i havn´t done this in a few years now...
 

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so if you advance your timing 2 deg. and the dif between reg and prem. is 2 deg then the reg setting should be the same as stock prem. right? so then if any deto occurs you should be safe to turn it back to reg right? so 2 deg is turning the stator all the way to the stops correct.
 

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looks like a few hours of work to advance the timing :cn: .. i will have to make myself a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off so i can reach the stator, it is like oblong holes in the stator so you can turn it right? is there something one should be careful with when removing the flywheel (so it can be assembled the same), does the crank have a key so you can´t put in wrong? as i said i havnt done this in a while since i worked on some dirtbikes back in the day... thanks Brock, nice to pick up some good tips :beerchug:

oh i almost forgot do you have to adjust the TPS so the D.E.T sensor wont lower the timing every time you hold it at wot :happynewyear:
 

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If you advance the stator, the timing will be advanced on both key settings through the entire rpm range, by x amont of degrees. The premium setting is 2 degrees advance but only from 7500 rpm up. No change below that rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pockets, you said a black secondary spring if I go with a new secondary helix, but neither SLP or Erlandson give a black spring in their charts. What 2.2" and 1.1" rates would this be?
 

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im down to the flywheel now and is struggling with a flywheel puller(what a pita to reach ), soon the timing will be advanced by 2 degrees and we will see what happends... :someone who has any good tips regarding the flywheel puller...?fluffy:
 
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