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Yikes, that looks brutal! Definitely going to be switching my slides out, just have to find a place where I can get them for reasonable money. Everywhere I have been searching online has been at least $340 with shipping and handling, I did an extensive search with the Artic Cat part number (Arctic Cat 6506-119 - Piston, Valve Ca 2.0 : CyclePartsNation Arctic Cat Parts Nation for example).



Looked around through some online salvage yards, and wasn't able to find too much. Seems like Fox Distributing is still around, I will give them a call and see what they have! I went to the Mikuni Power Distributors List and they were on there (MikuniPower.com - Mikuni Distributors), but upon checking over their parts list for the TM carburetors, it looks like the throttle valves they have on there are 4.0 and not 2.0 (http://www.mikuni-foxdist.com/tmparts.pdf). Could just be the naming convention they use, but they all are like "832-43002-4.0". I can find those slides on eBay, would be awesome if they would fit. Does anyone know the model number of the Mikuni Carb on either the 1999 ZRT or the XCR? The parts list on the Fox site for TM carbs TM38-1 and 3 as well as TM38-85 and 86, but does not mention the TM38-C182, which appears to be the model number of the carb on the 1999 ZRT. Didn't know if a throttle valve for the TM38-1 and 3 or TM38-85 and 86 might work for this application. Appreciate all the help guys!
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Just found these in stock on Wahl, not sure if that would fit properly either. Does anyone on here know?

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Also, anyone have a torque arm they would recommend? I have been looking at few online, everything I have heard says that ninjaplumber's are the best. He's not too far from me in MA, so I might make the drive out there and grab one if no one has any better suggestions.I found another thread on XCR torque arms, don't worry about replying!
That looks like the right slide, just a new number. Just make sure that it's black anodized aluminum. Look up Super Link for the torque arm. SLP is another source.
 

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2001 XCR 800, Decker Piped 1996 XCR 680 SP
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You could make your own torque arm for a fraction of the cost of new. I'd get the Ninja Plumber arm if I were to spend the money, personally. Last I knew he was out of stock on them though.
 

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The Super Link torque arm is really all you need. I installed one in my 2000 almost from new. It's still working very well after many miles and lots of drag racing. But, it must be properly installed at the correct angle. Any XCR that doesn't have one will absolutely break the left front motor mount time and time again. As added proof, my sled still has the original motor mounts at over 9K miles.
Doug Flannery installed the one in my 2003 XCR 1100 at the proper angle and it handled 230 hp in repeated ice drags with a 136" race track and chisels. Do not allow any slack in the arm though as it can break under hard usage.
 

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Here's the link to the proper torque arm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Here's the link to the proper torque arm:
I had a few minutes last night to go down the basement and peek around under the hood of my XCR, as I am still getting familiar with it. Did Polaris have a torque arm installed from the factory? It seems that one of the two previous owners may have installed a torque arm, there is one that looks very much like the one seen pictured below. I may have to play around with the angle a little bit, not sure if it follows the line made between the crank and jackshaft. I think it's so cool going through the sled and seeing the small things that have been changed over the years, truly showed its previous owners care about it! Also, the clutch and water pump were rebuilt a few years ago, and I am not sure what spring is in the primary. I do know that it is white, is there another way to easily determine what the make/spring force is? Might just pony up the $30 and make sure the right spring is in there. I am crossing my fingers that when I crack open the carbs, I find some black gold in there (black anodized aluminum, that is)!


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If anyone was considering buying a ninjaplumber torque arm, he will have some more in stock over the next few weeks!
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2001 XCR 800, Decker Piped 1996 XCR 680 SP
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If you can find the helix and secondary spring, I really like how mine behaved.

EPI Maroon 185/320
10-64's balanced @ 63.5 grams
SLP 52/36 full progressive helix #40-52/36
SLP Yellow/Purple - 2nd hole / 24 lbs
21/38 Gearing

That was with
390 mains
60 pilots
Fuel screws set to 1 turn
VForce 3 reeds

Of course mine was setup for ice drags, but I did try a bit of trail riding after noticing some issues with the old shovel points, and it behaved very well in that scenario as well. Bout rip your arms off with absolute traction, with the shovel points!
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Fox Distributing 1400 Foundry st St. Charles IL 60174 (630)-513-9700, Patroiticinovations is sending you to the right place. Have the polaris part # for reference. I just bought some hard to find slides and they were great people to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
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Has anyone ran aftermarket skis they have had good luck with on their XCR? The right ski on my sled has a chunk taken out of it, and I am going to have to replace it so I figured I would get a set of them. Didn't know if there are any good options out there, or sticking with the OEM saddle ski is the best best. I am planning on picking up a set of Bergstrom triple point carbides after I get the ski situation figured out.

Fox Distributing 1400 Foundry st St. Charles IL 60174 (630)-513-9700, Patroiticinovations is sending you to the right place. Have the polaris part # for reference. I just bought some hard to find slides and they were great people to deal with.
Thanks, I will give them a call when I finally get the carbs taken apart! I have a small coolant leak out of the thermostat housing, so I will have to drain the coolant in the sled and replace the gasket. Also, there appears to be coolant sitting on the mag side of the cylider head in the sparkplug well, I am going to take the head cover off and replace the o-ring that sits between the head cover and head. The head bolt right near that cylider is actually pretty rusted, even though the other one are clean, so I think that leak has persisted for a while.
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Replaced the MBRP can the previous owner installed with the stock can, loved the sound but it's not legal around me and it has caused some pretty serious damage to the nosepan from melting it.
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Greased a few of the steering bushings, the steering seems a little vauge so I think I am going to replace the tie rod ends as well. The last thing I want it to be going 100+ and have a steering related failure.

Cleaned the exhaust valves, the previous owner always ran VES Gold oil and it showed. Very limited carbon buildup, and the bellows all seemed good.
 

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Has anyone ran aftermarket skis they have had good luck with on their XCR?
I love the OEM Plastic skis. I also personally love Snow Studs traction products. These are their Magnum 8 inch carbide runners, and the Warthog trail studs. These are for my Aggressive Chassis 680 Mod.
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Your belly pan just needs to be sanded flat and you can epoxy plastic fill or plastic weld/paint if you desire. Could even use rivets and a square of sheetmetal if you wanted a quick cover..
 

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Has anyone ran aftermarket skis they have had good luck with on their XCR? The right ski on my sled has a chunk taken out of it, and I am going to have to replace it so I figured I would get a set of them. Didn't know if there are any good options out there, or sticking with the OEM saddle ski is the best best
Never got around to swap them but I'd love to try my SLP SLT skis on my xcr.

the stock metal saddle skis are not my favorite. the ski bolt bushings wear out the aluminum and things get sloppy. otherwise they worked just fine with bergstroms + ski savers.

if going oem polaris, I'd look for newer edge saddleless skis, iq/fusion skis should also bolt right on
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I bought SLP SLT skis for my XCR and they got in today. Put them together and got them ready to mount, but I decided that before I installed them that I would grease a couple easily accesibile fittings on the spindles. Of course, one of the grease fittings (I have heard them refered to as zerks) popped out when I tried to force new grease in. Looking at the zerk, the "barbs" on the exterior were definitely worn down. It appeared to be a press fit type, not threaded. I purchased a new one to replace it for a couple bucks off of ebay, and saw some youtube tutorials where people used a deep well socket and a hammer to set the fitting back in its hole. I was wondering if any of you had experience with this and could offer any advice? Thanks in advance!
 

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I bought SLP SLT skis for my XCR and they got in today. Put them together and got them ready to mount, but I decided that before I installed them that I would grease a couple easily accesibile fittings on the spindles. Of course, one of the grease fittings (I have heard them refered to as zerks) popped out when I tried to force new grease in. Looking at the zerk, the "barbs" on the exterior were definitely worn down. It appeared to be a press fit type, not threaded. I purchased a new one to replace it for a couple bucks off of ebay, and saw some youtube tutorials where people used a deep well socket and a hammer to set the fitting back in its hole. I was wondering if any of you had experience with this and could offer any advice? Thanks in advance!
I'd first remove the spindle and clean any grease or rust/corrosion out. Likely, the fact that the zerk popped out is due to blockage. Once cleaned, you can use a little red loctite on the barbs of the zerk before taping it into place. Then apply some low temp grease to everything before reinstalling spindle and ski.
 

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I bought SLP SLT skis for my XCR and they got in today. Put them together and got them ready to mount, but I decided that before I installed them that I would grease a couple easily accesibile fittings on the spindles. Of course, one of the grease fittings (I have heard them refered to as zerks) popped out when I tried to force new grease in. Looking at the zerk, the "barbs" on the exterior were definitely worn down. It appeared to be a press fit type, not threaded. I purchased a new one to replace it for a couple bucks off of ebay, and saw some youtube tutorials where people used a deep well socket and a hammer to set the fitting back in its hole. I was wondering if any of you had experience with this and could offer any advice? Thanks in advance!
They are a pressed fit not threaded. I always used my wire feed Mig to lightly tack weld them, just a touch to keep 'em in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Finally had some time to get my carburetor off the sled yesterday and I struck black gold! Seems like one of the previous owners switched out the slides for the black Artic Cat ones.
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I also cleaned the jets and checked the floats while I was in there, everything seemed in good working order. Anything else you guys would recommend before I get it back on the sled again?

Bought SLP SLT skis and Bergstrom carbides, got them installed with the ski savers and shims last week. The tie rod ends that connect to the spindle are pretty worn, causing there to be some slop in the steering, picked up some new ones and will hopefully have them installed in the next few weeks. Crossing my fingers that makes a difference, I want the thing to be safe before I start blasting at 100+mph!
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Everyone is always talking about the "front left motor mount" breaking. There is a torque arm installed on the front left of the sled if you are looking from the the perspective of sitting on the sled. I inspected that mount and it looks fine. The front right (from sitting on the sled) is cracked though. Does this warrant replacing?
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Lastly, I removed the spindle to try to clean potential corrosion out. Everything looked great with the spindle, but the issue was with the zerk on the knuckle of the spindle. It appears from examining the other side that this zerk greases the bushing that sits in the hole where the ski bolt slides through. On the side where the zerk popped out, the bushing appears to be rusted to the spindle, and that is why the grease cannot escape the the zerk popped. I installed a new zerk just to cover the hole, you guys think it's ok to run it without grease on that bushing? I don't want to go bashing on or heating up the spindle, but the only other option would be around $200 for a new spindle. I appreciate your advice and help!
 

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Finally had some time to get my carburetor off the sled yesterday and I stuck black gold! Seems like one of the previous owners switched out the slides for the black Artic Cat ones.
View attachment 2121516 View attachment 2121517
I also cleaned the jets and checked the floats while I was in there, everything seemed in good working order. Anything else you guys would recommend before I get it back on the sled again?

Bought SLP SLT skis and Bergstrom carbides, got them installed with the ski savers and shims last week. The tie rod ends that connect to the spindle are pretty worn, causing there to be some slop in the steering, picked up some new ones and will hopefully have them installed in the next few weeks. Crossing my fingers that makes a difference, I want the thing to be safe before I start blasting at 100+mph!
View attachment 2121518

Everyone is always talking about the "front left motor mount" breaking. There is a torque arm installed on the front left of the sled if you are looking from the the perspective of sitting on the sled. I inspected that mount and it looks fine. The front right (from sitting on the sled) is cracked though. Does this warrant replacing? View attachment 2121519

Lastly, I removed the spindle to try to clean potential corrosion out. Everything looked great with the spindle, but the issue was with the zerk on the knuckle of the spindle. It appears from examining the other side that this zerk greases the bushing that sits in the hole where the ski bolt slides through. On the side where the zerk popped out, the bushing appears to be rusted to the spindle, and that is why the grease cannot escape the the zerk popped. I installed a new zerk just to cover the hole, you guys think it's ok to run it without grease on that bushing? I don't want to go bashing on or heating up the spindle, but the only other option would be around $200 for a new spindle. I appreciate your advice and help!
I'd replace the right side mount anyway if it's broken. This indicates it was probably broken when the left front mount broke at one time.

I'd also get the ski spindle bushing freed up. Try some liquid wrench in the zerk hole. If you allow the bolt to be the pivot point, rather than the bushing, it can wear the hole in the ski saddle.
 
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