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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This past weekend, I picked up a sled I have dreamed of owning for years, a 2000 Polaris XCR 800. Aside from the damage that a MBRP can the previous owner installed caused to the nose pan (minor plastic deformation and melting), the sled is in great shape with 6,200 miles. Tested compression, 140psi across the board. The pipes are stock, but the previous owner has jetted the sled down to 410 from the stock 440's. The sled was ridden primarily in Upstate NY where the average speed you can safely maintain is about 40mph. I do most of my riding in Northern Maine, where on a slow day I average 60mph, with some long railroad bed or logging road runs at 90mph plus for ~10 miles. I am worried about being too lean with the 410's. Does anyone have experience running these at high speeds for long durations? I generally put a splash of VES Gold in the gas for insurance.

I have looked around a little bit, and being fairly new to carbureted sleds (grew up around primarily EFI), but where can you buy the main jets? I am planning on going through the sled over the next few months, cleaning the exhaust valves, carburetors, changing out some fluids, greasing jack/crankshaft as well as the suspension, anything else you guys would recommend for going through the sled? Appreciate all the help!
 

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This past weekend, I picked up a sled I have dreamed of owning for years, a 2000 Polaris XCR 800. Aside from the damage that a MBRP can the previous owner installed caused to the nose pan (minor plastic deformation and melting), the sled is in great shape with 6,200 miles. Tested compression, 140psi across the board. The pipes are stock, but the previous owner has jetted the sled down to 410 from the stock 440's. The sled was ridden primarily in Upstate NY where the average speed you can safely maintain is about 40mph. I do most of my riding in Northern Maine, where on a slow day I average 60mph, with some long railroad bed or logging road runs at 90mph plus for ~10 miles. I am worried about being too lean with the 410's. Does anyone have experience running these at high speeds for long durations? I generally put a splash of VES Gold in the gas for insurance.

I have looked around a little bit, and being fairly new to carbureted sleds (grew up around primarily EFI), but where can you buy the main jets? I am planning on going through the sled over the next few months, cleaning the exhaust valves, carburetors, changing out some fluids, greasing jack/crankshaft as well as the suspension, anything else you guys would recommend for going through the sled? Appreciate all the help!
I've owned my 2000 XCR 800 since new. Yes, it came with 440 mains. It now has 400 mains and has since almost new. It has over 9K miles now. These sleds were way over jetted. I run exhaust gas temp probes. With 440 mains, it ran around 1100 degrees F @ WOT. With 400 mains it usually runs no higher than 1200-1250 degrees. All the way down to -13 deg F. Run 93 octane ethanol fuel in premium fuel position and bowl vent hoses attached to a stock airbox. Not gutted. Use stock NGK BR9 ES plugs at .028" gap. Use only solid tip plugs.
This sled needs heavier weights at 10-64 rather than stock 10-60. Stock almond 140-330 spring. Peak rpm should be 8100 +/-.
Make sure to use a good torque arm on left front of engine properly installed at a slightly downward angle at front or you'll break that motor mount repeatedly. Install it at same as imaginary line between jackshaft and crankshaft.
First align clutches at proper 5/8" offset then adjust torque arm and rear torque stop tight. Float secondary outward from the specified offset by about .120" using the proper washers/spacers behind the retention bolt. Lightly grease jackshaft to make sure secondary can easily float inward when shifting from launch to 1:1. Secondary clutching should use stock R-12 helix with stock silver/blue spring in hole #2.

No need to premix oil with fuel ever. It hurts octane and leans mixture out. Make sure oil pump arm is properly adjusted to the first line on the arm when all slack is removed by applying light throttle pressure without opening slides on carbs.

Carbs need to have updated black aluminum slides, as the stock pot metal ones will break the corners off. Use Cat slides from the 1999 ZRT 800. They are the same 2.0 cutaway as the stock Polaris ones and cheaper.

At that mileage I'd replace the stock pistons with Wisecos as I did after a skirt broke on mine at 6500 miles. My sled originally had 140 psi compression an now has 143 PSI cranking compression and 5% leakdown on all cylinders.

Enjoy one of the best performance sleds Polaris has ever produced.

If you ever get into poor fuel or very cold conditions, simply turn key to regular fuel position. If you want even more protection, pull carb bowl vent hoses off the fittings on airbox and let them hang down.

My Avatar pic is my 2000 XCR in the process of being turbocharged.:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I really appreciate all of your suggestions, I think over the course of this summer I am going to try to do as much as I can to the sled to get it ready to go for next winter! I am going to try to get a ninja plumber torque arm and get that installed.

As a younger guy with not much major mechanical experience, would you recommend doing these modifications myself? I want to learn how to work on the sled and be able to do things myself, but I am definitely intimidated about messing something up that will negatively impact performance or cause damage. Also, where would you find those Cat slides for the carb? I have seen some forum posts of guys selling them as they upgraded to 3.0-3.5 cutaways, but do you know of anywhere that would carry them? Hardest thing so far has been finding parts, but I guess that comes with a sled that is almost as old as me!

I have seen some posts about the newer Polaris 075 belt being made out of a pretty soft compound that wears out decently fast. I have seen some people running the Ultimax XS 816 with good success, what belt do you recommend? Think I am going to rebuild the steering at some point, there is a decent amount of play in the bushings. Lastly, putting some Bergstrom Triple Point carbides on, I've heard great things about them. Thanks again!
 

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Fuji Triples love fuel, no problem being main-overjetted as long as you don’t 4 stroke the midrange(needle clip).
Also, calibrate your tach before you start targeting RPM because triples have a bigger window of peak power/torque than little brother twins(with the OEM pipes).

For trail riding I would target 84-8500, any lower isn't peppy out of the corners. If you’re doing max speed on ice or drag racing that’s a different story.

Don’t be afraid to ask about anything else!
 

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2001 XCR 800, Decker Piped 1996 XCR 680 SP
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For trails, the stock R12 with Silver/Blue is an awesome combination. I'd definitely go to 10-62s at a minimum with the updated Almond round in the primary. The old Almond square springs are junk. I suggest in addition with what was said above, to add 2 SLP Flow Rites to the dash, and find or convert the stock 1 hole airbox to a 2 hole airbox. Here's a pic of the flow rites, as well as a pic of the 2 hole airbox
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Fuji Triples love fuel, no problem being main-overjetted as long as you don’t 4 stroke the midrange(needle clip).
Also, calibrate your tach before you start targeting RPM because triples have a bigger window of peak power/torque than little brother twins(with the OEM pipes).

For trail riding I would target 84-8500, any lower isn't peppy out of the corners. If you’re doing max speed on ice or drag racing that’s a different story.

Don’t be afraid to ask about anything else!
I must total disagree. If you think your sled is peppy out of the corners because you run weights that are too light, then I'd love to run trails with you. My sled is so peppy in trail riding that it's actually dangerous. It doesn't do anything good for snappy acceleration when over revving and too rich. I've straightened so many XCR owners out in that regard it's crazy. All my trail riding XCR owners are set up as I outlined because they see how great my own sled runs against them. And, that dyno test is obviously not using stock pipes. Peak hp at DTR shows 8100 rpms with even smaller mains than I stated. I've also never seen any aftermarket pipes that were any better than stockers.

On the best belt to use, the XS-816 is one of the best. The new 075 belts are now not very strong due to redesign.
 

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Not to mention the 800 triple LOVES to be leaned out. With safe jetting mine made 164 with stock porting, reeds, and pipes. Peak power was achieved with SLP 12-300D heads, the flow rites, and MBRP race can.

I'd run 380s at around 0 degrees. But I'd be mindful of how long I'd hold it wide open for, especially if temps drop to below zero.

I'm actually currently in the middle of a mild build on my 800, but you can find the XCR Shootout videos where you can see it run. My buddy owned it at that time, and it was wicked fast for being essentially stock, albeit the mods stated above as well as a 9811R and 240 1.25" shovel points.
 

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You guys go and run yours at 8 and watch my tail light spin 9 grand! I have 8600 dynoport pipes on my EXCR, from the factory the Gen2 we had spun 84-8500 and won many races/radar runs/hill climbs.

I also wouldn’t put too much real world investment into a dyno, there are a lot of variables but like I said the triples have more room for error.

 

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2120106
9 grand is a huge power loss with stock cylinders and stock pipes... 300 RPM over peak and it's already lost 9 horsepower. Clutch for 8150 on a calibrated tach and you will be in the money. Out of the pump gas stock cc sleds, it took a slammed sled to beat mine, I recall it had work done but couldn't tell you if it was ported, piped, or both. Mine was stock height with bolt ons, clutched and geared with the aforementioned traction products. Pic from when I got it, should look familiar to some...
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95 degree water temp, my thermostat doesn’t open until 120 so that’s laughable data. No timing, take it with a grain of salt. Pipes probably didn’t even get hot.

nice thing about a CVT, start light with the primary weights and add a couple grams on the same day so you can compare 👍🏼
 

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If the sled was still how I got it I'd let it speak for itself. Anyone that raced the shootout would attest to how quick it was. Spun 8200 and put some good runs down. I agree testing is always key, there's always room for improvement at any given moment. What a dyno says may not be what one sees in the real world anyways. Truth be told, I wish I had the time slips for my sled from my buddy. For a full weight non ported/non piped XCR, it ran respectable, especially considering the years it was active (2001-2012). [email protected] in 660' was good back then. Nowadays it seems about average for a well tuned stocker
 

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For trail riding I would target 84-8500, any lower isn't peppy out of the corners.
for pep out of the corners , I'd look to the secondary clutch to get the desired balance between up- and backshift.

Traction will also need to be adressed. I found by chance a very peppy sec. setup , using a SLP 46-36 fp helix. With a worn 1.25" unstudded shockwave , it was instant track spin at any speed or throttle opening, lol!
 

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I really appreciate all of your suggestions, I think over the course of this summer I am going to try to do as much as I can to the sled to get it ready to go for next winter! I am going to try to get a ninja plumber torque arm and get that installed.

As a younger guy with not much major mechanical experience, would you recommend doing these modifications myself? I want to learn how to work on the sled and be able to do things myself, but I am definitely intimidated about messing something up that will negatively impact performance or cause damage. Also, where would you find those Cat slides for the carb? I have seen some forum posts of guys selling them as they upgraded to 3.0-3.5 cutaways, but do you know of anywhere that would carry them? Hardest thing so far has been finding parts, but I guess that comes with a sled that is almost as old as me!

I have seen some posts about the newer Polaris 075 belt being made out of a pretty soft compound that wears out decently fast. I have seen some people running the Ultimax XS 816 with good success, what belt do you recommend? Think I am going to rebuild the steering at some point, there is a decent amount of play in the bushings. Lastly, putting some Bergstrom Triple Point carbides on, I've heard great things about them. Thanks again!
Wahl Racing used to be a good source for those black Cat carb slides. They are part # 6506-119. Here's the listing from Babbitts Online in Michigan. $118.95 for all three. Available from them as of today. 1999 Arctic Cat ZRT 800 - BLACK (99ZRG) Carburetor - Internal Parts | Babbitts Arctic Cat Partshouse
You should be able to perform most work yourself. But get hold of a Shop Manual for detailed instructions. I bought the Polaris Race Manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks to everyone for putting in their 2 cents! I think it's really cool that such an old sled can still have such an active community. When I get home from work today I will throw up some pictures of my sled, I'm excited to get my hands dirty! Definitely a little hesitant to crack the motor open and change the pistons, the previous owner never touched it in over 10 years and 2,500 miles of ownership. I do suppose it makes sense to get ahead of any problems before they happen though, last thing I want is a $400 piston job turning into an expensive rebuild. I just bought the sled this past weekend, so sadly I am going to have to wait for about a 10 months before I can see how she does down the trail. I'll be counting down the days!

I am definitely a little hesitant to throw a ton of money at it before I even see what it rides like at baseline, but I picked up the sled for only $2k so another thousand for additions that are going to make it run longer is probably a good investment. I am planning on strictly trail riding this sled a few times a year when the conditions are right, so my goal would be to make it fast and fun to ride, but decently reliable. Anyone recommend running a Tempa-Flow?

Wahl Racing used to be a good source for those black Cat carb slides. They are part # 6506-119. Here's the listing from Babbitts Online in Michigan. $118.95 for all three. Available from them as of today. 1999 Arctic Cat ZRT 800 - BLACK (99ZRG) Carburetor - Internal Parts | Babbitts Arctic Cat Partshouse
You should be able to perform most work yourself. But get hold of a Shop Manual for detailed instructions. I bought the Polaris Race Manual.
Thank you for sending that over to me! When I added them to my cart, it was $118.95 a piece, not for all three. Unless they come in a pack of three, it seems like they are going to run me over $350. Do you think at that price it's worth switching them out? I have heard the old ones can break apart and suck metal into the cylinder which would probably result in catastrophic failure. I am going to pick up a couple of those XS-816s, and see if I can find a race manual! The real question is should I spend $15 on a digital copy or $60 for a physical one?
 

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When were the shocks rebuilt?

Get the tach calibrated..I can do it if you can't find someone nearby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When were the shocks rebuilt?

Get the tach calibrated..I can do it if you can't find someone nearby.
Not 100% sure about this, but I think the shocks are still stock. What entails the calibration process? I am not sure who might be able to do that nearby.

Is the point of calibrating the tach to dial in my clutching so I am for sure around 8100?
 

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Thanks to everyone for putting in their 2 cents! I think it's really cool that such an old sled can still have such an active community. When I get home from work today I will throw up some pictures of my sled, I'm excited to get my hands dirty! Definitely a little hesitant to crack the motor open and change the pistons, the previous owner never touched it in over 10 years and 2,500 miles of ownership. I do suppose it makes sense to get ahead of any problems before they happen though, last thing I want is a $400 piston job turning into an expensive rebuild. I just bought the sled this past weekend, so sadly I am going to have to wait for about a 10 months before I can see how she does down the trail. I'll be counting down the days!

I am definitely a little hesitant to throw a ton of money at it before I even see what it rides like at baseline, but I picked up the sled for only $2k so another thousand for additions that are going to make it run longer is probably a good investment. I am planning on strictly trail riding this sled a few times a year when the conditions are right, so my goal would be to make it fast and fun to ride, but decently reliable. Anyone recommend running a Tempa-Flow?



Thank you for sending that over to me! When I added them to my cart, it was $118.95 a piece, not for all three. Unless they come in a pack of three, it seems like they are going to run me over $350. Do you think at that price it's worth switching them out? I have heard the old ones can break apart and suck metal into the cylinder which would probably result in catastrophic failure. I am going to pick up a couple of those XS-816s, and see if I can find a race manual! The real question is should I spend $15 on a digital copy or $60 for a physical one?
Ouch! They used to be $60 each. For a manual, I'd just get the online one. Try to find a 1999 Cat ZRT 800 in the salvage yard or on ebay, etc, to acquire those slides. You might even find a good set of carbs from a Polaris 800 XCR that already has the black slides. 1999-2003 used the same slides. Another source might be a Mikuni parts distributor. I used to buy from Fox Distributing near Chicago. Not sure they're still around.

I use a Tempa Flow on my own XCR but believe me when I say that it only works at low and midrange throttle positions. Does nothing at WOT. Probably not worth it for the small benefit it provides. Tempa Flow will argue that it does work, but I know better.
 

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Re: shocks, I never got along with the stock front shocks valving, even after rebuild. So I put in a set of fresh rebuilt RydeFX shocks from a 03 XC800 along with the stock xcr springs. I found it to be a nice improvement.

slides: the broken off piece was stuck in the reeds. Notice the wear on the slides , worst on the pto carb
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Re: shocks, I never got along with the stock front shocks valving, even after rebuild. So I put in a set of fresh rebuilt RydeFX shocks from a 03 XC800 along with the stock xcr springs. I found it to be a nice improvement.

slides: the broken off piece was stuck in the reeds. Notice the wear on the slides , worst on the pto carb
View attachment 2120122
Yikes, that looks brutal! Definitely going to be switching my slides out, just have to find a place where I can get them for reasonable money. Everywhere I have been searching online has been at least $340 with shipping and handling, I did an extensive search with the Artic Cat part number (Arctic Cat 6506-119 - Piston, Valve Ca 2.0 : CyclePartsNation Arctic Cat Parts Nation for example).

Ouch! They used to be $60 each. For a manual, I'd just get the online one. Try to find a 1999 Cat ZRT 800 in the salvage yard or on ebay, etc, to acquire those slides. You might even find a good set of carbs from a Polaris 800 XCR that already has the black slides. 1999-2003 used the same slides. Another source might be a Mikuni parts distributor. I used to buy from Fox Distributing near Chicago. Not sure they're still around.

I use a Tempa Flow on my own XCR but believe me when I say that it only works at low and midrange throttle positions. Does nothing at WOT. Probably not worth it for the small benefit it provides. Tempa Flow will argue that it does work, but I know better.
Looked around through some online salvage yards, and wasn't able to find too much. Seems like Fox Distributing is still around, I will give them a call and see what they have! I went to the Mikuni Power Distributors List and they were on there (MikuniPower.com - Mikuni Distributors), but upon checking over their parts list for the TM carburetors, it looks like the throttle valves they have on there are 4.0 and not 2.0 (http://www.mikuni-foxdist.com/tmparts.pdf). Could just be the naming convention they use, but they all are like "832-43002-4.0". I can find those slides on eBay, would be awesome if they would fit. Does anyone know the model number of the Mikuni Carb on either the 1999 ZRT or the XCR? The parts list on the Fox site for TM carbs TM38-1 and 3 as well as TM38-85 and 86, but does not mention the TM38-C182, which appears to be the model number of the carb on the 1999 ZRT. Didn't know if a throttle valve for the TM38-1 and 3 or TM38-85 and 86 might work for this application. Appreciate all the help guys!
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Just found these in stock on Wahl, not sure if that would fit properly either. Does anyone on here know?

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Also, anyone have a torque arm they would recommend? I have been looking at few online, everything I have heard says that ninjaplumber's are the best. He's not too far from me in MA, so I might make the drive out there and grab one if no one has any better suggestions.I found another thread on XCR torque arms, don't worry about replying!
 
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