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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a strange thing happening with my 02 700 XCSP. I am burning a lot of belts.

This happens when I first get on it in the day. It feels like the track is frozen, but it's not. I let it warm up in the garage, then I have to really get on it to get it to move. A lot of white smoke comes out the left side, I can smell the belt, and then it is good to go for the day, unless I get stuck or something. Then the belt burns in a heartbeat, way quicker than any other sled I have had.

It's like something is frozen, but it is not. And it is worst right at the start of the day, like when I first move the sled. Or if the track does get frozen, like getting it stuck.

Any ideas? Should I check the clutches? How do I do this? The dealer looked at it and said my weld stop lever was bent, they fixed that but it doesn't help. I am at a loss?
 

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I have a strange thing happening with my 02 700 XCSP. I am burning a lot of belts.

This happens when I first get on it in the day. It feels like the track is frozen, but it's not. I let it warm up in the garage, then I have to really get on it to get it to move. A lot of white smoke comes out the left side, I can smell the belt, and then it is good to go for the day, unless I get stuck or something. Then the belt burns in a heartbeat, way quicker than any other sled I have had.

It's like something is frozen, but it is not. And it is worst right at the start of the day, like when I first move the sled. Or if the track does get frozen, like getting it stuck.

Any ideas? Should I check the clutches? How do I do this? The dealer looked at it and said my weld stop lever was bent, they fixed that but it doesn't help. I am at a loss?[/b]
how tight is the chaincase chain tensioner??
 

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Does it tend to bog at all? If the spring in the secondary is shot, it will bog bad, and your belt will burn easy because there's not enough squeeze on the belt. That or maybe something is binding in the primary, like the weight pins, so the primary doesn't want to close. Definately get both clutches gone through. It shouldn't cost you too much unless you need parts, in case, well, you need parts. Take the belt off, jack up the back of the machine, and turn the secondary by hand, you should be able to get the track to turn fairly easily. If it won't move, its something in the drivetrain, not the clutches. The try to turn the inside sheave of the secondary, while holding the outside sheave still; if you can turn it easily, its the secondary. If the spring in the secondary seems right, it's something binding in the primary, making it stuck open.
 

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Have had the same thing happen on my ol' 99 XC700. Turned out to be chaincase full of water - frozen solid. Had to put it on a stand, take off the belt and rock back&forth on the secondary clutch to get it to loosen up.
 

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Have had the same thing happen on my ol' 99 XC700. Turned out to be chaincase full of water - frozen solid. Had to put it on a stand, take off the belt and rock back&forth on the secondary clutch to get it to loosen up.[/b]
I would place the sled on a safe jackstand and watch the clutches movement primary and secondary. I recall when I was young and bought my first sled the track often froze to the ground after a days ride and exibited similar issues. I guess I did not put 2+2 together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does it tend to bog at all? If the spring in the secondary is shot, it will bog bad, and your belt will burn easy because there's not enough squeeze on the belt. That or maybe something is binding in the primary, like the weight pins, so the primary doesn't want to close. Definately get both clutches gone through. It shouldn't cost you too much unless you need parts, in case, well, you need parts. Take the belt off, jack up the back of the machine, and turn the secondary by hand, you should be able to get the track to turn fairly easily. If it won't move, its something in the drivetrain, not the clutches. The try to turn the inside sheave of the secondary, while holding the outside sheave still; if you can turn it easily, its the secondary. If the spring in the secondary seems right, it's something binding in the primary, making it stuck open.[/b]
The secondary seems easy to twist the sheaves apart, it might be the springs then? I can twist it apart easily by hand, but it snaps back no problem.

The chaincase was just gone through by the dealer and I trust they did good work.

Nothing is frozen for real at all. It's 65 degrees in my garage where the sled sleeps and this happens when I first take off.

When I jack it up, I can spin the track by hand easily.
 

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And its easy to turn the secondary by hand too, so the track rotates?
 

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Whats the cen to cen distance of the crank to jackshaft?

How high is the belt sitting out of the secondary when you come to a stop?

Whens the last time you looked at the buttons in the secondary?

Sounds to me your belts to low in the secondary, starting you off in a higher gearing.

Weld stop lever? Do you mean the torque arm on the pto side by the carb?

If that was bent a motor mount is gone, get a prybar in the engine area and pry on it all different ways and look for a ripped mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Whats the cen to cen distance of the crank to jackshaft?

How high is the belt sitting out of the secondary when you come to a stop?

Whens the last time you looked at the buttons in the secondary?

Sounds to me your belts to low in the secondary, starting you off in a higher gearing.

Weld stop lever? Do you mean the torque arm on the pto side by the carb?

If that was bent a motor mount is gone, get a prybar in the engine area and pry on it all different ways and look for a ripped mount.[/b]
I will measure tomorrow the cen cen distance.

A year ago I hit a railroad tie hard which broke a trailing arm and the trailing arm mount. I fixed that but then brought it to HK for the burning belt issue which I had before that. I asked for them to check clutch alignment and engine alignment. They came back telling me the chaincase was filled with automatic tranny fluid and the weld stop lever for reverse was bad. So they said it was all in the chaincase. It seemed ok but the problem isn't always obvious. The belt sits a tiny below the edge of the secondary, but the setting is the highest- Does this mean the buttons are bad? 3800 miles on my sled and I haven't done a thing with the clutches.
 

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With the added info I can see your now starting in a high ratio, Belt should be above the sheave about a 1/8 ''

We need to know the cen to cen, distance.

With hitting a railroad tie you could have bent the bulkhead up and back some. This will shorten the distance and put belt low.


Need to know c-c distance?

And check all motor mounts?

Also where is the secondary adjuster set at, # 1-5, this will raise the belt up for you.
 
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