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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I saw ESFR pro xr rider post about picking up some helixs and springs at the Big East show. I figured I should do the same. But I need some suggestions on my sled, Carl's is building me a 660 right now and I haven't gotten any setups from them yet. I need some clutching and gearing setups, I have a Pro XR 660 with SLP twins, 136" 1.25 Ripsaw. I ride mostly trails and do some of trail when I can. I want it setup to run corner to corner and still have alittle top end left.
 

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Stick with stock 23/39. Good combo considering you long tracked, but then compensated by adding more power. It'll be a stump-ripper with that setup. 23/43 is WAAY too low. You will not be able to control track spin like that. I rode a 660 with 22/40 and it was nearly unmanageable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well this what came in the sled when I bought it. The gears are 24/41, I also have 22,23,39 laying around. Drive clutch, yellow spring, weights L1. Driven clutch helix R11 spring silver/blue.
 

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Ya I guess that is really low. Probably with the 660 kit go back to stock or leave it since the 660 makes amazing power and I doubt you will feel the need to regear but I have never felt it from the seat of pants.
 

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Run the stock 24/41 or 23/39. The 23/39 will need a shorter chain. Run 62 weights, almond/blue, silver/blue #3, and a HSP36X, or dalton 52/36 helix. Something in that area. This should put you close. Most with stock single run 64's well, and you need more helix than the R11, but the same finish angle.
 

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Originally posted by pockets@Sep 27 2005, 09:04 PM
Run the stock 24/41 or 23/39. The 23/39 will need a shorter chain. Run 62 weights, almond/blue, silver/blue #3, and a HSP36X, or dalton 52/36 helix. Something in that area. This should put you close. Most with stock single run 64's well, and you need more helix than the R11, but the same finish angle.
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doesn't he have a Team secondary on the Pro XR
 

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Sorry, saw the list of parts he has and the R11. With the team, same primary, but a 140/220 secondary spring, and a 66/44-.46, team #420494 would give you the option of a shallower finish angle to try. The team #420719 may work well also. It will be a bit different than the 600 with the added torque of the 660 down low, but with the twin pipes, it will not like a lot of helix angle at top end.
 

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Originally posted by braaap11889@Sep 27 2005, 04:08 PM
from what I hear the 660 keeps with 800s til 80 then starts leaving THEM behind. Maybe try 23/43 for accleration and I bet you will still have some nice topend left.
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A well setup 660 whips a fairly stock 800 starting off the line all the way to top speed :div20:

I'm running 23/40 gears and am going to try 24/39 again this year. No need to go lower than 22/40. I really like the SLP 66/44.56 helix with my sled (I've literally tried a dozen or so). Worked well even when it was a 600.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have 168 studs in the 136 ripsaw, so hook up won't be a problem. I have both a 74 and 76 chain. 23/39 is stock 600 gearing, I ran 22/39 in my 600 edge last year and it ripped. 25/41 is stock gearing so 24/41 that is in it is just dropped a top tooth. What about dropping another tooth, 23/41. Anyone have a polaris gearing chart you could e-mail me- [email protected]?
 
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