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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched a ton on the topic and there is lots of info. Probably the reason I'm a little confused. What's the overall thought on primary weights? :dunno: Seems half the people say 60g and other half say 62g. I want to keep sled from over reving, but I don't want to bog it down either. I weigh about 210 geared up and like to play in the powder and climb.

Also I guess difference in almond/blue and almond/red primary spring is just engagement rpm right?? Either way doesn't matter.

I know to get full benefit from clutching I should change out secondary helix. Will there still be a nice performance gain if I hold off on the helix?? Many have said sled is a whole different animal with just the primary spring and weight changes. :banana:


One more thing off topic, what about jetting? Stock mains are 440s. How safe can I drop? Most riding done at 1000'-3000' in northern NH and not afraid to keep right on riding down to -20 degrees F. 420s probably okay? :dunno:

Thanks in advance :luxhello: :smiley-faces7: :dance2:
 

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You can get 62's if they don't work out you can grind them down to what ever will work, alm/blue and alm/red have different engagements but i would worry about the almond red not allowing full shift, its a long spring.

Hold off on the helix, steeper helixes for softer snow and off trail riding don't necessarily go together. What were you running for rpm's last year?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I seem to recall sled spooled up to about 8200 on the uncalibrated tach, but I only lined it up and ran it on the lake a few times. I don't really care about the lake too much, but I want to run well with other sleds in my class. Although I will be riding with a couple pesky F6s this season I wouldn't mind beating. :frech11:

I mostly want more mid range and pull out of the corners to 70-80.
 

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put the 62's in, and run a dark blue/white or the almound/blue primary.
 

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Look this is the setup that I ran in my 03 pro-x 600 last year with a 1 3/8 (close to yours).
I ran a almond/red primary spring with 10-60's. Try the 62's but I felt like I lost too much snap with the 62's and I am only 170lbs soaking wet.
In the secondary run the red/blue spring with the 66/44 .46 helix.
It rockets out of the corners and pulls hard to top end. I was very impressed with this setup and so were the people I rode with/ against :lol2:
It flat out ripped....
Later
TR
 

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I ran 62 gr weights, stock helix & spring in secondary in my 03 pro x 600. I used SLP's high flow air horn kit & stayed with the stock 440 main jets. I rode the sled down to -15 degrees at around 1200 ft with no problems. The slp air horn kit really cleaned up the running quality. The stock air box is incredibly restricted. I also changed from the stock 23/39 gearing to 22/40. The sled was studded with 192 1.325 megabites , it hooked hard & kept on pulling up to a peak of 8200. The only other stock motored 600 that ever gave me fits was a well tuned 04 600 ho rev that belongs to a friend. I also weigh about 210 lbs. Hopefully some of this might help you out. :div20:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. I'm thinking 62g with almond/blue primary spring and leave secondary alone. I'm also thinking SLP air box mods sound like a good idea. What kind of jetting changes are needed with the box mods?? I'm thinking if it feels just touch fat now that a little more air will clean it up good with the stock 440 jetting??
 

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Originally posted by nhrev@Sep 13 2005, 10:44 PM
Thanks guys.  I'm thinking 62g with almond/blue primary spring and leave secondary alone.  I'm also thinking SLP air box mods sound like a good idea.  What kind of jetting changes are needed with the box mods??  I'm thinking if it feels just touch fat now that a little more air will clean it up good with the stock 440 jetting??
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That is exactly what I run in my 03. I also run a SLP Delron washer in the secondary to eliminate spring binding. I have tried a few of the popular helixs but I have found the stocker is the best in the loose stuff and works good in the trail too. If I am doing a lot of boondocking I switch to the 60s. I wish they made them in 1 gram increments.
I also have the SLP air horn kit, it helped with throttle response. It took me a little time to figure out that I could jet it down with the air horn kit. This is due to the pressure change in the air box created by the modification. I now safely run 420s and have had it out as low as -20f. A stock F6 will not beat it in accelaration but it will take it at top end. The PRO X is not a top end sled though.

One thing to be aware of when adding heavier weights to the clutch is the extra stress on the motor mounts. They will tear if you don't add some after market torque links to hold the engine in place under the extra load. Polaris racing recomends changing the mounts to the 90 durometer racing mounts in conjunction with the links.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks allycat! :div20: I did not think about adding torque links. Probably a good mod anyways. Still thinking aobut SLP air horn kit, think it gained you enough to be worth it?? I was just thinking it was a better mod for sleds with more mods like heads, porting, etc. not a stock machine.
 

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The air horn kit is well worth it. It virtually eliminates underhood heat from getting into the airbox. Plus the stock set up is very restrictive. This is due to the noise standard that the manufactures are required to meet. The kit will increase intake noise. Although the increase is minimal, it won't pass the "Pass by Noise" requirement of 78d with the Mod. However you can barely tell the difference when riding except for the increased performance that is. It is probably the best Mod for the money you can do to the PRO X.
 

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FWIW, I ran 410's in an 03 xc 6 for 3000 miles last year at 800->1300 feet elevation on average. This included a few days just below -20 C. Mind you, I never hold it open for more than 5-10 seconds, as most of the riding is on land too tight for this. This sled also had 440 stock. 420 sounds good and safe for what you want.

Originally posted by nhrev@Sep 13 2005, 03:01 PM
One more thing off topic, what about jetting?  Stock mains are 440s.  How safe can I drop?  Most riding done at 1000'-3000' in northern NH and not afraid to keep right on riding down to -20 degrees F.  420s probably okay?
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You're pretty heavy to start for a 600.
You can certainly run the 62's @ sea level on hardpack but as soon as you climb and or get off trail and load that 600 down the 62's will be too heavy. Add in warmer temps and soft heavy snow and it will get really lazy.
 

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I concur. I have 62's in my 03 xc6. Last year on Gaspe while crossing the mainland, as the elevation rose my 6 had real trouble getting over
7500 rpm, and it was cool out(-10 C). Once we got into New Richmond at sea level that afternoon, the sled ran perfect again, up to 8000 rpm with ease. I think 62's shaved down to about 61 is perfect for the
6 for all around use. That is my plan this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ordered the 62s thinking if it bogged down too much I would simply grind them down until I got the response back.

terez, saying I need a bit of a diet to pull 62s???? :dunno:

Just kidding, thanks for the advice. :div20:
 

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I ran 62g weights with almond/blue spring in the primary of my 2002 Pro-X 600. That primary combined with a 50-36 Dalton helix in the secondary ran fantastic, held an indicated 8000-8100 rpm bottom to top. Your results may vary with the Team Secondary. Curious to see how my Fusion will work with the stock 62g weights.
 
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