powder set up
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make sure you re-jet j/k :lol: :lol: :lol:
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You're asking a bunch of snow starved dudes for powder set-ups? I don't see many answers coming any time soon. Good luck and let us know what snow looks like.
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41 Posts
I live out west and installed 151 with 2 inch track and am running 22/41 gearing with 9 tooth drivers. Stock gearing will work fine with 1.5 or stock track using the 10 tooth drivers. Only real change needed is to change the clutch weights to the recommended 60 grams. This sled pulls the 151x2 track like nothing. Have fun where the snow is deep. 
G
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·I was smoking belts until going down to 19/43s with a green secondary and 55 degree helix. Sled will still hit nearly 80 which is plenty out here. The thing will go in the powder if you write the word momentum across your forehead and don't forget it lol. Never to be confused with a Summit but we all knew that right?
Brian did you cut down your own track or which 151x2 are you using? What did you use to drop the rear suspension? One of these days I am thinking I might throw on the 144x2.25 finger track but at this point I am still afraid things will bend the first time it get's dropped hard.
Brian did you cut down your own track or which 151x2 are you using? What did you use to drop the rear suspension? One of these days I am thinking I might throw on the 144x2.25 finger track but at this point I am still afraid things will bend the first time it get's dropped hard.
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41 Posts
Duke1n, I used a camo 151 standard pattern and had Springhill Motorsports in Spokane cut it narrow. I didn't have to drop rear suspension to fit track with 9 tooth drivers. I moved front arm down to lower hole in reinforcement plate in tunnel. I also put additional holes in limiter strap and sucked it up about 1.5 inches to make up for smaller diameter drivers. Left limiter blocks in on 1 setting and sled seems to pull ok in powder. I am playing with weights still and with the 9 drivers the stock gearing seems to work ok. We ride at about 4500 to 8000 feet. I may still lower rear suspension and if I do I have some aluminum brackets on drawing board for use along with a lengthened chaincase to allow use of 10 tooth drivers and a lower attack angle. I don't think the narrow track will be much of a hindrance in deep powder once the chassis is set up properly. My normal sled is an 01 800 MC with a bigbore kit and 156 track and lengthened chaincase and many lightweight parts. the F7 has a little catching up to do but I think it can be a contender.
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4,446 Posts
If you have a 1.375 track and going west, if you just change weights, make sure you bring at least 3 extra belts per day if you are running the hills.
This is experience talking from last week. You must regear. I have never seen clutches so hot i had to change belts with gloves on.
If you are just going to ride trails, it will be fine.
This is experience talking from last week. You must regear. I have never seen clutches so hot i had to change belts with gloves on.
If you are just going to ride trails, it will be fine.
I disagree, I have a Sno-Pro and I was out in Colorado last week and put 200 miles on and climbed and rode through meadows and didn't replace one belt!!! Just do the weights you'll be fine!!!! Heading out next week again and I am leaving the setup the same!!!! Good Luck!!!
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4,446 Posts
With the stock setup. i could pull 7000 (barely) since the valves open at 6800, it wasnt a ton of fun, and 2 shredded belts to boot.
Cat has a p/n for an altitude kit with the 60 gr. weights and gearing requir.
Pat
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1,338 Posts
No perf manual says 6800 RPM on the F5 and F7
G
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·If you get into climbing in the tight stuff or for that matter riding in any deep powder re-gear! Chad I rode for 3 weeks before I in one day put a real hurtin on my belts riding the trees. It all just depends on the type of riding you are doing but your clutches at the very least will run hot and in the worst case you will eat belts
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