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Discussion Starter #1
To beat the driven clutch off thats seized on my 97 ZR 440, I must first remove the damn airbox. This has got to be the most piss poor set up I have ever seen. To get the airbox off you must remove the plate that holds on the coil, the CDI, and the fuel pump thats hooked on the airbox :angry: ! This might not seem too hard but the plate is tucked into the airbox at the bottom. You must bend the plate out to slip it out of the airbox, now this part is the stupid part. When you go to slip the plate out, the damn coolant hose blocks the way!! Come ON! And there seems like there is no other way to get that damn thing off other then removing the coolant hose!!! :angry: :wacko: !! Oh man Oh man this thing really gets me pissed off! On top of not being able to get the coil plate out, all the wires running every which way make the thing a pain to get into final position. UUUGHh ! Does anyone have a trick on getting these bastards in and out?! I doubt you do but any advice on an easier way would be appreciated greatly. I think Im gonna throw the airbox away and get some damn carb socks! Man Kirk Hibbert and the crew werent thinking when they came up with this airbox!
 

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I am confused :blink:
What is seized on the driven clutch? If the clutch is stuck on the jackshaft, the last thing you want to do is "beat the thing off"!!??
Is the jackshaft bearing the problem?

Don't get frustrated- the last thing you want to do is persuade any part on a sled with a hammer :huh:

Take a look at brownsleisureworld.com for a break down of the drive clutches and drive train and describe which part is the problem. We can work from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im gonna beat the thing off with a hammer, this whole sled is a poorly designed piece of junk. The stationary sheave is seized on the shaft and the stationary sheave is also damaged and needs to be replaced already. Why cant they make these Damn Arctic Cat junks easy to work on?
 

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Hello Racer:

I can get my airbox off in minutes. Yes the pump could have been done better. When you get it unhooked and the airbox out. Open up the slot in the bottom a bit and you can remove it a lot quicker. But make sure you do it. Because it's a slut to put back together right.

Don't blame the arctic cat guys. My secondary slips on and off. Whoever worked on it before didn't lube the shaft. Mine slides.

And don't for one instance think that other brands are any better. They all have their share of "OH SHIT i didn't think of that's"
 

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all sleds are pretty much built this way, and its because us consumers demand lighter weight, more compact and aerodynamic sleds, chill out on the P.O.S. arctic cat statement, if its beyond your abilities,take it to some on who can. Geeeeez
 

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OK, Try this:
Remove the bolt and washer(s) that hold the clutch

Remove the drive belt

Put the bolt (only the bolt) back in the shaft-finger tight-no wrenches

Take a can of penetrating oil and hose the shaft at the back and front of the clutch.

Elevate the rear of the sled so the track spins freely

Take your hammer and TAP on the bolt head while turning the clutch with your other hand, Pull towards you as you are turning and TAPPING.

All you want is a little movement off the shaft to get the penetrating oil to do it's thing.

If it moves at all forward- shoot more oil and tap the clutch face back

Keep TAPPING and turning- it will come off eventually

If results are slow try heating the clutch with a propane torch

You sound really frustrated, so don't take this wrong- you may need to grab the Librium or a beer (or both?) before you grab the hammer :unsure:

Good luck and relax B)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got that damn clutch off tonight, I did something similar to your method ZLSS. Well Im just glad that thing is off and it wont bother me anymore hopefully. Im gonna try doing a couple little modifications to the plate mounting on the airbox to get it to come off and on easier. Sorry I do get very fustrated with these sleds. I dont care what anyone says, the underhood layout on this sled is horrible! Our 98 ZR 500 seems to have a bit redesigned airbox which makes it fit in easier, but its still quite a bitch (pardon my french), ohh well at least I can get the thing riding this weekend! :D
 

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when you put the clutch back on, add some anti-seize or grease to the jack shaft where the clutch sits. This will help keep it from freezing up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ohh I sanded all the rust that was on the shaft off and loaded that shaft with never seize so it wont happen again! :)
 
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