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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what belt can i run from polaris that has a 11.25 c-c distance between clutches
 

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I am guessing this is on your cat/prox ? I would think if you can get your free play in the belt down to 1 1/4" you should be fine. I have never played with a cat secondary but if its anything like a team there's more then enough adjustment to close the secondary up. lay a strait edge across the top of the belt and see what your free play is. clutch off set is the most important thing , most of the time it can be check by leaving the bolt out of the secondary and run it on a stand slowly, let the track slow down without using the brake . the float is set by the belt moving on the clutch , move your shims around to have about 1/16"~1/8" of float in and out on the jack shaft once its centered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am guessing this is on your cat/prox ? I would think if you can get your free play in the belt down to 1 1/4" you should be fine. I have never played with a cat secondary but if its anything like a team there's more then enough adjustment to close the secondary up. lay a strait edge across the top of the belt and see what your free play is. clutch off set is the most important thing , most of the time it can be check by leaving the bolt out of the secondary and run it on a stand slowly, let the track slow down without using the brake . the float is set by the belt moving on the clutch , move your shims around to have about 1/16"~1/8" of float in and out on the jack shaft once its centered.[/b]
i used a cat offset tool for setting my alignment. the spacer i had with the clutch is too big and i have about 1/4 of float to the outside towards the bellypan the clutch can go, but it doesnt use it. ive talked with quite a few clutch tuners and said i can leave it as it, the belt will keep the clutch where it needs to be and the clutch wont move out that way much if any.

im going to take a few of the shims out of the clutch now and see if that does it, if not, i'll add some spacers between the mounts and rear mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If anything, it will give a real good sarting ratio, with the belt being pushed up the secondary so far.[/b]
yeah, that worries me about what kind of top end i will get out of it now. oh well, its a start. some day this week i'll go and look for shorter belts what will work.
 

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Call up a dealer. They've got a book that says all the specs. I don't think Polaris has a 11.25, but cat or doo might. Yamaha could have something that'll handle a decent amount of power too.
 

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If you dont have the top end your looking for I would move the motor. getting some POS belt with high horse power motor in the end will cause more problems then its worth. Belly pan with a hole or a clutch with a speedo cable around it isnt going to be cheap to fix. The motor plate used didnt have slots in it? 1/4" is a fair amount to be off , you will loose some top end poss as much as 10 mph.

Best of luck in the new year!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i just put spacers in the rear between the engine plate and the rear mounts. perfect c-c now and runs much better now. just need to do a little clutch tuning and it will rip. went decent today when i went out
 

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prox700man, do you have any pictures of your new engine /sled? would be fun to see what you have been up to... :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
prox700man, do you have any pictures of your new engine /sled? would be fun to see what you have been up to... :beerchug:[/b]
tomorrow i will try to get pics if time allows and i will post them up in this thread.
 

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any pix yet man?? How many shims between the sheaves worked out the best? Also did you just use one regular washer on the back motor mounts? I think with the torque plate I have on the way I wont need them. I'm gonna be getting my sled back together this week FINALLY!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
no pix, been busy rebuilding the motor, had low compression. i never added or took out shims, however many were in there is what i am running. 1/16 of an inch difference between cat and poo belt, dont worry about it. i also had ot put 3 washers between rear mounts and the motor mount place for my c-c to be exact 11.5" c-c.
 

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your cc distence should not change by swapping the driven clutch to a Comet. the center of the jackshaft has not moved. if you are getting 11.25" cc then something is wrong with your motor mounting technique, the engine is sitting counter-clockwise from true parallel. re-set the engine to get 11.5", it's easier with both clutches off the machine, just measure the center of the crank bolt to the center of the jackshaft. then use your Cat alignment tool to set the offset left and right. it most likely will have about 3/16" side to side slack unless you shim it up with washers. also, Cat secondaries are set-up for 1.375" belts, your Polaris primary is set for 1.438" belts. be carefull that your new secondary does not bottom out the helix at full shift. there are deeper cut helixes available that allow full shift with the wide belt, or you can re-shim your primary and run an after market belt that is 1.375" x 46.625". i had the problem of bottoming out helixes on my '00 XCR 800 with an Erlandson Trackmaster secondary, same as a Cat but modded for two springs. if the helix bottoms and you have a hand full of throttle, it will snap your belt like someone cut it with a hacksaw. i broke about 10 before figuring it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
your cc distence should not change by swapping the driven clutch to a Comet. the center of the jackshaft has not moved. if you are getting 11.25" cc then something is wrong with your motor mounting technique, the engine is sitting counter-clockwise from true parallel. re-set the engine to get 11.5", it's easier with both clutches off the machine, just measure the center of the crank bolt to the center of the jackshaft. then use your Cat alignment tool to set the offset left and right. it most likely will have about 3/16" side to side slack unless you shim it up with washers. also, Cat secondaries are set-up for 1.375" belts, your Polaris primary is set for 1.438" belts. be carefull that your new secondary does not bottom out the helix at full shift. there are deeper cut helixes available that allow full shift with the wide belt, or you can re-shim your primary and run an after market belt that is 1.375" x 46.625". i had the problem of bottoming out helixes on my '00 XCR 800 with an Erlandson Trackmaster secondary, same as a Cat but modded for two springs. if the helix bottoms and you have a hand full of throttle, it will snap your belt like someone cut it with a hacksaw. i broke about 10 before figuring it out.[/b]
i didnt just switch clutches man, i put a 900cat in my pro x, so not just a simple clutch change.


yeah the belts are 1/16 of an inch difference. i can always add a shim or take one out in the secondary to make up for that difference. also the reason c-c was off is because the motor mount plates holes werent drilled in the exact right spot. motor is in parallel and clutches aligned, just c-c was off so i shimmed it and now its perfect. the only thing the deeper cut helix's are for is more of an overdrive than a standard helix. they get about 3-5mph faster top end than reg helix
 
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