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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 98 polaris storm 800. I installed rail extensions to 136 track with 1.5 paddles. Still has plenty of mid to topend power but kind of a bog at engagement now. Doesn't spin the track when I goose it going slow. Was looking at clutching to increase the engagement rpm. Now it has 10/58 weights and a white or almond looking beehive spring. Currently my max rpms are 8300 which feels good and enguages around 3800 rpms. I mostly trail ride but do open her up on the lakes nearby often.
 

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Not real good for trails, but you could slightly notch the flyweights, Polaris even sells some notched weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont really want to get into notching weights. I do have some 10/60 weights on the shelf but I have no experience or knowledge in what does what to what lol.
 

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I dont really want to get into notching weights. I do have some 10/60 weights on the shelf but I have no experience or knowledge in what does what to what lol.
The 60's will engage at less RPM's then your 10/58's, a spring with more pre-load tension or lighter weights will engage higher.
 

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The Aaen book on clutching is an excellent reference for the science and art of the CVT clutch. If you plan on further modification of your clutching, you really need to buy it.
 

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Get that engagement up around 5000. Make sure your clutch is indexed so when it engages, it is like butter. The triples do not make crap for power down low. My old 600 triple/triple engaged at 5300 and it was super smooth. No issues on the trail. What spring is in the primary? I ran a EPI yellow, 165/310 in the primary.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Currently I have what looks like an almond beehive spring in the primary, secondary is a gold spring in the second hole. Both clutches are good clean and tight. Factory jetting.
20200508_055838.jpg
 

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That primary spring is a 140-330 I believe. Probably sacked out.
The replacement is an Almond round wire same specs.
Belt side clearance in primary should be around .020" or less with a new belt.
Adjust deflection to 1".
Make sure carbs vent hoses are attached to airbox. Do not gut airbox. This makes it run richer.
Airbox must be properly attached to carbs with no leaks.
Synch slides in carbs.
Adjust each slide cable to provide proper .010-.030" gap at throttle lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay thanks, everything is to factory specs, airbox is all there. When I bought it all the vent nipples were broken off and after replacing and attaching the vents the sled ran much better! I also synced the carbs after jetting back to factory. Where is a good place to buy springs? From Polaris? Are the slp springs the same as the factory?
 

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The storm has plenty of low end, but they need some adjustments. First, rpm is best at 8-8100. Check both engine torque stops, they must be tight to the engine, and motor strap, no gap.

If you have stock gearing, you are now geared way too tall for the track. You should go from stock 25/40 with 70P chain 1.60 ratio to at least 24/41. 23/41 and a 68P chain would be better. For example the 1996 storm was geared 1.61, and the SKS model 1.75 with a 133.5x1" track. Far less rotating weight than you have.

Use a 3211065 belt, and keep the deflection adjusted properly to 1.25". Also have the belt to sheave clearance checked, it needs to be .010" to .030". Change the weights to the 10-60, and the primary spring to a venom black/bright green 145/295. I liked the epi 145/280 better back in the day, but the venom will work well. For the secondary ideally find a R12 helix, and use a polaris blue spring with it, in #2 or 3. Otherwise keep the stock secondary but put a silver 7041499 spring in. The gold spring sacks out to quickly.

Last, if you have stock jetting, you need to lean the main jets. What elevation do you ride at?
 

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Hey pockets would an almond/ gold work? 150/290 if I remember correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The storm has plenty of low end, but they need some adjustments. First, rpm is best at 8-8100. Check both engine torque stops, they must be tight to the engine, and motor strap, no gap.

If you have stock gearing, you are now geared way too tall for the track. You should go from stock 25/40 with 70P chain 1.60 ratio to at least 24/41. 23/41 and a 68P chain would be better. For example the 1996 storm was geared 1.61, and the SKS model 1.75 with a 133.5x1" track. Far less rotating weight than you have.

Use a 3211065 belt, and keep the deflection adjusted properly to 1.25". Also have the belt to sheave clearance checked, it needs to be .010" to .030". Change the weights to the 10-60, and the primary spring to a venom black/bright green 145/295. I liked the epi 145/280 better back in the day, but the venom will work well. For the secondary ideally find a R12 helix, and use a polaris blue spring with it, in #2 or 3. Otherwise keep the stock secondary but put a silver 7041499 spring in. The gold spring sacks out to quickly.

Last, if you have stock jetting, you need to lean the main jets. What elevation do you ride at?
Thanks for the information. I actually just finished regearing the sled before I summerized it. Ended up with a 21t and 39t. It has factory jets and I'm at about sea level to maybe 1000.
What will swaping the 60s do for me? That decreases the engagement rpm correct? I also put in a SLP blue but I can't remember what color the stripe was. I do know it was a little me preload then factory. It enguaged at about 4100rpms.
 

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Thanks for the information. I actually just finished regearing the sled before I summerized it. Ended up with a 21t and 39t. It has factory jets and I'm at about sea level to maybe 1000.
What will swaping the 60s do for me? That decreases the engagement rpm correct? I also put in a SLP blue but I can't remember what color the stripe was. I do know it was a little me preload then factory. It enguaged at about 4100rpms.
The 10-60's will lower the rpm slightly, and load the engine harder for better acceleration. The STORM engine comes clutched too light from the factory. You will not see much if any change in engagement rpm. You are geared a bit low at that, it will spin a lot , put will have strong low end from what you have now. The clutches will shift more consistently as well. Find out what the spring colors are you put in, but you really need to look for a helix.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got a chance to look at the sled and it's a blue spring with a red stripe. Haven't pulled the secondary apart to see the helix though.
 
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