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My buddy had the driveshaft bearing failure on his 04 700 edge touring that left them stuck on the trail, so its not uncommon those sleds had that bearing fail. As far as i know there is a zerk fitting on the bearing flange that should be greased more often than polaris recommends in order to push any water or moisture out that accumulates inside the bearing during long rides. I've pumped a shot of grease in mine after a good ride since the sled was new, just don't overdo it and blow out the bearing's seal....never had that bearing fail yet.
 

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By the way thank you Lexus lover for the offer on the service manual I have one myself for this model already. By the way not certain on the speedometer working or not working on last time we wrote I discussed it again with my wife and we're not sure. I've got everything put back together do you think I could drive it on the grass to test things? I'll be able to tell with the speed of was working or not by that as well.
Raise the rear up on a jackstand and run the track. Speedo will show mph if it's working. You need to do that anyway to properly adjust track tension and alignment. The damage you are seeing on the drivers might be due to something getting lodged inside the track like a big chunk of ice or a stick/rock.
 

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In the pics showing the drivers, it appears that there is a metal plate showing inside the window. Is that something that the track is resting on or a object lodged there?.
 

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In the pics showing the drivers, it appears that there is a metal plate showing inside the window. Is that something that the track is resting on or a object lodged there?.
Only thing i can see is there's an old leaf stuck, and you can see what appears part of the front cooler, and rivet through that track window.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Patriot, duh sorry brain fart on jacking it up to test the speedometer. too much time in the sun yesterday I guess. Sorry. On the metal plate,not sure which picture your referring to, if it's the drive belt cogs I don't see a I'm sorry I don't see any metal other than the piece on the track. I'm jacking it from the rear so there's nothing in the front. I put things back together yesterday with the intent to run it a bit and adjust the track, I don't know what else to do at this point, just lube it all up and fire it up I guess. Unfortunately I live in California. And one of the many downsides is I can't find a mechanic anywhere to work on sleds over 10 years old without driving 4 hours so any additional information or advice is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
There's definitely a few leaves I have been removing as I find them. My biggest problem here is the orblem is intermittent and only happens after several hours of riding. And I'll be honest part of the reason I want to fire it up is just to get on and take a ride in the front yard.
 

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Look at Post #13 first picture. Right lower area. Looks like a damaged track between the drive lugs, to the right of the leaf.

Also, that large outer gear is spring loaded to the disengaged position. This is controlled by the shift fork. When stopped and reverse is engaged, the large gear slides outward and engages with the small outer gear. The large gear normally is engaged to the inner large gear that the chain drives. When the large outer gear disengages from the large inner gear and hasn't fully engaged to the small outer gear, the system may act like it's in neutral. This would cause ratcheting and no drive. This is adjustable. See shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Patriot, I will check tonight on that metal. Thanks for the clarification.

Shady, brakes are not stuck and the track is currently loose, I'm loosed it to do this work but going to reset the tension on the track per the specs and then give it a shot, good ideal though I was thinking maybe the track was too loose I don't know enough about these, maybe it was too tight , either way I'll reset it and try it out. Thank you everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have not, it runs perfect for most of the day sometimes for a whole day and then craps out I didn't think compression would be an issue? I'm not following the line of thinking but maybe I can get a compression tester from AutoZone or something. what are you thinking it might be?
 

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Are the brake pads stuck to the rotor? Or parking brake on? Track too tight?
A buddy had a Cat Z1 where the track would lock up randomly.
Found out it was the brakes building heat under normal driving, causing fluid to expand and eventually lock the brake.
 

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A buddy had a Cat Z1 where the track would lock up randomly.
Found out it was the brakes building heat under normal driving, causing fluid to expand and eventually lock the brake.
Wouldn't that require you to be riding the brake lever, or the rotor becoming frozen on the jackshaft splines? Happened to me on an indy 400 where the brake rotor no longer would float on the jackshaft key. Ended up popping the brake line hose spewing brake fluid all over the hot exhaust sending the sled up in a fireball. Lucky was able to pull over quickly and snuff out the fire with snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Alcon, thats very possible you might be on to something. My wife drives it usually and she's an absolute chicken so I bet she uses the brakes way more than I do. She driver's her truck the same way gas and brake constantly. no way I can test that theory until we get some snow It's plausible, thank you very much for suggesting.
 

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as for the speedo not working. I had a 2001 xc800 that the speedo wasn't working and it ended up being that the cable had broken off about halfway up the sheathing. Everything else looked good on the key and bearing and the cable. I was able to pull the cable right out of the sheathing. that was the problem with my speedo not working. If that's the case, the cables are specific and you need the proper part for the year and model. Take pics of the routing of the cable.
 

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One other thing to check. At the end of the driveshaft there is a brass or steel bushing that presses into the shaft for the speedo drive key to seat into, one of mine was bad from the factory and that bushing was just spinning in the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ok thank. You everyone. I've got to go out of town till next week so I'll follow up with you all on these suggestions next weekend. Thank you all.
 

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as for the speedo not working. I had a 2001 xc800 that the speedo wasn't working and it ended up being that the cable had broken off about halfway up the sheathing. Everything else looked good on the key and bearing and the cable. I was able to pull the cable right out of the sheathing. that was the problem with my speedo not working. If that's the case, the cables are specific and you need the proper part for the year and model. Take pics of the routing of the cable.
had the same happen on my 02 xc800. broke at least 3 cables. some froze up and took out the key. 15k miles and bearing was still good
 

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A buddy had a Cat Z1 where the track would lock up randomly.
Found out it was the brakes building heat under normal driving, causing fluid to expand and eventually lock the brake.
I suppose it's possible. A hydraulic brake system should be able to accommodate heat buildup by allowing pressure to be absorbed back into the master cylinder any time the pressure source is removed. It indicates a problem inside the master cylinder or caliper. But, this appears to be a problem of no drive at times as if in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
To clarify the issue, and this was the most recent time we rode ,I can't remember exactly what happened in time before this. So we ride for several hours, plenty of power and no issues, and then, not every day but every couple trips after a few hours the sled will stop. If I let it get back to idle and I'm on flat ground, for a couple second I can get it to go forward for 50 or a 100 feet and then it sounds like a loud rapid clunking when I accelerate, it makes that clunking sound when it's moving that 50 feet but it gets louder as the sled starts to slow. So it stops, I let it get to idle and then we go again. On flat surfaces it will move, with any grade at all though it doesn't have the power to move. I thought belts originally but bought two new and same issues. Candidly I don't know much about clutching, could that be the issue, it was the first thing I went to after the belts but I don't know what I'm doing with those. The spedo to my is suspect anyway because two things my wife does on her truck I think she does here, she never reads the gauges and she goes from gas to brake constantly. I've never had an issue when she wasn't the primary driver so it's starting to look like something in the way she rides. If the brakes end up being the culprit I don't think they should do that but I can maybe change the tension or pull the disc and have it turned possibly. Appreciate the input fellas.
 
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