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Discussion Starter #1
good evening everyone. Ive just gotten back into sledding in the past 2 years and have very much appreciated the advice on this site but i have a problem i cant solve. im mechanically incluned bbq ut still learning how to wrench in these sleds. 2 years ago i bought a 2004 touring 800 for my wife. It had 1500 miles and was perfect condition, fluids were clean etc. I lubed everything, changed the fluids belts and plugs and such anyway after i bought it just so i had a baseline and the first two trips out it ran great no issues. But on the last trip it made some grinding type noise when we started the day but ran fine after it warmed up but after a couple hours it got into some deep powder and started to make loud metallic type noise and the track wouldn't spin consistently and we had to tow it to the top of a trail but were able to drive it with very limited power back to the trailhead. So this year i bought new belts, changed chaincase fluid(some metalic showing in there buy no chunks), adjusted the chain per the manual, pulled and cleaned the secondary clutch and we took it out. It ran great and after a couple hours it did the same thing, it lost consistent power, made that metalic sound and would only run a hundred yards at low speed and then die or bog down. It also intermittently has a slap sound i assume was the belt engaging. If i get off the throttle i could usually get it to go a short distance again and then id have to let it go back to idle. when i tried to restart it sometimes it would turn the track and the sled would go on its own other times it stayed put. i again limped it back to the trailhead. I checked the secondary clutch spring its in good shape and i had the primary looked at by a mechanic, he said it was good, but it was on the machine. im at a loss and could sure use some advice. There is literally only one mechanic in my area that can work on it and he hurt his back so im stuck and cant take the family our without this sled. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Just following that line of thinking:

I've seen a sheered bolt holding the lower gear to the drive shaft, and this caused the gear to float enough that it gouged the inside of the chaincase cover pretty bad. You wouldn't pick up those aluminum filings on the dipstick magnet.

Another thought: Maybe the driveshaft bearing on the chaincase side let go.

Either way, I think you need to take that chaincase cover off and see what's going on.

Does the speedometer still work? If that died about the time this started happening, then it could be either side bearing or possibly both.

Investigate:
Driveshaft bearings - both sides
Chaincase - take the cover off
 

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definately pull the chaincase power and inspect things. I'd also jack up the rear , take off the belt and rotate the sec clutch - does is rotate smoothly?
 

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thinking gearing as well. primary spins the secondary which turns the chain and spins the track. Pull the chain case cover off and take a look. Possible that bottom bolt is fubared and/or threads in jackshaft shot as well. Won't know till you look. I have a service manual for a 2001 polaris 800xc which should be very close to what you need to go through some things. PM me.
 

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If the speedo isn't working, you can almost bet the driveshaft bearing on that side with the speedo cable is toast....happend to a friends 700 touring of the same year.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thank you all this is awsome thats what i like about this site. i had to go out of town enexpectedly for work for the week but ill check the chaincase when next weekend. i dont ride it normally so i will start by confiming the spedo before i remove the cover. thabk you all very much and happy new year.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
btw wife said spedo did not work so i thobk you guys are on to something. was hopijg it was a clurxh or somethibg but it sounds like major surgury may be in order. will keep you all posted.
 

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I would recommend inspecting the chain and gears, nothing worse then breaking down when your out riding with family or friends.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello everyone thank you very much for all your feedback. Wife thought she wanted a divorce for a while there so snowmobile fell to a low priority. I'm back on it now trying to hit it hard. I pulled the chaincase cover off I've attached a photo, other than the ou5side edge of the reverse gear everything looks to be in very good shape. I raised the back end rotated around several times it is smooth as glass. I was going to pull the jackshaft and speedometer but not exactly sure how to do that I don't want to mess anything up in there I assume it's just a speedo like on a vehicle? But I did notice and doing it there was I climbed underneath and the drive gear seems to be chewed up pretty good and several linear lines on them. Makes me think maybe I had too much slack in the track maybe? it only happens at the end of a day and I will think over time that track would warm up? I really don't think it's the chaincase area based on what I'm saying but I don't know what those gears are supposed to look like when they're new?
2105212
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Couple more photos. Also wondering if it's a clutch issue, I pulled that off first time I had the issue. Thanks in advance to everyone I very much appreciate everyone's time and effort.
2105213
2105214
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2105216
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also for what it's worth there's always two people on the sled, probably a about 350 pounds total.
 

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Hello everyone thank you very much for all your feedback. Wife thought she wanted a divorce for a while there so snowmobile fell to a low priority. I'm back on it now trying to hit it hard. I pulled the chaincase cover off I've attached a photo, other than the ou5side edge of the reverse gear everything looks to be in very good shape. I raised the back end rotated around several times it is smooth as glass. I was going to pull the jackshaft and speedometer but not exactly sure how to do that I don't want to mess anything up in there I assume it's just a speedo like on a vehicle? But I did notice and doing it there was I climbed underneath and the drive gear seems to be chewed up pretty good and several linear lines on them. Makes me think maybe I had too much slack in the track maybe? it only happens at the end of a day and I will think over time that track would warm up? I really don't think it's the chaincase area based on what I'm saying but I don't know what those gears are supposed to look like when they're new? View attachment 2105212
Pull the secondary clutch off the jackshaft. Keep track of all washers located behind the secondary. Then loosen the track adjusters so you have enough slack that it relieves the tension on the DRIVESHAFT. Not the jackshaft.
Then unscrew the speedo cable and remove the housing and bearing flangette. If the speedo key is twisted off, it likely happened due to a bad driveshaft bearing. You'll need a new bearing and speedo key. Fish the broken end of the key out with a magnet or a pick tool. Not sure if bearing is pressed on or uses set screws. This is a job for an experienced sled mechanic as you can easily screw it up. If you can't find one, get a shop service manual and look at some videos online for assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Remove the speedometer cable and bearing flange besring in their looks good there's absolutely no slop in any of it speedometer cable is working as expected. the area was well-greased. It took everything else apart but did not remove the bearing cleaned it all up. The speedometer cable coming off of the drive shaft was about 2in long it did not look to be sheared off or anyting. It appears just to slip into the drive shaft? Would you have any more advice? Again thank you for your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
By the way thank you Lexus lover for the offer on the service manual I have one myself for this model already. By the way not certain on the speedometer working or not working on last time we wrote I discussed it again with my wife and we're not sure. I've got everything put back together do you think I could drive it on the grass to test things? I'll be able to tell with the speed of was working or not by that as well.
 

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Are the brake pads stuck to the rotor? Or parking brake on? Track too tight?

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk
 
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