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hey guys, i have been looking for a 600ho and if i get one i want to run pre-mix. is this a must do on the 600ho's, or is it already done? how about the ves also?
 

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i just pulled my 730 apart which is built with 440ho cases 600 crank and big bore jugs,, anyways its got the driled cases for the water pump and the oil was all over the place the gear had no problem getting lubed and looked to be in "brand new condition". Id say its got 1500 miles on it. and 90% was at 8 grand!
 

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Sorry I missed this one Guy.

Taking off the water pump cover doesn't get to the gear cavity so you can't get shavings out that way. If you are careful and turn the motor up side down no shavings will get into the gear cavity.

The stock base gasket for late model 440's and most 600's is the .015" thick one P/N 5812494.

There are 3 other base gaskets available for these motors.

5813069 .006"
5813070 .010"
5813071 .020"

You can do a lot with your motors performance by changing base gaskets, but you have to know what you are doing as you decrease the squish.[/b]
thanks AK

what would the different base gaskets do? i guess a thick base gasket would raise the cyl. up and you would have less compression?
 

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okay Tom, question. I had a 04 440 motor that had the crank sieze at about 500 miles. my question is if i split the cases and do the mod are the cases still good, or are the junk along with the cranks?
 

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okay Tom, question. I had a 04 440 motor that had the crank sieze at about 500 miles. my question is if i split the cases and do the mod are the cases still good, or are the junk along with the cranks?[/b]
It depends if your cases are within tolerance or not. The best thing to do is bring your bottom end to an engine tech or polaris shop and have them check it. Sometimes when the crank locks up, the bearing spins a little in the case and throws them out of tolerance. This can be fixed two ways, if it isn't that far out, the cases can be line bored to true up all the main bearing saddles. If the case is too screwed, you need to replace it. Most of the time the naked Eye can't tell if a case is good or not, so don't listen to your buddy who says "they look fine to me, throw a crank in it and go" because sometimes it works fine, and sometimes (like with my 900) the cases need to be line bored.
 

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Hi, This is great and really informative. Does anybody have any info on converting my 04 PROXR 440 to oil injection?? That is what I would really like to do. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The '04 440 does not have a check valve in the case to oil the center bearing.

The first thing you would have to do is drill the case and install the check valve for the center bearings. The Check valves are about .262" in diameter, so you would need to drill a .250" hole and work it just a tad larger. The check valve will just press into place.

The best method would be to split the cases and drill the hole. You could also inspect your bearings and gear for wear and decide if you want to continue with the '04 motor. I have also seen the check valves installed in the oil pump block off plate, then you don't have to drill into the case.

You would not add an oil line to the PTO Bearing, Leave the zerk and do not ever add grease to it. If you split the cases you would repack the PTO bearing with IsoFlex grease.

You would use the 600HO oil pump. The throttle cable from an '01 440. and have to decide what to use as an oil tank.

I am sorta liking the Polaris Race Tip about manual oiling the center bearing on the '08R. While not the perfect answer it sure seems to be working. This could be done to any motor that has the center check valve already installed.

And you could install a tiny tank just to oil the center bearing, the oil seens to gradually be sucked into the motor. My oil line holds about 4ml. and it takes about 4 gallons of fuel to suck it dry.

Here is how I have my '08R set up. Of course I remove the syringe after I shoot up........
[attachment=440383:DSCN5205.JPG]
 

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Here is how I have my '08R set up. Of course I remove the syringe after I shoot up........
[attachment=440383:DSCN5205.JPG][/b]
lol.


is that a standard syringe? with the oil line pressed over.

what oil is that?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
It's empty now. I put the syringe on for the picture.

The line stays in place, the syringe is removed and put in the tool box between useage.

You are supposed to use any 2-stroke oil.
 

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I like how you keep the line on the injection fitting so you don't have to pull off the carbs every time. How often do you do that for a 08 600 IQ race Trail rode sled?
 

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AkIQPilot: This is not even a new fix, some have been doing it for years. I got the idea from a pm I got, (not my idea of course) and I do think its great that you did a post on it, (BUT AT THE SAMETIME) when I put a post on it. You blew it off like it was a POS idea.
And that there was no way a (ONE WAY VAVLE WOULD DRAW OIL IN IT). Funny I guess that polaris had to post it first.

Just keeping things on the same playing field.
 

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First I would like to say sorry on my last post, it sounded mean and pissy. Sorry AkIQPilot:

I would like to know if anyone has tried a gang valve with a tank on this mod, I have been running mine straight from my tank to the oil line. And it puts in to much oil, so I thought a brass valve from a fish tank would work to control the oil flow. But have not tried it yet and thought someone on here has done it and knows how it worked.

Thanks all !!!
 

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For the last post:


Bump: Funny no one here has run or tried this mod:
QUOTE(AkIQPilot @ Mar 3 2008, 02:00 PM)
Here is how I have my '08R set up. Of course I remove the syringe after I shoot up........

Reduced 57%

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lol.


is that a standard syringe? with the oil line pressed over.

what oil is that?

AkIQPilot Posted Mar 3 2008, 12:00 PM
The '04 440 does not have a check valve in the case to oil the center bearing.

The first thing you would have to do is drill the case and install the check valve for the center bearings. The Check valves are about .262" in diameter, so you would need to drill a .250" hole and work it just a tad larger. The check valve will just press into place.

The best method would be to split the cases and drill the hole. You could also inspect your bearings and gear for wear and decide if you want to continue with the '04 motor. I have also seen the check valves installed in the oil pump block off plate, then you don't have to drill into the case.

You would not add an oil line to the PTO Bearing, Leave the zerk and do not ever add grease to it. If you split the cases you would repack the PTO bearing with IsoFlex grease.

You would use the 600HO oil pump. The throttle cable from an '01 440. and have to decide what to use as an oil tank.

I am sorta liking the Polaris Race Tip about manual oiling the center bearing on the '08R. While not the perfect answer it sure seems to be working. This could be done to any motor that has the center check valve already installed.

And you could install a tiny tank just to oil the center bearing, the oil seens to gradually be sucked into the motor. My oil line holds about 4ml. and it takes about 4 gallons of fuel to suck it dry.

Here is how I have my '08R set up. Of course I remove the syringe after I shoot up........

Reduced 57%

1024 x 768 (169.25K)
 

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Hey Tom, where did you find a syringe with the amount marks on it that fits? Also, how much oil are you shooting in it, the recommended 10ccs by Polaris?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hey Tom, where did you find a syringe with the amount marks on it that fits? Also, how much oil are you shooting in it, the recommended 10ccs by Polaris?[/b]
I get the syringes from a local pet store. They are vetenary syringes. They come in several different sizes from 5ml to 25ml all with the same sized tip. That one is a 12ml. I inject about 5ml (cc's) every tank of gas.

After talking to the Poo Race Department they said the oiling of the '08 center bearing wasn't really necessary. They said early in the season last year they had 4 motors go down with center bearing issues. They put out the bulliten thinking extra oil would help eliminate or at least minimize the problem. They heard of no additional center bearing issues after the bulliten. They were able to get their hands on a couple of the motors that failed and they found the machining tolerances on the cases was too tight and this is what caused the bearing failure. They narrowed it down to just a few motors with sequential serial numbers. They did not retract the bulliten because they were not sure if there were possibly more motors out there with a similar problem. Their thinking now is if you oiled your bearing and it didn't fail then it's all loosened up now and should not need any more oil. If you never oiled your bearing and it didn't fail you are A-OK because you didn't have the problem in the first place.

For '09 they made changes to the cooling in the cases and waterpump/bearing area and this problem is eliminated. The '09 motors don't even have the check valve for the center bearing.......which is a little bit of an issue if you want to add oil injection.
 

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i blew my center crank bearing last year and fixd it and drilled one hole in the case and the same thing happend this saturday and i only put about 200 miles on it since wats did i do wrong someone please pm
 
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