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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Originally posted by 128JetSnake@Sep 19 2005, 09:16 PM
Did you use a lot of oil?
it seemed like it but i never calculated. after reading up on it in the last few months, that's one of the things on my "as soon as the snow flies" list.
thanks
 

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It looks to be a bit on the rich side...beter safe then sorry!!!

Why the tear-down, everything looks great, was in low on compression?, high miles?, giving you trouble?

As long as it ran well and you like the way it performed, I would put it back together and not touch a thing.

If you want more performance, you definitely have room to play, I would keep it simple, PAC system, clutch kit, thats about it.

Good luck, have a great winter...if it ever gets here
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by Judah Ben-Hur@Sep 19 2005, 10:35 PM
The only way to tell is to take it on a wide open throttle blast and kill the power and get her stopped quick, then look.  Idling it around will soot it up and mislead your readings.  You only need a good 1,000 ft to 1/4 blast.
that's the only way i knew how to check - using a light to check piston wash (not real great at it yet but i'm learning) i figured i'd ask around to see there was anything to be seen from those pics.
to answer some q's: the tear-down is b/c i'm getting a port job. it's carbed, so no PAC/feul mod needed. and i currently have d&d monster twins, vforce's, and what started off as dan's clutch kit. i'm ordering the timing key this week and have bikeman's spacers & big air intake that haven't been installed yet.
one last q: should i have to jet up after the porting? currently i'm running 470's
thanks
 

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Hard to tell from those pic's but looks like you need a BUNCH more fuel. Where is the wash? Adding timing to that setup you will see the exhaust edge of the piston start to go bye bye.

Matt
 

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Originally posted by jjkGURU@Sep 20 2005, 06:55 AM
^^yup.  but that's because i didn't 'kill switch' it from WOT - or at least that's my understanding...
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No way. Should see wash no matter what. Killing it at WOT you will be able to read the wash from the main jet. You NEED to do some testing and tuning.

You should test/check the wash in four positions. 1/4-1/2-3/4-WOT
You could be fine on the bottom and top yet stupid lean in the mid. If thats the case you can kiss those pistons good bye with the added timing. JMO

Matt
 

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IT looks like alot of soot from to much oil or lesser grade oil.

Did you keep the spark plugs? Did you keep them seporate?

Can you turn the plugs back in the head and take another picture of the head with the plug in it? It looks to me you have the ground electrode pointing to the intake not the exe. port.

I would just clean re-ring and put her back together.
 

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Yeah, like previously stated. You need to do a WOT run and hit the kill switch to get a good reading of piston wash. But you have so much build-up on the head and top of the pistons, that didn't happen just idling through the yard.

I also agree that you have too much oil running through and that's why you can't get a good piston wash reading.

My F6 is going to the deal tomorrow for an oil pump volume test. Engineers from Cat recommended it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Originally posted by 128JetSnake@Sep 20 2005, 11:08 AM
My F6 is going to the deal tomorrow for an oil pump volume test. Engineers from Cat recommended it.
didn't know they did that. how much$?
here's a pic of the exhaust manifold on the cyl - if you look close you can see they don't line up, the manifold is a 1mm or 2mm larger. i know the pic sucks, but i just took it with my camera phone. it seems to me that the transition should be much smoother than just that 1-2mm drop off. is that something that could be cleaned up by porting?
thanks again guys
 
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