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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been on the F7 too long. I just bought a 18 xrs off a buddy. He spring checked a Mach z.
the sled has many add ons that makes sense. Fan cool on clutch, clutch kit with bracing, vents, shimmed 056, clutch brace, bumpers, and many others, led with auxiliary headlight. I’m 57 and only ride about 7 times per year. 1000 miles a year are fine with me. Hopefully the rider forward will help and not bother my old knees. Felt comfortable buying from someone I know over Craigslist guys
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Liked the look of it when you posted it before, i would add handguards, and
inspect the whole sled.... Good summer project......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went through it for 2 hours last time. Found a small tear in limiter strap, easy fix already done. One panel of the wrap bubbled and scs sent a new piece, also done. Going to take off the can and put stock exhaust back on. He has the hand guards and is going to give them to me. He threw in a cover and spare drive belt and clutch belt, plus all take offs gears and chains, expansion chamber. Original clutch parts etc... too bad the warranty is up in November
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2016 1200 Renegade X
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Nice sled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapajunk Pro
 

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Maybe bring it to a dealer and have them inspect it while it is under warrantee. They can also check for any recalls. Ask about secondary rollers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Secondary rollers were replaced with Fett Bros hard ones. The did rave valve seals today. They ran the computer, no codes, fuel line recall was done. Mechanic loved this sled and said it just needs snow
 

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Been on the F7 too long. I just bought a 18 xrs off a buddy. He spring checked a Mach z.
the sled has many add ons that makes sense. Fan cool on clutch, clutch kit with bracing, vents, shimmed 056, clutch brace, bumpers, and many others, led with auxiliary headlight. I’m 57 and only ride about 7 times per year. 1000 miles a year are fine with me. Hopefully the rider forward will help and not bother my old knees. Felt comfortable buying from someone I know over Craigslist guys View attachment 2121006 View attachment 2121007 View attachment 2121008 View attachment 2121009
i think once you ride that you will be looking for more than 1000 miles
 

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Congrats on your new ride. F7’s were good.....but IMO, they stopped being comfortable 15(+) years ago. On that new sled......I would recommend checking every one of those studs, and tightening them as needed.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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You were always the voice of reason. You definitely know your stuff. The studs were all torqued down to 28 ft lbs. the normal flat backers were a little loose. The star stud backers were all still tight
Sent two idlers back to tricked Toys. They were the ones that were over studs. Tricked toys is going to replace the rubber inserts for me
Waiting on the stock exhaust to come down from Maine so I can swap it out. I have someone who back country rides who wants it for his Summit. I’ll never use it. Just a good shelf ornament. It would make a good lamp though
The ride lite has a broken wire to the 9 volt battery. No room to solder. It works fine plugged in
 

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zr8rider, thanks. I try.
I was concerned about a few of those studs, that one set of crooked looking ones there in your picture. Few Nuts look like they might be loose. I feel like I see a few tracks wrecked every year because the studs are loose and guys don’t notice it until things start flying out. I like torque specifications, but torquing a stud to a certain spec can result in very different things depending on stuff like the -temperature of the track, (cold t acts are stiff ehh), if there is any moisture under the head of the stud acting as lube, is the stud brand new meaning the rubber has not been compressed, or has the stud been replaced and the rubber is already squashed flat? Lots of variables, but the thing that needs to be constant is that they just need to be tight. I recheck every new stud after a few rides when the machine is new, and then at least once a season after that. Also noticed in the picture that it looks like some of the heads could be contacting each other, causing the studs to tip. (That will also make the heads want to tilt up into those nice wheels, right.) That can happen to the best of it, easiest way to fix it is to remove those studs and grind flat spots into the heads so that they do not contact each other and will sit flat into the rubber. That’s a simple thing that just never seems to occur to some guys when they mess up and get their holes a little bit close together. I have literally seen one stud head sitting on top of the other one. And the guy wonders why his wheels and drivers are tore up.
 
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