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Have you done any actually testing? Is the voltage actually "Pulsing". Do your spot lights work fine wired direct? What do you have plugged into the accessory plugs, if the draw is not too much just split it there, if its something like a 12v plug run that direct to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Try this to add items, I assume a 2108 has the SAE plug under hood, or you can just keep shitting on people trying to help you.


https://www.amazon.ca/SinLoon-Exten...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
First of all I am not trying to $hit on anybody but its clear that many dont read the post they are responding to.

secondly, thanks for that link. I already have a USB charger hooked up to that plug under the dash but I heard that plug has a like 2amp fuse on it so its not a good option for a heated shield much less multiple hook ups? :dunno:
 

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So I know electronics pretty good, I know sleds pretty good, I don't know the helmet.
1) Is there any indication on the helmet manual or internet about what a flashing LED might mean?
2) Hooked up directly to the 12V battery should be the cleanest source of power on the sled and the fact that it works with the sled off indicates the helmet is receiving power

3) Two things change when sled is running... Voltage goes up due to stator charging the sled and vibration. The voltage is also "noisier" (not as stable) due to the conversion of the alternating current at the stator to the DC voltage required by the sled and the voltage regulation required to limit the voltage to about 13.8V for charging without overcharging the battery.


So easy one first, vibration, look for loose connection, pay particular attention to any inline fuses, crimped on connectors and the connection at the battery.


The noisy/higher voltage electronics is a bit harder, it could be the sled charging circuit/voltage regulator is somewhat faulty, or the helmet is particularly sensitive. Do you have another 2 stroke vehicle you can plug into? Try on another vehicle, even if it is your car. If the behavior is consistent across a different vehicles then it is definitely the helmet being too sensitive. If the problem is exclusive to your sled, See if you can find a friend or shop that has a oscilloscope which is a piece of test gear that display voltage against time on a graph like display. It will show how well the voltage regulator is functioning. The one on my sled shows very brief surges to over 20V but this is deemed normal and is expected... if you go this route let me know here and I will get you a picture of what the voltage on my sled looks like. However if the average voltage on your sled when running is significantly over 14 volts, then you likely have an issue with the voltage regulation on your sled.


Hope this helps.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So I know electronics pretty good, I know sleds pretty good, I don't know the helmet.
1) Is there any indication on the helmet manual or internet about what a flashing LED might mean?
2) Hooked up directly to the 12V battery should be the cleanest source of power on the sled and the fact that it works with the sled off indicates the helmet is receiving power

3) Two things change when sled is running... Voltage goes up due to stator charging the sled and vibration. The voltage is also "noisier" (not as stable) due to the conversion of the alternating current at the stator to the DC voltage required by the sled and the voltage regulation required to limit the voltage to about 13.8V for charging without overcharging the battery.


So easy one first, vibration, look for loose connection, pay particular attention to any inline fuses, crimped on connectors and the connection at the battery.


The noisy/higher voltage electronics is a bit harder, it could be the sled charging circuit/voltage regulator is somewhat faulty, or the helmet is particularly sensitive. Do you have another 2 stroke vehicle you can plug into? Try on another vehicle, even if it is your car. If the behavior is consistent across a different vehicles then it is definitely the helmet being too sensitive. If the problem is exclusive to your sled, See if you can find a friend or shop that has a oscilloscope which is a piece of test gear that display voltage against time on a graph like display. It will show how well the voltage regulator is functioning. The one on my sled shows very brief surges to over 20V but this is deemed normal and is expected... if you go this route let me know here and I will get you a picture of what the voltage on my sled looks like. However if the average voltage on your sled when running is significantly over 14 volts, then you likely have an issue with the voltage regulation on your sled.


Hope this helps.


Mike
Thank you, Mike! I am in the process of elimination now and am checking all of the things you mentioned. Once I get it figured out I want to install a multi port source from the battery so I can add some more accessories. Thanks again!
 

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Just keep in mind, the stator on the sled does not have a alot of excess capacity compared to say a car with an alternator. You need to leave some capacity for charging the battery.



Mike



Thank you, Mike! I am in the process of elimination now and am checking all of the things you mentioned. Once I get it figured out I want to install a multi port source from the battery so I can add some more accessories. Thanks again!
 

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2014 Polaris Indy 800 XC / 2005 Polaris Indy 800 XCSp
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Bought a new oxygen on recommendations from friends and all of the factory accessory plugs are being used so i wired it straight to the battery. When the sled isnt running the helmet and adjuster work fine but as soon as the sled is running everything goes haywire. The controller doesnt work it just flashes and the rear light on the helmet flashes. Anyone know what is going on here? I am not an electrical guru and let me restate that that it is wired directly to the battery. Any help is appreciated
I just bought one & hooked it up to a 14 Indy.
Bought a new oxygen on recommendations from friends and all of the factory accessory plugs are being used so i wired it straight to the battery. When the sled isnt running the helmet and adjuster work fine but as soon as the sled is running everything goes haywire. The controller doesnt work it just flashes and the rear light on the helmet flashes. Anyone know what is going on here? I am not an electrical guru and let me restate that that it is wired directly to the battery. Any help is appreciated
Just bought one & tried hooking it up to my 14 Indy xc sp. No red light on back, would illuminate on low only, & wouldn t adjust up. My sales rep called BRP rep.. BRP said it needs to be wired DC directly to battery on Polaris. Then all should be well.
If I remember correctly the the AV jack for the shield on Polaris is AC current & that would be why it is not functioning properly. It needs to be DC current.
So they make av DC harnesses that hook directly to the battery. Make sure you fuse it., good luck. I haven t had a chance to rewire mine yet.
 

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I just bought one & hooked it up to a 14 Indy.

Just bought one & tried hooking it up to my 14 Indy xc sp. No red light on back, would illuminate on low only, & wouldn t adjust up. My sales rep called BRP rep.. BRP said it needs to be wired DC directly to battery on Polaris. Then all should be well.
If I remember correctly the the AV jack for the shield on Polaris is AC current & that would be why it is not functioning properly. It needs to be DC current.
So they make av DC harnesses that hook directly to the battery. Make sure you fuse it., good luck. I haven t had a chance to rewire mine yet.
The MY15up AXYS sleds, have NO AC power to any of the circuits. They are entirely DC after the Regulator/Rectifier. The Original Poster could have a bad Regulator/Rectifier

If you look at the Wiring Diagram for a MY18 800 Switchback Assault, you will see several capacitors, they are used for smoothing of the voltage peaks on the various DC circuits. If any of them are bad, they will cause havoc in some electronics due to voltage spikes not being controlled.

Cleanup, and make SURE you have a very good connection to the battery posts AND chassis ground, both for the Polaris wiring harness, the starter, AND your pigtail to the RCA jack for the helmet shield. Vibration could be causing a problem, it might even be a poor connection in the RCA jack.
 

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The MY15up AXYS sleds, have NO AC power to any of the circuits. They are entirely DC after the Regulator/Rectifier. The Original Poster could have a bad Regulator/Rectifier

If you look at the Wiring Diagram for a MY18 800 Switchback Assault, you will see several capacitors, they are used for smoothing of the voltage peaks on the various DC circuits. If any of them are bad, they will cause havoc in some electronics due to voltage spikes not being controlled.

Cleanup, and make SURE you have a very good connection to the battery posts AND chassis ground, both for the Polaris wiring harness, the starter, AND your pigtail to the RCA jack for the helmet shield. Vibration could be causing a problem, it might even be a poor connection in the RCA jack.
So my AV Jack was producing AC current not DC current. Wired my AV Jack to the battery and all is good everything works now on the oxygen helmet.
 

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2021 SB 850 Pro-S 2016 SB 800 Pro-S
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Could an AC to DC rectifier also solve the issue if not going right to the battery?
 

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Could an AC to DC rectifier also solve the issue if not going right to the battery?
I am only going to address this problem, if this occurs on an AXYS sled.

All the electrical circuits provide DC power. Unfortunately even a properly operating voltage regulator/rectifier allows some voltage spikes up to 20 volts. That is why the sled is equipped with several capacitors, depending on the year, and THEY are intended to reduce these voltage spikes.

If the voltage regulator/rectifier is faulty, it needs to be replaced, it is allowing AC into electronics, and/or allowing overvoltage conditions.

If the large capacitors are faulty, they are allowing voltage spikes into electronics and they should be replaced.

Something is wrong with the Original Posters setup for the Oxygen helmet OR with the sleds wiring system itself, and that should be fixed, before other electronics could be damaged. At best, another rectifier would mask the problem that the electrical system of this sled, has.
 

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Don't hook direct to battery .
You did read the part, where he said it works fine hooked up directly to the battery, if the engine is NOT running?
 
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