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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 04 800 is over heating.
> I changed the water pump belt (it was strechted a liitle not broke)
> new thermostat and overfill cap

I've been trying to bleed there air out of the system but just seems to be getting more in some how. I have tried bleeding the air 20 times with the front end elevated. Then when I ride it seems to suck the bottle way down. When I open the filler cap it sucks in air and fills the bottle back up. I've read the bottle can go bad ? How do you tell ?

Any help would be appreciated - Thanks
 

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You don't open the filler cap to bleed air out, you loosen the nut/ screw on top of the thermostat housing. Let it run at idle until coolant starts to come out, then tighten back up.
 

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You may have to do it 2-3 times as well. I would suggest getting the rear AUX cooler as well. A little extra cooling on these sleds is a good thing unless you ride in good snow conditions all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do bleed at the top of the thermostat. I start by elevating the front of the sled run engine until coolant heats up and cycles shut it off, then bleed air off at set screw. I repeated this probably five times in the garage. Then I drove the sled around and parked the front end up on a snow bank and repeated steps.

What happens is my coolant in the bottle almost goes to the bottom. When I take the cap off to fill it up it gurgles and fills the bottle back up with coolant.

I am running all the usual mods airbox, reeds, pipe and a RKTEK head. I didn't change anything this year but now it is overheating.

So I don't know if I'm not getting all the air out, is the bottle bad, is my impeller bad ?? I don't see any coolant leaks in the coolers.

I'm not sure what else can be wrong ? I have thought about an extra cooler in the past but haven't needed it yet ?
 

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The motor needs to be RUNNING when you are bleeding the coolant. The only way all of the air can escape is if the motor is circulating it towards the bleeder screw.
 

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there should never be enough air in your cooling system to bleed it more then a couple of times. if i drain all of the coolant out of my sled, including the coolers, it usually has no air after one maybe two bleeds. you might have a problem with something like the o-rings on the head, but that usually pressurizes the system, not turn it into a vacuum. you might want to suck all of the coolant out of the sled down to the bottom of the motor and refill it, otherwisw i have no idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahhh - The motor should be running. I believe that's what I did when I put the head on.
I'm probably creating the problem for myself. I thought I read that you should shut off to bleed so I was trying it that way.

The older motors I've worked on you would run and add coolant in the bottle.
Thanks for the info - I will have to try this when I can work on it this Sunday.
 

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I had an auxillary cooler in a 600 pro-x and had the same problem, rest assured it is a air lock. What I did was let the hoses get warm, keep a high idle, bleed the top screw, letting coolant spray all over. Then I jack the front end up and squeeze the hoses till you can see the coolant level rise and settle in the bottle. This way you know that all the coolant is moving. May take a couple times. I never had a problem with heat in my 800 and I didn't have a aux cooler. I found with the cooler in my 600 I got alot of random air locks.
 

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My friend Dan rebuilt his 800 pro x after it blew a belt and fried on the trail. Well he had the same issue as you. He thought he bled the system enough and when we went out for a ride he heated up again. Got so pissed, he drove it like he stole it until he fried it again. LOL
The second time he rebuilt it, he asked how to bleed the system, now he's ok. So good thing you asked and can get it right.
 

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Sled needs to be running when you crack the bleed screw on the water neck, and leave the cap off the bottle, and keep filling it. You should see the coolant circulating into the bottle.
 

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I just had the same thing happen. The water pump impeller was bad on my 04' 700. The two flat spots on the impeller were worn out.
 

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Had the same problem. Raise the front of the sled, fill with coolant. Insert thermostat and sceal it up. Fill coolant bottle, start and run at high idle. Coolant will be drawn from the bottle. Refill bottle, cap it, then lay the sled on it's left side (clutch) and keep at high idle. That will purge the air out of the rear cross-over water hose.

Let the motor cool completely. Refill the coolant bottle, and repeat until coolant level remains constant. I only use the bleed screw at the very end.
 

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jack up front of sled, get the skies 10" to a foot higher than rear of track, fill cooling system, leave reservoir cap off, run till rear coolers get warm, keep refilling reservoir , and make sure that the highest part in the cooling system is the reservoir bottle, rev motor now and then and keep topping off. crack the bleeder screw on top of gooseneck when finished their should be no or little air, cap reservoir and take for a blast...should be and stay full , and if it needs topping off it wont be any more than a couple of teaspoons worth......im a 16 year mechanic and done this many a time...
 

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jack up front of sled, get the skies 10" to a foot higher than rear of track, fill cooling system, leave reservoir cap off, run till rear coolers get warm, keep refilling reservoir , and make sure that the highest part in the cooling system is the reservoir bottle, rev motor now and then and keep topping off. crack the bleeder screw on top of gooseneck when finished their should be no or little air, cap reservoir and take for a blast...should be and stay full , and if it needs topping off it wont be any more than a couple of teaspoons worth......im a 16 year mechanic and done this many a time...[/b]

I had the same problem too, expect my water pump shaft bearings went. The belt popped off, and the oil pump wasnt running. I had to replace it all, but I'm sure you get the point by now how to do it, but watch to make sure that water pump gear IS turning, because if its not, there is NO OIL being pumped. Me, I kept trying to bleed the system with no oil. No good.
 

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Had a problem this weekend. :(

My sled was running great all day, then all of the sudden it started overheating. So, I pull the thermostat on the trail and the pin had kicked out sideways on the spring and had the thermo. held closed. So I pulled the thermostat out and tried running that way and the sled was still overheating but coolers were still cold, so the coolant wasn't circulating for some reason.

When I got home I looked at the impellar and it looked fine, but I could spin it freely. The impellar shouldn't be able to turn freely by hand if the belt and shaft are in working order....correct? :dunno:

When my sleds thermo screwed up and the sled got hot (280 +), is there something else that would burn up with the pumping mech. or was it just a coincidence, that I found a broke thermostat and now the coolant isn't flowing.

I have not checked the belt, because the motor has to be pulled and I did not have the time to dig that deep. I had enough time to pull the pipes and check the impellar and like I said, it visually looks fine but I can spin the impellar by hand.....Is that normal?

:dunno:
 

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Had a problem this weekend. :(

My sled was running great all day, then all of the sudden it started overheating. So, I pull the thermostat on the trail and the pin had kicked out sideways on the spring and had the thermo. held closed. So I pulled the thermostat out and tried running that way and the sled was still overheating but coolers were still cold, so the coolant was circulating for some reason.

When I got home I looked at the impellar and it looked fine, but I could spin it freely. The impellar shouldn't be able to turn freely by hand if the belt and shaft are in working order....correct? :dunno:

When my sleds thermo screwed up and the sled got hot (280 +), is there something else that would burn up with the pumping mech. or was it just a coincidence, that I found a broke thermostat and now the coolant isn't flowing.

I have not checked the belt, because the motor has to be pulled and I did not have the time to dig that deep. I had enough time to pull the pipes and check the impellar and like I said, it visually looks fine but I can spin the impellar by hand.....Is that normal?

:dunno:[/b]
Not normal, I put a stud through the front heat exchanger on my pro x 7, over heated it. Fixed the exchanger and still i had no circulation. After I had banged my head off the bench 10 times because nothing else would fix the problem i pulled the motor and the water pump cover to find that the impeller was bad. I pulled it off and found that the two flat spots were gone. come on poo, this was not a very good design. I hope this helps
 

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Not normal, I put a stud through the front heat exchanger on my pro x 7, over heated it. Fixed the exchanger and still i had no circulation. After I had banged my head off the bench 10 times because nothing else would fix the problem i pulled the motor and the water pump cover to find that the impeller was bad. I pulled it off and found that the two flat spots were gone. come on poo, this was not a very good design. I hope this helps[/b]
What do you mean by "two flat spots", Is that on the shaft or on the impellar?
Are you saying that the back of the impellar where the shaft attaches to the impellar, the connection there is stripped out. So my shaft is prolly moving but the impellar won't because it is no longer secured to the shaft. :dunno:

I just looked at the impellar because it was all that I could look at, at that time. It looked like there was no physical damage to the impellar itself, but it would spin freely so that made me think the belt was bad or off. :dunno:

Any help is appreciated, I don't have the time to fix it for a while, but it would be nice to know ahead of time what parts I would possibly need.
 

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What do you mean by "two flat spots", Is that on the shaft or on the impellar?
Are you saying that the back of the impellar where the shaft attaches to the impellar, the connection there is stripped out. So my shaft is prolly moving but the impellar won't because it is no longer secured to the shaft. :dunno:

I just looked at the impellar because it was all that I could look at, at that time. It looked like there was no physical damage to the impellar itself, but it would spin freely so that made me think the belt was bad or off. :dunno:

Any help is appreciated, I don't have the time to fix it for a while, but it would be nice to know ahead of time what parts I would possibly need.[/b]
check and make sure that the impeller is not just spinning on the shaft, u can take the impeller of easily, to see if the flat spots are gone, hope it helps
 

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check and make sure that the impeller is not just spinning on the shaft, u can take the impeller of easily, to see if the flat spots are gone, hope it helps[/b]
Thanks, I should have looked at that. I tried using the performance manual but that didn't have to much info. :beer_cheers:
 

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My 04 800 is over heating.
> I changed the water pump belt (it was strechted a liitle not broke)
> new thermostat and overfill cap

I've been trying to bleed there air out of the system but just seems to be getting more in some how. I have tried bleeding the air 20 times with the front end elevated. Then when I ride it seems to suck the bottle way down. When I open the filler cap it sucks in air and fills the bottle back up. I've read the bottle can go bad ? How do you tell ?

Any help would be appreciated - Thanks[/b]
Look at the opening on the top of the bottle. If it is oblonged/ovaled out, you need to replace it. It will not seal properly and keep pressure. Sounds like it is good if it sucks aire after removing the cap though.
 
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