[vanvalkr]

If anyone that might know what may be wrong would be great help. I have a 02 AC zr 440 sno pro with 1000 miles and will not stay running. This is what happened, first a couple wires got messed up so a new wiring harness was installed but sat about 2 months in the middle of the winter before getting fixed. Wiring was installed correctly and ever since the sled will fire right up but then will stall after running for about 10 seconds and its getting plenty of gas cause the plugs are wet and a little gas and oil comes out of the exhaust when i try to keep running it. I have cleaned the carbs multiple times, checked compression and checked for spark and all checks out good except the compression is a little low at 110 psi but both are the same but the sled should still run on 110 compression. I have called the AC race dep for help and i gotta call them again after checking a few things but i was hoping this has happened to someone else and they know how to fix it. Thanks for any info. My next step is rebuilding the fuel pump and carbs.

Thanks,
Ron

 

[sayatodaU.P.eh?]

moving this over to the a/c forum for ya.

 

[iwzrt]

i would check compression again . I had same problem with a Z 370 that it wouldnt run properly after it ran for a few seconds .I had to change the rings on it. It had 115 psi but still wouldnt run properly till i changed them.. Or the crank seal on the mag side maybe gone. I have also had problem with my ZRT 800 starting and shutting down. I had problem with the CDI on that one . I hope this helps
:beerchug:

 

[zeppelin]

could be to low compression, it doesnt want to idle. but it could also be a bad spark and thats why it doesnt want to stay running. I would check the spark plug caps, wires to make sure all the connections are tight.

 

[zeppelin]

if it was the carbs or fuel pump the plugs would be dry from no gas. If its the crank seal you will notice is jumping and falling rpm's before stalling. If thats the case spray a little starter fluid behind the primary clutch on the bearing and if it jumps in rpm you have a PTO side crank seal leak.

 

[vanvalkr]

thanks for the info guys, the AC tech from the racing dep. said its most likely spark or fuel problem. He said if the pump is bad that it would just pour in the gas and could flood the engine out also the floats could be out of adjustment which would flood the engine also. I am gonna check the crank seal in a few minutes, also if the cdi was bad the AC guy said it wouldn't even start. I also checked the caps and the wires, they look good. I also got a spark tester and the one wire seems to be quitting on spark when the engine dies out sooner then the other buts its hard to tell with only one tester.

Thanks,
Ron

 

[vanvalkr]

i think i found the problem, the servo does not move at all and just found out that when the wires got messed up that it smelt like burnt electronics so therefore the cdi box most likely burnt out, so if anyone has one for a 01-02 440 sno pro please let me know, thanks for the help guys.

 

[zeppelin]

IMO i doubt its the cdi, if it were burnt out the sled wouldnt start. the servo motor wouldnt affect low end, only top end. If the fuel pump broke it wouldnt poor gas into the motor because the floats would stop the gas(if working proper)

Im not really sure what it is, but i can help you eliminate some of your questions.

GL

 

[vanvalkr]

I have been talking to D&D racing and the Arctic cat race department and we have it down to either the cdi or the cd ignition box, the race tech for both said that when the cdi's or the black box(Cd ignition) burn out that this would happen, they said both boxes run both the servo and the ignition so it is possible.

 

[zeppelin]

yes... when you start you sled does your servo motor cycle? it should open and close again. do your lights work? If your lights work your cdi box is fine. Its all a closed circuit and when you ground it, it grounds everything. so if you burn out one thing, you burn it all.

It could be that the ground on your motor isnt hooked up well and when you touch the gas the extra amp's the motor is pushing isnt getting grounded but over amping all the electrics and shutting down.

i would be carefull because if you hammer the gas and your ground isnt hooked up everything is gone, tach lights cdi..... etc But your lights will be first, so thats a sign.

 

[vanvalkr]

well i just ordered a brand new cdi and cd ignition box today for only $200, so if its not it then i have a set of spares which is not bad to have anyway, if those are not it then i will try something else. I know what exactly u are saying zep and the grounds are all good, the servo motor will not cycle at all. I don't know exactly what each computer box did until the tech explained it to me and the small black box(cd ignition) controls the servo and the timing so if anything that should be bad and i do agree with u on the cdi box but i got such a good deal on them i decided just to buy them both, i will find out if they help this coming week so i will let u know if either one solves my problem.

 

[zeppelin]

hopefully you figure it out, ill have some pics of my mess this weekend i still have to put together, including riviting the bulkhead and tunnel backtogether, then putting everything back on.

UGH