Hardcore Sledder banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever bench tested their big block oil pump?
I tried it last week with a drill running in reverse. I had no oil coming out of the bearing lines and a slow drip out of the line to the pump (with the metal flow reducer in-line).
Do the bearings only get oil to them at higher rpms?
Is there anything in the service manual about this for the XC700-800s?
Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,019 Posts
Did you hold the arm at wot.

Bearing oil ports are a lot less.

Engine rpm are a lot greater then a drill, so your not going to get a big flow.

I run my pump with a drill also. after a rebuild with all oil lines hooked up, with a drill. Primes everything nice, remove all air.

What is a metal flow reducer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is a metal tube in the line between the oil pump and the fuel pump. I'm assuming it's some type of flow control to meter oil to the fuel pump. I'll check the parts microfiche to make sure.
Good point about the pump arm. I'll have to check it out again.

Microfiche says it's an in-line check valve.
7051019 VALVE,CHECK,IN-LINE
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,019 Posts
What year sled are you working on?

There is no line from the fuel pump to the oil pump on late modle 700/800.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I tried again spinning the pump with a drill. Oil drips from the line to the fuel pump, but nothing seems to be going to the crank bearings.
To be safe I premixed 50:1 in my tank and ran the engine. I warmed it up and ran it for about 10 min. After the 10 min there is still air pockets in the lines to the crank bearings. I tried pulling one line off while it was running and nothing is coming out. I also tried manually opening the pump while running to pump more oil.
What gives? Is my pump shot?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
These oil pumps are designed to fail open. To bleed the air from the lines...one way is to hold the oil pump arm full open while the engine is at idle. An earlier post says he uses a drill with success.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,019 Posts
That does seem a little strange that in all this time you have no oil coming out the bearing line.

As for a later model twin that I'm used to the oil does flow even with a drill out the bearing oilers.

Disconnect the lines from the bearing fittings and try if you have not already.

Can't give you a definate answer on that year.

The pump does not go to full open upon a INTERNAL pump failure.
But goes to full open on the pump arm if the cable brakes, the spring on the arm takes it to the open position or wot position.

Did you ask this question on snowest?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I should also mention that I'm rebuilding after I smeared a piston. I am running wisecos. I thought the failure was due to clearance issues, but now I'm thinking it's a lubrication issue.
When I'm running the pump with a drill or even with it running with the engine, you can see the oil "pulse" every second or so from the crankshaft fittings on the pump. It doesn't even drip. You can see that the pump is trying to push the oil, but it's not coming.
I'll try Snowest also and I'll see if my dealer can help out today.
Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,019 Posts
Your fitting could be screwed, the late model fitting has a ball and spring in it, acts as a check valve.

I always blow air through them to see if there still functioning.

Wiescos,, the joy of fordged pistons, touchy- touchy..........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I just got back from my dealer. Looks like I may be worried for nothing. He said that the lines to the bearings flow at a very much reduced rate. He said it's not uncommon to let the sled idle for 20 min with the oil pump held wide open to purge the air from the lines to the crank bearings. After about 10 min of running, half of my lines were still filled with air. There is visibly oil coming out of the line that feeds the fuel, so that's good.
Fingers crossed!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,019 Posts
They must have changed something in the pump then, my 02 and 04 pump fill the line on the bearings in 5 min or so on a drill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
I hate to say anything in case something does go wrong for you...........

I recently replaced the oil lines on my sled so they were dry, and clear. I could see the oil work it's way up the PTO bearing lube line, this was on a 03 800 twin 2500 miles. With premix in the tank for break-in, running slightly off idle, oil lever held wide open, you could see the pulses about once a second and it would creep only about a millimeter, maybe less. Took at least 15 mins to fill the line to the far bearing, which made me nervous because the carb lines and the line to the mag bearing filled faster.
Since my lines were new and not yellowed, I continued to watch small bubbles work their way down the line using a piston wash inspection light behind the line. you may be able to see this also. FWIW it sounds like you're OK, however I have not put any miles on my machine, NO SNOW!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Hey fellas, the oil pump "DOES" fail open if there is an internal problem. It is designed this way so no matter what the engine gets oil. an oil pump is a lot cheaper for polaris to replace than a motor. I have all the factory paperwork on this at home from when i worked there. There was a recall on the 97 and some 98 rmk sleds for this problem. Back in those days, I worked for polaris, I saw enough of them come into the shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I hate to say anything in case something does go wrong for you...........

I recently replaced the oil lines on my sled so they were dry, and clear. I could see the oil work it's way up the PTO bearing lube line, this was on a 03 800 twin 2500 miles. With premix in the tank for break-in, running slightly off idle, oil lever held wide open, you could see the pulses about once a second and it would creep only about a millimeter, maybe less. Took at least 15 mins to fill the line to the far bearing, which made me nervous because the carb lines and the line to the mag bearing filled faster.
Since my lines were new and not yellowed, I continued to watch small bubbles work their way down the line using a piston wash inspection light behind the line. you may be able to see this also. FWIW it sounds like you're OK, however I have not put any miles on my machine, NO SNOW![/b]
I'm glad to hear that yours seems the same. I'm going to run mine more today to bleed the line.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top