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in a perfect world yes. but what I believe is happening is this. oil gets in there, with moisture,ice etc. it has a very small vent hole in the cap.and the angle of the tank is on the boarded line of venting at idle anyway. if your sled is tipped to the left a little or the trailer isn't level then its not going to vent anyway. if the pump draws more then 10"water column of vacuum it will never vent until the cap is opened. I have already tested this. with a empty tank with a mity vac. I banged the tank off the work bench and shook it as hard as I could. did not open the vent. and the ball was rattling the whole time. granted this takes a lot of things in combination to cause this. but do you want to gamble with your $12,000 sled? it can happen under the right conditions. the other thing is its causing erratic oil consumption from no venting then venting then not again. if your out west pulling a long shoot at wot the cap is not venting. and its using the most oil at this throttle position. it wouldn't take long to draw a fatal vacuum. maybe all the sleds in the west going down was due to this and nothing else?
 

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I bought a vent kit, and my brand new sled (without adjusting the oil pump) is 55:1.That's after 100 miles in Togwotee.

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In your post of the first ride you stated 55:1 and you where full power most of the time and the RMK sleds could walk around in the same snow at 1/2 power. Am I correct? If you I would say you need to turn up your pump about 1 ~2 turns , A average of 50:1 is good but if you where full power at 55:1 your a little on the low side for my likeing . had this been trail miles at low power and 55:1 I would say your close but not with the pump at full output.
 

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So why not go to the tried and true proven old design, seems like the new style sucks.

If the reason s if the sled is tipped over, WTF a sled is to be upright not upside down tried to solve a stupid problem for 1 or 2 people and now screwed thousands.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So why not go to the tried and true proven old design, seems like the new style sucks.

If the reason s if the sled is tipped over, WTF a sled is to be upright not upside down tried to solve a stupid problem for 1 or 2 people and now screwed thousands.
My sled ends up in compromised positions all the time... different riding styles for all of us.
 

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In your post of the first ride you stated 55:1 and you where full power most of the time and the RMK sleds could walk around in the same snow at 1/2 power. Am I correct? If you I would say you need to turn up your pump about 1 ~2 turns , A average of 50:1 is good but if you where full power at 55:1 your a little on the low side for my likeing . had this been trail miles at low power and 55:1 I would say your close but not with the pump at full output.

Your assumption is correct. Thanks for the info, I will make a small change to it and monitor it again!

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how does warranty play into all this? i have the extended polarisstar. i have 436 miles on my 2013 switch assault 800 and the oil light literally came on putting the sled in the trailer at the end of last season....it seems like it didnt use much oil at all. wouldnt polaris recall this if it was burning up sleds that they're paying to fix? Passo, what does your kit cost? and do you know any exact details of how it affects warranty? i thought about turning my pump up, but i guess i'd rather bring a blown sled to the dealer and have it be 100% where they set it so they cant come back on me..first new sled, first time with a warranty on anything with a motor! just looking to clarify and get help! i'd rather not blow it at all but if it goes i want them to pay to fix it!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
My Vented Cap is $50 shipped in the US, and $55-up shipped to Canada. The warranty issue is exactly why I went with the cap route. This way the sled is not modified at all. If you had a warranty issue simply put the original cap back on before you bring it in to the dealer. No holes to drill, nothing to cover up.
 

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Glad to see others are finding this out. I've been preaching this was an issue back in IQ and IQ RAW days when the cap sat at an even worse angle than the Pro-Ride chassis does. It's pretty scary when you pull your oil line off from the motor and no oil comes out. And if anyone disputes this, then why are there some sleds that have the returning air bubble in the oil supply line. I have even seen air bubbles in the feed lines (oil pump housing to motor) as well.
 

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Friends 2013 proclimb blew cause it ran 50 miles without oil.

My pro burns 1/3rd a tank per full fuel tank. 3 turns on the oil pump.

My dirt bike had a screw in barb with a 1" hose then a little valve on it. May add one to my pro after.


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Update on mine, I have Northstar Performance's vent kit and my oil ratio is still coming out to be about 75:1. Still good insurance I figure and glad I put it on.
 
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