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i am running klotz. amsoil is good also. the shims are behind the adjuster sheave. theres a stack of shims on the backside just take the bolt off to get to them. they come in 3 sizes .030 .060 .090 just add shims to get youyr belt to the correct ride height. i took off a .030 & replaced it with a .060 belt is now a fuzz above the secondary sheave hope this helps.
 

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If you want to treat your new beast to the best, Feed her Ipone. If you can't find Ipone, Doo xps II full synth, Spectro full synth is a world beater as well and is one of the only truly Jaso FC certified oils in the U.S. market. The rest are all pretty much the same. Cat APV isn't all that bad, in fact just like amsoil, Cat does not have access to the chemistry of the propietiery base stock used, meaning both are about equally generic, amsoil leaves that little fact out, but it also doesn't mean its a bad product, just that another lube company makes the base stock, Where as the above 3 mentioned oil develop thier own basetock(Doo oil is developed by Castrol), and therefore they have complete comand of the chemistry. Its also why they cost more as well.
 

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ipone for me !!!! or yes the doo xps is very good too!! and ya buy a few differant sizes, over the year of riding your gona have to adj it a few times,, so its good to have a few sizes with you..
 

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Does anyone know if klotz makes their own basestock? How does it compare to ipone, doo xps, and spectro?[/b]

Yes I do believe Klotz devoloped thier propietiery base stock but i'm not 100% positive. Klotz is a very good oil, and its also available at a nice price. The only concern I've had with Klotz is the fact that it carries a TC-W3 rating. Since its tc-w3 and api tc at the sametime it would be considered a multi purpose oil. Multi purpose oils have closed the gap between themselves and more engine specific specs like api tc or tc-w3 only oils. But even Penzoil spent a considerable amount of money and test time to prove that thier multi purpose tc-w3/api tc oil was a good as thier api tc only oil. What they found is that it is, and isn't at the sametime. The multi purpose oil did outperform the api tc only oil as far as combustion chamber deposits, but didn't fair as well with ring land deposits, not an earth shattering difference, but a difference non the less. To understand this you have to realize that having both an api tc and tc-w3 certs are basically a contridiction in terms, as each rating is for engines at the opposite side of the spectrum. Tc-w3 oils are ASHLESS, contain nearly no detergents but much more rust inhibitors then api tc. Api tc are LOW ASH, contain detergents, and much less rust inhibitors. The ash in the low ash api tc formula is a by product of the non combusted detergents, however it is these same detergents that maintain and keep the ring land clean of deposits. Since a marine outboard(tc-w3 spec) is typically operated at constant lower rpm and has an endless supply of cool coolant, ring land deposits are much less likely to form in that type of engine, hence no need for the deposit causing detergents. Having a deposit free ring land area is crucial in any engine, as the deposits greatly reduce the pistons ability to transfer heat from the piston to the ring then on to the cylinder, thats the problem with using a tc-w3 rated oil in a snowmobile 2 stroke. The higher rpm nature, much higher cylinder temps of a snowmobile engine will in time fill the ring area with burnt up uncombusted carbon, the excess heat builds and compounds the problem until engine failure. This is of course worst case scenario and would be very unlikely with a combined tc-w3/api tc cert. oil, but it again, it will not likely perform to the same level as an api tc only oil.

So in short, use of an api tc/tc-w3 oil will likely reduce combustion chamber deposits and result in a cleaner exhaust valve, as well as less likely hood of plug fouling, but will have more deposits formed at the ever so critical ringland area. An Api tc oil will be the opposite, more combustion chamber deposits and more valve deposits, but will maintain the ring area much better.

Which leads us to racing specific oils(api tc only) which also demonstrate this difference, like amsoil dominator or yamalube R, each will much more quickly cause engine deposits on both the valve and combustion chambers, as even more detergents are in the formula to ensure the ring land stays spotless and able to transfer heat as effectively as possible. These engine will have to be "decarbonized" much more often then even your standard api tc spec. You will never see a racing oil that also carries a tc-w3 rating, as it would surely cause plug fouling issues if used in a marine outboard and will not offer the best possible ring land protection in the race engine.

Klotz in my experience is one of the cleanest oils as it pertains to the exhaust valve, I have run it before for extended periods of time, but never gotten to inspect the ringland area, never needed too, so i'd take that as a good thing. However the next time you think your oil is junk because the valves are goeey and contain deposits, think again, as your ringland area is probably doing very well at expelling piston heat.
 

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Yes I do believe Klotz devoloped thier propietiery base stock but i'm not 100% positive. Klotz is a very good oil, and its also available at a nice price. The only concern I've had with Klotz is the fact that it carries a TC-W3 rating. Since its tc-w3 and api tc at the sametime it would be considered a multi purpose oil. Multi purpose oils have closed the gap between themselves and more engine specific specs like api tc or tc-w3 only oils. But even Penzoil spent a considerable amount of money and test time to prove that thier multi purpose tc-w3/api tc oil was a good as thier api tc only oil. What they found is that it is, and isn't at the sametime. The multi purpose oil did outperform the api tc only oil as far as combustion chamber deposits, but didn't fair as well with ring land deposits, not an earth shattering difference, but a difference non the less. To understand this you have to realize that having both an api tc and tc-w3 certs are basically a contridiction in terms, as each rating is for engines at the opposite side of the spectrum. Tc-w3 oils are ASHLESS, contain nearly no detergents but much more rust inhibitors then api tc. Api tc are LOW ASH, contain detergents, and much less rust inhibitors. The ash in the low ash api tc formula is a by product of the non combusted detergents, however it is these same detergents that maintain and keep the ring land clean of deposits. Since a marine outboard(tc-w3 spec) is typically operated at constant lower rpm and has an endless supply of cool coolant, ring land deposits are much less likely to form in that type of engine, hence no need for the deposit causing detergents. Having a deposit free ring land area is crucial in any engine, as the deposits greatly reduce the pistons ability to transfer heat from the piston to the ring then on to the cylinder, thats the problem with using a tc-w3 rated oil in a snowmobile 2 stroke. The higher rpm nature, much higher cylinder temps of a snowmobile engine will in time fill the ring area with burnt up uncombusted carbon, the excess heat builds and compounds the problem until engine failure. This is of course worst case scenario and would be very unlikely with a combined tc-w3/api tc cert. oil, but it again, it will not likely perform to the same level as an api tc only oil.

So in short, use of an api tc/tc-w3 oil will likely reduce combustion chamber deposits and result in a cleaner exhaust valve, as well as less likely hood of plug fouling, but will have more deposits formed at the ever so critical ringland area. An Api tc oil will be the opposite, more combustion chamber deposits and more valve deposits, but will maintain the ring area much better.

Which leads us to racing specific oils(api tc only) which also demonstrate this difference, like amsoil dominator or yamalube R, each will much more quickly cause engine deposits on both the valve and combustion chambers, as even more detergents are in the formula to ensure the ring land stays spotless and able to transfer heat as effectively as possible. These engine will have to be "decarbonized" much more often then even your standard api tc spec. You will never see a racing oil that also carries a tc-w3 rating, as it would surely cause plug fouling issues if used in a marine outboard and will not offer the best possible ring land protection in the race engine.

Klotz in my experience is one of the cleanest oils as it pertains to the exhaust valve, I have run it before for extended periods of time, but never gotten to inspect the ringland area, never needed too, so i'd take that as a good thing. However the next time you think your oil is junk because the valves are goeey and contain deposits, think again, as your ringland area is probably doing very well at expelling piston heat.[/b]
very interesting, learned a lot from this post. are you some sort of chemical engineer?
 
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